I like to take my regs apart after every dive trip, may be excesive but I like to keep it clean in there. I have used the band clamps for several years and most of the DH divers I know use them as well. I have had no problems.
Need: Parts advice for reconditioning Royal Aqua Master double hose regulator
- Thread starter FlyernDiver
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captain
Contributor
Just don't over tighten the band clamps, all they have to be is snug.
Paladin
Contributor
I have the long yoke with the tire/wheel screw. I bought it from VDH to use with the banjo fitting I also bought from there. I also have the new silicon mouthpiece and mine isn't flimsy at all. I also have the LP port adapter (for the Hookah port) that Bryan sells. I use it with a three port LP swivel adapter so that I can add an inflator hose and octopus, if needed. That is the setup I'm using in my avatar, along with my double 72s.
The new curved "Navy" and new "USD" silicone mouthpieces are as durable and strong as the originals in my opinion. The new repro Voit hourglass mouthpiece may, may be a tad bit softer than the original but I love it, works great, comfortable and I have used it in some darn stiff current. However, the new curved USD/Navy silicone jobs are my favorite now.
The duckbills, you know, people get into likes and dislikes and it can easily get over blown into "James said the silicone duckbills are no good and you will die" by my simply saying I prefer the NOS neoprene types. They have more body to them is my main issue. I have not used every of the newest stuff, Bryan and vdh are always improving the products.
I would take up specific issues on various products on the relevant forums, vdh or vss rather than here on this forum, JMO.
Oh, and welcome to double hose and vintage scuba diving
N (James)
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FlyernDiver
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LOL!
"the silicone duckbills are no good and you will die."
No such luck; I was just curious why you preferred them? It seems because there is more body to em'. Fair enough. Thanks for the response. Maybe I should just try both types, but then I'll really need one of those bandclamps...
I see the vintage set goes to Wazee on occasion. That's only about an hour or so from me--when do you guys get over there next?
Again, thanks for all the opinions guys.
"the silicone duckbills are no good and you will die."
No such luck; I was just curious why you preferred them? It seems because there is more body to em'. Fair enough. Thanks for the response. Maybe I should just try both types, but then I'll really need one of those bandclamps...
I see the vintage set goes to Wazee on occasion. That's only about an hour or so from me--when do you guys get over there next?
Again, thanks for all the opinions guys.
Flyerndiver, this is just what I have found, and just my opinion:
EPDM and silicone will last longer than neoprene. To me, this is an advantage mostly with the hoses and mouthpiece valves. A good silicone duckbill would be great, but the silicone duckbills I have seen were WAY too flimsy for me. NOS mouthpieces have served me well, and last a long time. I have yet to wear one out. EPDM does have a bad taste, but neoprene tastes like the original hoses tasted back in the day, just as you can imagine by the smell of good, old neprene flippers and masks. You're not a vintage diver until you enjoy the smell and taste of neoprene! That said, my yellow hoses are silicone, and they perform perfectly. They are not too "soft" or flimsy compared to the neoprene hoses as far as I can tell.
As mentioned before, VDH sells a copy of the fine Mossback hookah port adapter. I have original Mossbacks which are no longer available, but the copies can get the job done too. I, also, can run an octopus and LP inflator off of this through a 3-way swivel when I dive with non-vintage divers who may need the octopus and/or feel uncomfortable with me filling my horsecollar manually
You can install a allen-keyed 3/8" plug when you don't need to run the extra gizmos, and it will look alot like an original hookah port cap to all but those in-the-know. Thus, you can retain the original look without ever having to remove the adapter. Also, you can attach a LP gauge there for testing/adjusting your IP whenever you want to. It's really handy!
As for band clamps vs. clips....I take the hoses off my reg after each day's diving and flush them and the regulator out with fresh water. If diving fresh water, I don't bother with the reg flush unless I can see that water somehow got into the cans. I tried a couple reproduction band clamps when they first came out, and the stainless hardware galled on me in short order and snapped off during disassembly. Aside from that setback, I was never able to get the cans tight enough to keep them from rotating in relation to one another, even after putting the recommended-at-the-time ugly crimps around the edges of the band. I was at a loss, as everyone was singing praises about the band clamp. Well, that was then, and this is now. Everyone is still singing band clamp praises, so I don't know if anything has really changed or not. They were originally stainless. Now I hear they are chrome plated steel, and I haven't heard of anyone having to bend them all up to get them to tighten anymore, so maybe they really are good now. Just relaying my experiences with trying them out a few years back, though I never trusted them for even one dive.
I decided to stick with the clips which were original to these rectangle label models back when they were sold anyway. I only tear into my regulators for servicing about once every two or three years anyway, and with a good daily flush have had no verdigris whatsoever inside. The VDH service kits are very nice and complete, and the prices are quite reasonable. To answer another of your questions, I found original clips to be reuseable about 5-7 times (or so) before cracking. If you decide to stay with the original look of clips, I, or some other period diver can guide you with tips on how to r&r the clips. Once you know how, it isn't difficult at all.
