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New Compressor Owner
- Thread starter SheepdogShaun
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SurfLung
Contributor
Intake Filter Is Important
- One of the earlier posts said the intake filter isn't necessary because the other filtration assures good air. BUT the intake filter also keeps dust from getting into the compressor and wearing out the machinery. It's important!
P.S. Congratulations on scoring such a good deal on your compressor!
- One of the earlier posts said the intake filter isn't necessary because the other filtration assures good air. BUT the intake filter also keeps dust from getting into the compressor and wearing out the machinery. It's important!
P.S. Congratulations on scoring such a good deal on your compressor!
OP
SheepdogShaun
Registered
OP
SheepdogShaun
Registered
Having a hard time getting this little subaru motor to start. The compressor guy wanted to sell me a Honda replacement for $380 plus install.
If I replace the motor completely, I'd love to go with a diesel since both my boat and my truck are both diesel already. I've seen the units that have the Yanmar L70 motors but I wasn't sure if there was a rpm difference and would I need a different pulley size? Just not sure about spending a bunch of time and money trying to get the subaru going if a replacement is fairly cheap and more reliable.
If I replace the motor completely, I'd love to go with a diesel since both my boat and my truck are both diesel already. I've seen the units that have the Yanmar L70 motors but I wasn't sure if there was a rpm difference and would I need a different pulley size? Just not sure about spending a bunch of time and money trying to get the subaru going if a replacement is fairly cheap and more reliable.
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Are you using E-15 gas? It's fine for cars, but I never allow it in small engines.
OP
SheepdogShaun
Registered
SurfLung
Contributor
If money is no object, you can buy a new engine of the same H.P., RPM, and Shaft (if you research it well)... Better yet, buy a brand new Subaru of the same model and just swap it in. If you don't get the same specs, you may have to spend some time hunting down the right pulley or get an adjustable one and laser rpm reader.
Subaru are reputed to make good engines. So personally, I would want to get the original running... And, maybe enjoy the learning process. I have an old Briggs and Stratton 1980s engine on my little Aerotecnica MCH-6. It would sputter to life if I took out the spark plug, squirted some gas in the cylinder, replaced the plug and pulled the cord. But it died as soon as the squirt burned up. So, I had a fuel problem... A clog, a leak, or a pump issue.
- I started by cleaning the gas tank with vinegar and shaking it with sheet metal screws. Holy cow it came out shiney bright steel inside and the sheet metal screws had all of the chrome plating stripped off. While I was there, I discovered a screen filter in the tank and cleaned that. Added new fuel but it still wouldn't start.
- Next I looked at the gas line to the fuel pump and noticed it was loose enough to slide on and off pretty easily. So I zip-tied the connections good and tight to seal them and THAT gave the fuel a better seal for suction (I think). Anyway, I got it to start and run for awhile after choking. But it still died.
- Finally, I bought a replacement diaphragm kit from Briggs and Stratton... This replaced two gaskets and the diaphragm that is actually the fuel pump. This time I fired it up and it ran great. I now run Aircraft gas in this and I think that stuff is probably cleaning up the fuel system more and more every time I run it.
- Getting the engine going may not be your cup of tea BUT you may just be talking to the wrong guy who services your compressor. He knows your compressor but maybe doesn't know anything about small engines. Have you considered taking it to a small engine repair service?
Subaru are reputed to make good engines. So personally, I would want to get the original running... And, maybe enjoy the learning process. I have an old Briggs and Stratton 1980s engine on my little Aerotecnica MCH-6. It would sputter to life if I took out the spark plug, squirted some gas in the cylinder, replaced the plug and pulled the cord. But it died as soon as the squirt burned up. So, I had a fuel problem... A clog, a leak, or a pump issue.
- I started by cleaning the gas tank with vinegar and shaking it with sheet metal screws. Holy cow it came out shiney bright steel inside and the sheet metal screws had all of the chrome plating stripped off. While I was there, I discovered a screen filter in the tank and cleaned that. Added new fuel but it still wouldn't start.
- Next I looked at the gas line to the fuel pump and noticed it was loose enough to slide on and off pretty easily. So I zip-tied the connections good and tight to seal them and THAT gave the fuel a better seal for suction (I think). Anyway, I got it to start and run for awhile after choking. But it still died.
- Finally, I bought a replacement diaphragm kit from Briggs and Stratton... This replaced two gaskets and the diaphragm that is actually the fuel pump. This time I fired it up and it ran great. I now run Aircraft gas in this and I think that stuff is probably cleaning up the fuel system more and more every time I run it.
- Getting the engine going may not be your cup of tea BUT you may just be talking to the wrong guy who services your compressor. He knows your compressor but maybe doesn't know anything about small engines. Have you considered taking it to a small engine repair service?
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Oops, I meant E-85. Most stations around here sell E-90 to E-85, but there are a couple that sell pure gasoline. I use the pure stuff in small engines. I wish that all cities over 100K and all of southern California sold only E-15 to cars to help reduce the smog they produce as it causes so much damage to plants & trees, making the Grand Canyon difficult to view, etc.
SurfLung offered some great ideas. I'd take it to a good mechanic.
Namreg 58
Contributor
If the Subaru engine hasn't been started for quite a while, the fuel in the float bowl has either turned to a gel or crystallized.
Remove the bolt holding the float bowl to the Carby and clean up the bowl of any fuel residue. Next push out the float pivot pin and lower the float and pin valve carefully taking note of how it fits back in after clean up. Try not to bend the tab on the float that locates the pin valve.
Good luck.
Linweaver
Registered
I am a physician that has cared for many patients poisoned by carbon monoxide, including from small gas-powered motors. I echo the comments about the dangers of CO. It is wise to check air from any compressor for CO and detectors exist to do this. Death happened to a diver near Cabo years ago from CO in a dive tank. Years ago my department did a study where we measured content of gases by local dive shops and in one of 15 shops, and on only one day, had 35 ppm CO in the compressed air.
If using a portable compressor, be sure to have the air intake many feet, and upwind away from the exhaust, and monitor CO with a detector periodically near the intake, as well as in the tank after it is filled.
The Bauer filter has an option to have a catalyst that converts CO to CO2. I do not know how effective that is, and suggest not relying only on that filter to have zero CO in breathing gas.
Incidentally, some on this forum might have interest: I have a RIX SA-6G oil-less compressor for sale. Very nice unit, few hours. It was used for remote diving in Baja.
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