need little help setting up IRON 180

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Scubamedicjoe

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ok I have it semi set up and it fires hurray!!
now what is this round sticker for. Do I need to put the screw in the advance cancel circuit swith the one that says ( magnet screw switch )or just leave it alone thanks .
 
medic13:
ok I have it semi set up and it fires hurray!!
now what is this round sticker for. Do I need to put the screw in the advance cancel circuit swith the one that says ( magnet screw switch )or just leave it alone thanks .

Which camera do you have?
 
Go to the Inon Manual starting on page 20 and determine which "Light Adjustment Type" you have for your camera from that column such as R-M, P-TTL, etc. That dictates whether or not you need to insert the Magnet Switch Screw. If your camera is a R-TTL, R-S or R-M then the screw goes in as explained on page 27.
 
Gilligan was glade to see your on since Deeis gone lol.
I have the Olympus with the PT-015 housing and was told wouldn't need it but didn't say anything about placing the screw hate to have it leak because I was suppose to put the screw in there.
 
medic13:
Gilligan was glade to see your on since Deeis gone lol.
I have the Olympus with the PT-015 housing and was told wouldn't need it but didn't say anything about placing the screw hate to have it leak because I was suppose to put the screw in there.

According to Ryan at Underwater Camera Pros, put the screw in and leave it forever. This assumes you're using a C5050/PT-015 and the optical fiber cable to activate the D180 strobe.
The round sticker is a diffuser for the focusing light. I used the focusing light without the sticker on a night dive and it was too narrow a beam and too bright. Next time I'm going to put the round diffuser sticker on and try that.
You'll really like the strobe - very easy to see and make adjustments on the back, and pics are great.
Good luck.
 
thanks that what I wanted to make sure first , so far it does some great land picture LOL will now in about 24 hrs how it does underwater going to be my first time in Cozumel looking forward to it . one last thing I dont need to put the the actual magnet switch in right just the screw to keep it water tight.
 
medic13:
one last thing I dont need to put the the actual magnet switch in right just the screw to keep it water tight.

You DO need to place the magnet in and place the screw in. NOT TOO TIGHT! It is not to keep out water but to cancel some circuitry. The only part that must keep out water is the battery compartment. All other parts can get wet.
 
Kelphelper:
are you sure it says in the manual under page 23 that RM flash type which the oplympus C5050 is under advance cancel circuit says (UN-neccesary)
hum so many decissions LOL
 
kelphelper is correct in that the hole the magnet goes in does not involve any seal. That hole is part of the case and the magnet interacts with the electronics through the plastic housing.

The 5050 works in two Light Adjustment Types:
R-M is the slave mode (insert the magnet)
P-TTL is other than the slave mode (without the magnet)

The R-M mode is completely manual and does not use the cameras pre-flash. If Ryan said to use that setting for the C5050 then I would go with that. I have a C4000 and it does not have a slave mode so my only choice is P-TTL. The Inon graph shows a C4000 option with slave mode but I am not aware of any C4000's that have it.
 
I tried to get ahold of ryan he's out of town so talked to Yazo in Japan who said it will actually work both way but easier without the manet less set up .hears the actual second email i got .
as stated from" Yuzo
Your camera is C-5050, and it is P-TTL group camera, so it is no need to put the magnet.
If you put the magnet, then D-180 will not cancel pre-flashing, and flash it at the first pre flashing.

But if you use C-5050 with " slave flash mode" then you have better put the magnet.
When On this mode, D-180 sometimes sync but sometime will not sync
without the magnet."
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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