New Genesis 2.0

[Jon Nellis]

By "earliest opportunity" we mean, don't go home and leave it in the garage for a month without putting some charge back into it for storage. If you were to run it at continuous full or nearly full power for an entire dive until it cut out (highly unlikely, but some have done it) you would want to wait for the battery to cool a bit before recharging. An hour is a guideline and the time between when it cuts out and you exit the water, get out of your gear, have a snack, get to to an outlet to power the charger, etc, is probably at least an hour, unless you manage to do that on a live-aboard with power that you normally plug into after a dive. But, to dive it like a mad man, so hard that you completely kill a fully charged battery in under an hour, the crew of the live-aboard will probably ban your use of the DPV for the rest of the trip and not let you recharge it.

The voltages in the Sentry manual are for the old dual battery Genesis 1.0. I need to update that manual.

Cheers,
Jon

 

[Texasguy]

Would you know the motor efficiency percentage for Genesis? For example, Bonex is listing their 96% achievement almost every chance they get, calling it "astounding".

 

[Jon Nellis]

Listing motor efficiency is pointless, as it is not uniform throughout the RPM range and does not tell you anything about the total system efficiency. It's hand waving, so you don't look at the relevant performance. A high efficiency motor spinning a low efficiency propeller through a high drag shaft seal is not a high efficiency "system." The ultimate question is how efficiently does it convert electrical power into thrust. Our power/thrust curve is in our manual and I've posted it on here before, in other threads. If you can get a curve from another manufacturer, that is your initial comparison, but I have yet to see any other manufacturer publish their data. Additionally, static thrust does not linearly convert to dynamic thrust, because of the different prop and nozzle designs, so YMMV.

 

[rjack321]

Kydex is actually a lot "harder" on a Shore scale. The reason the clear tubing is so difficult to damage, is that its notch sensitivity is extremely low, but you'd have to have an advanced understanding of polymer failure modes to know how that works.

The trigger wire tubing on my Genesis 1200 is nearly a decade old, has not a single nick or scratch, and hasn't even yellowed from sun or age. Whatever it is, it has absolutely withstood the test of time.

 

[Texasguy]

2.1 arrived today safe and sound.

A few questions:

1) The metallic feet on Sentry, my concern that they might scratch the body.

2) The continuing speed selector has corners that are somewhat sharp. Do you use your thumb joint to position the lever? I tried to use the soft part of the tip of the thumb and corners did leave some painful impressions. My concern that in water it might be more noticeable, as skin is softer.

3) On Sentry the number that shows immediate wattage (not w/h), often gets stuck on 3w (instead of 0w) when the motor is not running.

4) Could you publish the resting voltages from 100% to 10%?

5) For the salt water trimming, do I use 2 pouches?

And, it would be helpful if the 2 big body pieces had some marking at the lips, when joining the pieces, to quickly see how they should come together by aligning the markings.

But, I am very excited. Don't let my questions make it feel like I am grouchy.

 

[Ouvea]

@Texasguy :

I don't know the buoyancy with the Sentry mounted to the DPV. Meaning no disrespect to @Jon Nellis and not disparaging the Sentry, but I bought the Genesis so I wouldn't have to worry about range, thrust, flooding, reliabity, etc. That's the other guy's problem...

However, i have mine setup with a makeshit 2 inch stiff webbing handle held by a large diameter hose clamp. I have a tow chord and a tow leash (2 medium size bolt snaps) with a Suunto SK8 compass at the nose. Hence I have two bolt snaps. With the 1lb weight that John provide, it's neutral-neutral negative if that makes sense. I did clock the weight so that the handle sits at 3 or 9. Look from the nose, it's at 9 oclock. Look from the shroud, it's at 3 oclock. With the Sentry mounted to the hull, I think you'll be a wee bit too negative. Do not use the two weight pouches in salt water. Your G2.1 will sink immediately. At the shoreline, no problem. In 200ft of water, you'll cry lots...

As far as clocking the hull correctly each time. Use the logos on the side in relation to the arms that hold the propeller shroud. Otherwise, use some White-Out or a marker to make some alignment guides.

In regards to the variable throttle. I use dry-gloves so I have not noticed any discomfort. I usually push the lever with the thumb so it doesn't sit on the tip of the lever. That variable throttle is beyond awesome. Been in currents where I could adjust the throttle to get my through it or simply nudge against it.

Show us how you finally dialed in the DPV. It does help other G2.1 owners. Might even give Jon some ideas on possible revisions.

O.

 

[Texasguy]

Xtras' style handle, brought to you by Harbor Freight:

Texasguy mod

 

[Jon Nellis]

2.1 arrived today safe and sound.

A few questions:

1) The metallic feet on Sentry, my concern that they might scratch the body.

2) The continuing speed selector has corners that are somewhat sharp. Do you use your thumb joint to position the lever? I tried to use the soft part of the tip of the thumb and corners did leave some painful impressions. My concern that in water it might be more noticeable, as skin is softer.

3) On Sentry the number that shows immediate wattage (not w/h), often gets stuck on 3w (instead of 0w) when the motor is not running.

4) Could you publish the resting voltages from 100% to 10%?

5) For the salt water trimming, do I use 2 pouches?

And, it would be helpful if the 2 big body pieces had some marking at the lips, when joining the pieces, to quickly see how they should come together by aligning the markings.

But, I am very excited. Don't let my questions make it feel like I am grouchy.

#1 They will not rub through the hard anodizing.

#2 You are the first to mention that, but feel free to round the corners off if it feels better. The lever resistance will decrease a bit after a few dives.

#3 The motor controller pulls about 3 watts of quiescent power when the motor is not running, Perfect!

#4 I'll have to get that updated in the manual, but it will be a few weeks.

#5 No, you will not need both pouches with the Sentry, maybe half a pouch front and back.

#6 The slots for the lock strips line up with the struts at 3 and 9 o'clock.

 

[Texasguy]

The manual says to use only a specific lube for the rings. I did see a small packet included. Say, if once it gets opened, it is like a tooth paste without a screw cup, I am not sure it can be contained well after the first use.

Can one use a regular "run of the mill" silicone paste on the rings? I have different kinds and they are in better packages that can be closed down.

 

[Jon Nellis]

The manual says to use only a specific lube for the rings. I did see a small packet included. Say, if once it gets opened, it is like a tooth paste without a screw cup, I am not sure it can be contained well after the first use.

Can one use a regular "run of the mill" silicone paste on the rings? I have different kinds and they are in better packages that can be closed down.

Do not use any silicone lube with plasticizers (that rules out a lot of them) They are bad for the nose connector. It should say NSF 51 and NSF 61 (i.e. Food Safe)


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