Welcome to vintage diving! You are asking some good questions
P.S. You do not have to separate the cans to r&r duckbills.
P.P.S. Use a regular thickness banjo with a long yoke, or the Dacor tank valve with the built-in HP port to attach your gauge. If someone comes along trying to unload his "thin" banjo which "will work with your short yoke", beware. JMO, again!
EPDM and silicone will last longer than neoprene. To me, this is an advantage mostly with the hoses and mouthpiece valves. A good silicone duckbill would be great, but the silicone duckbills I have seen were WAY too flimsy for me. NOS mouthpieces have served me well, and last a long time. I have yet to wear one out. EPDM does have a bad taste, but neoprene tastes like the original hoses tasted back in the day, just as you can imagine by the smell of good, old neprene flippers and masks. You're not a vintage diver until you enjoy the smell and taste of neoprene! That said, my yellow hoses are silicone, and they perform perfectly. They are not too "soft" or flimsy compared to the neoprene hoses as far as I can tell.
As mentioned before, VDH sells a copy of the fine Mossback hookah port adapter. I have original Mossbacks which are no longer available, but the copies can get the job done too. I, also, can run an octopus and LP inflator off of this through a 3-way swivel when I dive with non-vintage divers who may need the octopus and/or feel uncomfortable with me filling my horsecollar manually
You can install a allen-keyed 3/8" plug when you don't need to run the extra gizmos, and it will look alot like an original hookah port cap to all but those in-the-know. Thus, you can retain the original look without ever having to remove the adapter. Also, you can attach a LP gauge there for testing/adjusting your IP whenever you want to. It's really handy!As for band clamps vs. clips....I take the hoses off my reg after each day's diving and flush them and the regulator out with fresh water. If diving fresh water, I don't bother with the reg flush unless I can see that water somehow got into the cans. I tried a couple reproduction band clamps when they first came out, and the stainless hardware galled on me in short order and snapped off during disassembly. Aside from that setback, I was never able to get the cans tight enough to keep them from rotating in relation to one another, even after putting the recommended-at-the-time ugly crimps around the edges of the band. I was at a loss, as everyone was singing praises about the band clamp. Well, that was then, and this is now. Everyone is still singing band clamp praises, so I don't know if anything has really changed or not. They were originally stainless. Now I hear they are chrome plated steel, and I haven't heard of anyone having to bend them all up to get them to tighten anymore, so maybe they really are good now. Just relaying my experiences with trying them out a few years back, though I never trusted them for even one dive.
I decided to stick with the clips which were original to these rectangle label models back when they were sold anyway. I only tear into my regulators for servicing about once every two or three years anyway, and with a good daily flush have had no verdigris whatsoever inside. The VDH service kits are very nice and complete, and the prices are quite reasonable. To answer another of your questions, I found original clips to be reuseable about 5-7 times (or so) before cracking. If you decide to stay with the original look of clips, I, or some other period diver can guide you with tips on how to r&r the clips. Once you know how, it isn't difficult at all.
Welcome to vintage diving! You are asking some good questions
P.S. You do not have to separate the cans to r&r duckbills.
P.P.S. Use a regular thickness banjo with a long yoke, or the Dacor tank valve with the built-in HP port to attach your gauge. If someone comes along trying to unload his "thin" banjo which "will work with your short yoke", beware. JMO, again!
Paladin
Contributor
I have had no problems with the band clamp on my 1959 DA Aqua-Master. I squeeze the ends together as tightly as I can with a pair of needle-nose pliers and tighten the screw by hand. I've never had the cans move on me.
I didn't say the silicone mouthpieces aren't durable, only that they flex more than the originals in a 2-4+ knot current!
SeaRat
SeaRat
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FlyernDiver
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Well, I ordered a slog of parts from VDH today. As expected, Bryan was very helpful and I expect the parts to be of excellent quality.
I decided to stick with the stock c-clips, at least for the time being.
So, Duckbill, and others, what is the technique for r&r'ing these little clips? I found some info on the VDH forums about manufacturing a tool for removal--I'll find a suitable end cutter at the Iola Old Car Show tonight. But, what is the technique for it's use and how do you reinstall them? I can image some tape and a gentle touch are required...
I decided to stick with the stock c-clips, at least for the time being.
So, Duckbill, and others, what is the technique for r&r'ing these little clips? I found some info on the VDH forums about manufacturing a tool for removal--I'll find a suitable end cutter at the Iola Old Car Show tonight. But, what is the technique for it's use and how do you reinstall them? I can image some tape and a gentle touch are required...
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