Info New Dive Rite lights - CX3 and ??

[PEDiver]

The one thing I like about my LX20+ is that it has a constant output driver for 1500 lumens with ~2 hours of burn time. The DGX and OrchTorch lights have longer burn times (obviously) but not at a constant output. Probably doesn't matter for most people / most types of diving, but I just personally prefer it. I also have a lot of 18650 batteries so it's easy to bring extras and swap them between dives if it's necessary. The LX20+ makes that super simple to do.

 

[stuartv]

It appears that the LX20+ is now no longer even available from DGX.

The DGX can light is super inexpensive! Very impressive. I have always found DGX-branded quality to be very good.

But, I also want my primary to be constant output. I am fine with tapering output for a backup - which I should never use, but if I do I'll take the tapering output as a tradeoff for the longer burntime.

The DGX can light just looks like something that will sell to people who "are going to go towards cave and will eventually need a can light." They will probably sell a bunch of them.

For air travel to cave dive (which I have never yet done), I would most likely take and be fine with the FX40. I'm looking forward to trying it. It claims 600 minutes at 490 lumens (Medium). With its 4 degree beam, I'm guessing that 490 lumens will actually seem pretty bright in a cave. I mean, my DGX700 lights seem really bright and they are an 8 degree beam and only claimed to be 700 lumens. We shall see.

 

[mr_v]

... especially without the battery cartridge (and it's plague of issues) like the LX20+

Interesting that you've mentioned cartridge issues. What did you run into?

I think the cartridge is too small for the batteries included with the light. I switched to Orbtronic and had zero issues. On a typical dive day, I'll swap the batteries for a second dive. After a conversation with @stuartv , it does not seem like the new light will support easy battery replacement capabilities.

 

[macado]

Interesting that you've mentioned cartridge issues. What did you run into?

I think the cartridge is too small for the batteries included with the light. I switched to Orbtronic and had zero issues. On a typical dive day, I'll swap the batteries for a second dive. After a conversation with @stuartv , it does not seem like the new light will support easy battery replacement capabilities.

So the Xtar batteries included with the DiveRite LX20+ are slightly smaller than some other 18650 batteries as you discovered. DiveRite sells a 3d printed spacer to allow you to insert batteries that are few mm longer. I can't remember if it was included withe lights or if they sent it to me.

Even still, if there is "play" in the battery housing and you whack the light, it will temporarily lose connection and the light will shut off. Ask me how I know this? It's pretty awesome when it happens while solo laying line in a very silty area. DiveRite has a little blue spacer thing that puts me pressure on the battery cartridge and effectively fixes the issue.

There is also enough spacing that whacking the line can sometimes cause the batteries to fall out of alignment is there is not enough tension.

I'm a big fan of the LX20+ light. Despite this but it's is/was not perfect. Adding the spacer solved 90% of my issues.

 

[mr_v]

So the Xtar batteries included with the DiveRite LX20+ are slightly smaller than some other 18650 batteries as you discovered. DiveRite sells a 3d printed spacer to allow you to insert batteries that are few mm longer. I can't remember if it was included withe lights or if they sent it to me.

Even still, if there is "play" in the battery housing and you whack the light, it will temporarily lose connection and the light will shut off. Ask me how I know this? It's pretty awesome when it happens while solo laying line in a very silty area. DiveRite has a little blue spacer thing that puts me pressure on the battery cartridge and effectively fixes the issue.

There is also enough spacing that whacking the line can sometimes cause the batteries to fall out of alignment is there is not enough tension.

I'm a big fan of the LX20+ light. Despite this but it's is/was not perfect. Adding the spacer solved 90% of my issues.

Wow. Your experience is totally different from mine.

XTAR batteries included with the light were larger than expected. I had to go to Orbtronic to get the right-sized batteries. I did it on day 1 and never had any issues.

Stuart and I talked about light packaging in general. I wish DR did not include the cheap chargers, cases, and other irrelevant items with the light or gave customers an option to buy a bare light. It is about the environment and not savings. Most of the fluff goes to my trash can.

 

[macado]

Give me a second and I'll dig out one of my LX20+ lights. Does your battery cartridge have the black spacer installed? I assume there might have been various machining tolerances. Do you have the blue spacer installed in the back of your light?

 

[mr_v]

Give me a second and I'll dig out one of my LX20+ lights. Does your battery cartridge have the black spacer installed? I assume there might have been various machining tolerances. Do you have the blue spacer installed in the back of your light?

I don't see any spacers.

Once I switched to Orbtronic, I got a ton of batteries and labeled them in sets. I'd use set 1 for dive 1, set 2 for dive 2, then recharge at night with an 8 battery power-outlet powered charger. Takes about 1hr at the most. In fact, I am so happy with the LX20+ battery setup, I do not want to lose it. Hence, I am hesitating pulling a trigger on a new, better light, that makes battery replacement in the field harder than necessary.

 

[PEDiver]

Even still, if there is "play" in the battery housing and you whack the light, it will temporarily lose connection and the light will shut off. Ask me how I know this? It's pretty awesome when it happens while solo laying line in a very silty area. DiveRite has a little blue spacer thing that puts me pressure on the battery cartridge and effectively fixes the issue.

This has happened to me as well, including turning off and on in a tighter passage with a sketchy line. I added an oring to the back to force the spring-loaded connector pins to engage better. No issues since doing that fix.

 

[Underwater Tourist]

On my recent trip, I got the same issue with lx20+ battery pack being too loose in the body of the light causing the pack to disconnect and shut off the light. Had to swim out 1h on the back up light

When I checked the light, it looks like there is room for an insert at the back, so I just assumed I must have lost it at some point. But it sounds like some of you guys don't have it either? @PEDiver @mr_v @macado

And about 18650s, the stock ones that come with BX2s are too tall and can cause BX2 to remain on even if you twist it off to the point that the light head is almost coming off. XTAR 18650 are slightly shorter and work better. No issues with XTARs 18650 in the LX20+ tho.

 

[PEDiver]

On my recent trip, I got the same issue with lx20+ battery pack being too loose in the body of the light causing the pack to disconnect and shut off the light. Had to swim out 1h on the back up light

Really inspires confidence in the light, right? I have had a number of issues with all of my Dive Rite lights, including having to swim out on backups because of the connector pins breaking. One of these days I will upgrade...

When I checked the light, it looks like there is room for an insert at the back, so I just assumed I must have lost it at some point. But it sounds like some of you guys don't have it either? @PEDiver @mr_v @macado

Mine never came with any insert. But you can use a rubber gasket or an oring on top of the battery pack to sandwich it to the protruding part on the cap in your picture. That's the easiest fix I've found.