Nitrox cylinder bands

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I like them
 
I believe that NetDoc concluded that a flash explosion occurred in these two incidents
Close... but explosion is not the term I would use. The higher the oxygen content, the lower the autoignition point. Add adiabatic heat due to compression and any contaminant in a cylinder may partially combust. The most common problem with a contaminated cylinder is not conflagration, but poisoning.

To add to that, neither of the facilities who filled my tanks had any other reports of sick divers, meaning that they weren't the cause of the problem. The problem was confined to my tanks, which had been borrowed before hand. The first one I tested on an automotive 3 gas analyzer. It pegged the oxygen and CO meter but barely registered any CO2. Consequently, I don't like PP blending and I don't lend out my primary tanks anymore... unless I'm present.
 
. A properly set up continuous blending system is actually MUCH more cost effective than PP blending. With a blending system, which you can build for under $300 with an O2 analyzer attached to it..
Can't wait for the specifics.
 
Not true. You can create most any 'nonstandard' mix from banked 32 and any non-standard mix from banked 40 without the problems associated with putting pure O2 into an unclean tank.

I suppose, but my point was that there's probably not really a compelling reason to blend/bank the 32 or 40 in the first place... if no one ever wants 32 or 40.

Ultimately, if a shop needs to go to the cost/hassle of having a full-blown PP blending system anyway... I'm guessing it doesn't make much sense to have a continuous blending system as well.
 
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Ultimately, if a shop needs to go to the cost/hassle of having a full-blown PP blending system anyway...
What cost is that? A t-bottle of O2? A gauge? PP blending is an 'entry level' blending system. There's nothing "full-blown" about it all and it's incredibly wasteful. With banked 40% and air you can easily top off any existing NitrOx tank without having to bleed it all the way down. Many shops here in Florida charge you by the cubic foot and not on a complete fill.
 
I keep my NOx bank at 36% as that is what I use most locally. I can blend from that with my air bank to make any mix between 21 and 36%. I have a booster on the wall for any other mixes that may be needed. I don't see a reason to PP recreational nitrox, it just doesn't make sense financially or timewise.
 
Force-e in WPB only does pp fills for nitrox and I think that is true with all their shops including the one in Pompano but not certain. Another shop in WPB that I use for O2 fills will do pp if you need a mix they don't bank and it will cost you more per fill.

I was in the pompano shop today and asked out of curiosity. Guy said they bank 36 and then blend from that if someone wants something different. But I don't know if that qualifies as "partial pressure" technically.

Your safety is your primary job. Be proactive in this regard. Ask to see their operation. Ask to see their clean air certificate. Is it over six months old? How do the compressor and fill banks look? Do they have a time tracking method for their filters? Do they have replacement filters in stock? Not only do you have a right to be nosy, you owe it to your family. We own two CO analyzers and three O2 analyzers and travel with them for this very reason.

It's Dixie Divers in Deerfield beach. They have a good reputation with regards to nitrox with the OSHA exemption thing, etc. so I haven't felt the need to ask all that.
 
I use the standard nitrox bands however if I ordered more from airspeed I would probally replace them with the this isnt your tank stickers however here is the VIP sticker I use on all my tanks. I O2 clean all my tanks at VIP time and only punch the premix sticker if it is a tank like my pony which will get filled by any compressor my main tanks I try to keep as O2 Clean as I can get since I PP mix nitrox in them.

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Sorry if this has been mentioned before..

Nitrox cleaned and O2 cleaned are two different things.

For some shops they could be the same, but generally 'Nitrox ready/clean/compatible' are up to (MAX) 40% O2 content

They might not use O2 compatible lube, o rings or check thoroughly while cleaning valves.... So NO PP blending!

**this now has become a check with me when I get my tanks inspected, I drain them, crack off the valve and inspect the tank quickly and the I ring, then get it filled .... Had a few shops "O2 clean" tanks that had surface rust and wrong O rings when I pulled then apart to change out valves on the first fill**


As for tank wrappers, as an individual owner of personal tanks, whatever you want. As long as you have something to show for that the tank/valve has been cleaned for Nitrox or O2 and a current analysis of what is in the tank(s).

As for a commercial operation with a 'fleet' of tanks for rent/charter, then some sort of marking system should be in place (painted or wrapped tanks).

Same thing with dive boats where tanks are provided (ie Caribbean). No one might know if anything other than air is in a clean AL80, but that one that is a different colour, or has a band on it, might contain something other than Air (including He).

Joe Random isn't going to be renting your personal tanks, so there is little worry about what kind of marker to show what is in them (to Joe Random), but if you provide a service of renting tanks with Air, Nitrox and He, you better well have a system in place, otherwise no one would know what is what with no markings (staff and customers).


My tanks have up to 4 stickers/markings on them (only deco bottles with MOD)

1 - Vis sticker with o2 clean on bottom/inside (doubles)
2 - My initials (lower outside)
3 - MOD (21m, 6m) (higher outside)
4 - Daily analysis tape (neck)

And for sake of thoroughness, my drysuit inflate has a warning sticker (and Vis) saying that there is most likely anything but air inside the AL6, and you will die if you try to breath it.


BRad
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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