Newbie builder has some questions...

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midnite135

Contributor
Messages
111
Reaction score
2
Location
Rowlett, TX
# of dives
50 - 99
I have decided to take on the task of creating my 1st canister light and I was hoping I could ask you guys for some advice as this is very much a learning process for me.

For starters I have picked up airspeeds book, its been extremely helpful and I am maybe 2/3 through it.

I have pretty much decided for an initial project size of the can is less of an issue and I am trying to be cost effective. I am looking at modifying a maglight an using MR-16 50w Halogen lamps.

I have selected SLA batteries and I think I will be using a pair of 12v 7.5Ah in parallel. The hypotenuse of the battery I have selected is right around 4.5 inches and I was hoping I might get some recommendations on where I might get the pipe. Home Depot, Lowes and McMaster seem to carry mostly 6" pipe and while I find references to 5'" thats a closer fit I am having trouble locating it. Any recommendations on what I should look for?

I also have a trickier question regarding batteries. From my understanding you can overdrive a lamp by providing a slightly higher voltage while increasing the drain on the battery and decreasing the life of the lamp. When using NiMH batteries lets say they are 1.2v and 13Ah, you can run 10 of them in series to get 12v @ 14Ah, but if you add another you can get 13.2v @ 14Ah thus overdriving the bulb. I have not seen people attempt to do this with SLA and I was hoping I could get a better understanding of why... For my example lets assume 3 SLA batteries, 2 of them being 12v/7.5Ah and one being a 2v/5Ah what effect would wiring the 2 identicle batteries in Parallel to get 12v/15Ah and then wiring in the additional 2v/5Ah battery have. Forgive me if this is a stupid question but I would appreciate someone enlightening me. Feel free to correct my assumptions ) I tried asking an employee at batteries plus and I think I stumped him, he wasnt sure if it would work, or drain the batteries evenly or what.

If it would work, I think I would need to make this seperate battery removable so that I could charge it seperately, would this give me a brighter light for the charge on the 5Ah and would it drain evenly or would the 5Ah die 1st?

While I am asking... for the maglight mod considering no glass cover on the mr16, any idea what glass lens dimensions I need cut if ordering from my local glass house. Thicknesses and diameter... and will I need more than 1 piece, if so should I bond them? Or is there a better way to prevent it from rattling around? It seems I need one with enough diameter to make the seal, and another behind it with enough diameter and thickness to sit between the outside glass and the MR16 to prevent it shifting in the lighthead and rattling around.

Hopefully down the line I can get into something a bit fancier but I figured I would go this route while I am learning. Thanks for any input you can provide.

Josh
 
I have made mine using 10 1.2V 10000ma batteries in series.. put in two pieces of 2"pvc pipe.. these are side by side.. a switch in one side the light out of the other. This set up straps onto your scuba tank using a cam strap. I use 50W mr16 bulb with an MR16 socket. The ends are sealed with 2"pvc end caps. you recharged the batteries through the lighthead...

Here are some pictures..
 

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If you want pictures of the finished light please ask and I will send them to you. The burn time I get from a 50W bulb is 2.5hrs
 
What do you think of the maglite head?

I have a post on TDS but most think I should rethink the maghead and go to HID.

I am weighing my options, but I figured this project a good 1st light. I would love to hear your input and your welcome to send the pictures to midnite135@gmail.com I would like to see them.

Thanks!

Josh
 
I will send some more pictures to you tomorrow.. I like the maglight head.. I had some glass lenses cut for me at a local stain glass place.. and then got the orings from a local hydrolic company.. I will take some pictures of the whole set up.. My light bezel does need to be taped before the dive I use electrical tape, as I made a few mistakes in the making from the 1st this is my 2nd and it works great.... Ask away.. and I will answer as best I can.
 
The canister mounts on the tank with the cam strap. the switch protector is made out of PVC that was heated and bent to fit.. then my buddy glued them in place.. The cord runs out the top of the canister and runs over my shoulder down my right arm and I hold the light in my right hand. the wire on this is a little long oh well.....

Anywho.. this is just another idea for you. My dive buddy thought up this design and ti works great. He had his light head flood at 130 ft and it still worked. His son had been playing with it out of the water and it broke the seal between the lexan lense and the bezel. I used a glass lense and he wanted to try the lexan. This light I wouldn't leave on long before going in the water as it does get HOT fast.

Any questions feel free to ask. drop a PM

The battery housing is in rough shape been used alot. My pony mounts on my right and my canister on my left..... works great and I am well balanced.
 

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Thats pretty nice bud. Thanks for getting back to me with the pictures.

How do you have the batteries configured?

Josh
 
five on one side five on the other... in series and only two wires runninf between the pipes.. one at the bottom and one at the top......
 
There is a picture of the wiring sequence up in an earlier post.. if you can't open it I will email it to you directly
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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