New diver BP/W and weight distribution questions for cold water

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

@Eric Sedletzky, are you no longer manufacturing your Freedom Plate (in SS or in Al)? I've been recommending--proselytizing, really--the SS to people.

Also, I wish you would offer a ZKY version of the (VDH-style) old-school flat plate for double-hose regulator diving--in SS (especially) and in Al.

rx7diver
I’m taking a break right now on making plates until this stupid plague is over. Steel prices are stupid right now and it wouldn’t be worth it. Not only that, my other business is so busy I have no time.
Why isn’t Bryan making VDH plates? That’s kinda his gig.
 
I’m taking a break right now on making plates until this stupid plague is over. Steel prices are stupid right now and it wouldn’t be worth it. Not only that, my other business is so busy I have no time.
Why isn’t Bryan making VDH plates? That’s kinda his gig.
I think VDH is taking a break right now, too. Supplier issues, I think. I dive (and absolutely love) their Al flat plate right now. (Just finished setting it up for my baby doubles and single-outlet, solid-bar manifold, in fact.) However, I would like a SS version, too--which has never been offered by VDH, I think.

rx7diver
 
Hey everyone, thanks for all the awesome feedback! Based on what I've heard, here is my plan moving forward:
  • Pick up the 30 lbs single tank DGX BPW setup with a steel plate with a few trim pockets to give me some flexibility in how I distribute weight (I'll hold off on ditchable pockets for now)
  • Get a rubber weight belt (thinking something like this) to try if that works better than my previous weight belt experiences.
  • Start renting HP100 tanks instead of the AL80s

Two follow-up questions:
  • If I wanted to add weight to the backplate as mentioned above, what are my best options? P-weights?(those seem to be a bit hard to find)
  • Is it worth investing in my own weights, or is this just something everyone rents?
Thanks again!
Georg
If you’re handy you can make your own plate weights by casting some lead flat bars that could be bolted on each side of the center channel on your plate. A company called DSS (no longer in business) used to make something like that. It would be easy to do using a 2”x 1” aluminum channel for a mould about 12-“-14” long with the ends blocked off. Level it out on a metal bench and fill it up with lead. Pop it out when cool, locate the weights where you want them on the sides of the plate, drill your holes and bolt them up. Presto!
You could probably get about 8 lbs. total, 4 on each side. That would significantly reduce the amount on your belt. I still advocate something on a belt though.
 
If you’re handy you can make your own plate weights by casting some lead flat bars that could be bolted on each side of the center channel on your plate. A company called DSS (no longer in business) used to make something like that. It would be easy to do using a 2”x 1” aluminum channel for a mould about 12-“-14” long with the ends blocked off. Level it out on a metal bench and fill it up with lead. Pop it out when cool, locate the weights where you want them on the sides of the plate, drill your holes and bolt them up. Presto!
You could probably get about 8 lbs. total, 4 on each side. That would significantly reduce the amount on your belt. I still advocate something on a belt though.
That seems doable. Any safety considerations for working with molten lead?
 
That seems doable. Any safety considerations for working with molten lead?
Wear an organic vapor cartridge mask, not an N-95 that won’t work, and a Covid cloth mask would be totally useless.
Wear eye protection.
Wear heavy leather gloves and a long sleeve work shirt.
You can melt the lead into an old metal pot that is heavy duty enough to take the heat and weight of lead. Use an outdoor stove like a Costco heavy duty camp stove capable of providing enough BTU to melt the lead. As soon as the lead melts it will be ready to pour. Do not overheat the lead to the point that it begins to boil.
Do not drip sweat or get any water of any kind into the molten lead pot because it will explode!
You can use old hard weights, fishing weights, lead shot used for reloading, or old style tire weights. Some lead is mixed with zinc but it’s fine to use.
Be careful!!
Good luck.
 
Wear an organic vapor cartridge mask, not an N-95 that won’t work, and a Covid cloth mask would be totally useless.
Wear eye protection.
Wear heavy leather gloves and a long sleeve work shirt.
You can melt the lead into an old metal pot that is heavy duty enough to take the heat and weight of lead. Use an outdoor stove like a Costco heavy duty camp stove capable of providing enough BTU to melt the lead. As soon as the lead melts it will be ready to pour. Do not overheat the lead to the point that it begins to boil.
Do not drip sweat or get any water of any kind into the molten lead pot because it will explode!
You can use old hard weights, fishing weights, lead shot used for reloading, or old style tire weights. Some lead is mixed with zinc but it’s fine to use.
Be careful!!
Good luck.
Thanks! This seems like a fun project! Any reason not to just get some SS bar/sheet stock and bolt it onto the plate to add some weight instead? (not quite as dense as lead, but seems like a lower effort way to add some weight)
 
Have you got any lead flashing

full
 
Thanks! This seems like a fun project! Any reason not to just get some SS bar/sheet stock and bolt it onto the plate to add some weight instead? (not quite as dense as lead, but seems like a lower effort way to add some weight)
I suppose you could use stainless, but lead is more available in scrap form and cheaper, plus it’s heavier, softer, and easier to form.
 
Hey everyone, thanks for all of the feedback!

Closing the loop from my side: I went with the DGX single tank wing package and tried it out this last weekend at Breakwater. It worked really well! I was able to get the hang of it pretty quickly. Ended up using 14 lbs of lead with a steel tank. I'm still probably a bit over-weighted, and I'll keep working on dialing in my weighting and trim as I get more experience. Once I get a better understanding of how I want to distribute the weight, I'll work on making some custom weights to attach to the backplate.

Only thing that I still have to figure out is how to adjust the crotch strap to keep the back plate from riding up behind my head.
 
Tighten the crotch strap so it seems a bit to tight when gearing up...
It's normal for the waist band to drop down abit because the crotch strap doesn't seem long enough... when you are in the water it will loosen up a bit. Then if you need tighten up you waist belt...

I am use to having heavy steel cylinders with my ss BP,
but when I travel and need to use 80 aluminum's I have cam strap pouches that I use to help the aluminum tank become a steel tank.. helps feel more normal...
but I still hate having a single tank... (love my double steel 72s)
I don't travel much,, but I am thinking to go sidemount next time,
I like the 2 tanks, gives me options..
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom