Need help finding valve replacement...

[yaronad]

I have a Farber 12L steel tank from 1997. Need to replace the valve to a new one
The emails I've sent to the mandator(farber) came back as "error"...
Scubadiving cylinders Faber the leader in scuba diving cylinders Faber steel cylinders for high-pressure gases, diving, scuba, diving cylinders, diving cylinders, diving cylinders, scuba diving cylinders, sub SCUBA scuba DIVING
No Customer srvice at all!

Need help
Or the right email address of farber?....or, advice? Where can I buy a new one?
Here are some photos

 

[ajduplessis]

Firstly, why are you looking at replace the valves? You can buy any M25X2 valves as replacement. I like DIR Zone

 

[yaronad]

Firstly, why are you looking at replace the valves? You can buy any M25X2 valves as replacement. I like DIR Zone

Thx M8....but I didnt understand your answer. replace = buy a new one. no?
Didn't find the M25X2 at the site that you recommended...... is it DirDirect ?
or can you link me plz?


And Most important....it is an old tank with a unique Conical Entry / valve. not a regular one
I didn't post here instead of searching google for a regular M25X2....


Farber - doesn't have any customer service email/contact. as I wrote at the original post.
So I'm looking for whom that recognise the issue or had the same 1997 12L Farber Tank or any other solution/idea


MANY THX!

 

[OkByMe]

I think your problem may be bigger than the valve. If it uses a Metric valve thread it is probably not a DOT certified tank and cannot be hydro tested. If it does not say DOT 3AA or TC 3AA and does not have a REE value, it is probably European. If the valve body is not cracked, it can be rebulit. The internal parts, like the seat and stem o-ring can be purchased, or a kit is available. If the valve thread is tapered instead of straight, I suggest you make a yard bell out of the top of it. It looks like the valve you have does not have an overpressure relief on it ether.

 

[jcaplins]

I'm guessing he is not in the US and is not going to care about DOT requirements.

yaronad, Where are you located? maybe someone in your region may be of more assistance.

I can't imagine a tank from 1997 having anything unique about the threads.
Here are m25x2 valves sold from a UK online site:
Beaver Sports - Welcome

 

[yaronad]

I think your problem may be bigger than the valve. If it uses a Metric valve thread it is probably not a DOT certified tank and cannot be hydro tested. If it does not say DOT 3AA or TC 3AA and does not have a REE value, it is probably European. If the valve body is not cracked, it can be rebulit. The internal parts, like the seat and stem o-ring can be purchased, or a kit is available. If the valve thread is tapered instead of straight, I suggest you make a yard bell out of the top of it. It looks like the valve you have does not have an overpressure relief on it ether.

Indeed the Tank was made for the European/Italy market
I'm from Israel


To service the valve is always an option -
I thought that It will be better to replace it - to a new one, obviously not as simple as a regular/standard valve....

and what do you mean by suggesting to make a "yard bell out of the top of it...." Does it have acoustic qualities

I Understand you claim there are no New metric Valves in that size & shape?
So replacing the internal parts...is my only option?

I'm guessing he is not in the US and is not going to care about DOT requirements.

yaronad, Where are you located? maybe someone in your region may be of more assistance.

I can't imagine a tank from 1997 having anything unique about the threads.
Here are m25x2 valves sold from a UK online site:
Beaver Sports - Welcome

Many Thx I'll check them

 

[Akimbo]

…I thought that It will be better to replace it - to a new one, obviously not as simple as a regular/standard valve....

Just curious and for my own enlightenment: Isn’t the valve in the photos a “regular/standard” in Europe and Israel? Does Israel allow EU and US DOT cylinders to be used?

It looks like a lot of corrosion around the base of the valve. Are you having trouble removing it?

I concur that rebuilding/servicing the valve probably makes the most sense. Any decent dive shop should be able to do it for a very reasonable fee.

 

[yaronad]

Just curious and for my own enlightenment: Isn’t the valve in the photos a “regular/standard” in Europe and Israel? Does Israel allow EU and US DOT cylinders to be used?

I really don't know....but I think that you will find more EU cylinders in Israel.
On the last years, dive shops here stopped importing new cylinders because of the too expensive procedures and tests that they required to do on each and every cylinder
that is what I've been told. not shure.
on the bottom line ....new cylinders are very rare and expensive in Israel
we are like cuba with the "57 chevys"

It looks like a lot of corrosion around the base of the valve. Are you having trouble removing it?

It has been hydro test, 5 months ago and has been "nitrox cleaned" from rust etc. at the dive shop thay told me not to worry about the corrosion around the base of the valve. and I don't think they had troubles removing it.
My only reason for this post ....is losing ~5 bars a weak from the valve. thought it be better to replace to a new one

I concur that rebuilding/servicing the valve probably makes the most sense. Any decent dive shop should be able to do it for a very reasonable fee.

yep....Prices here for that are around $45....and new valve is around $70.
But it looks like I'll don't have a choice here

THX M8

 

[widget]

Its a simple M25X2 Metric valve, nothing special, they are available everywhere. Valve bodies seldom crack and if its only losing 5 bar a week its a minor leak, could be the valve thread O-Ring as well but most likely the valve seat. Immerse it in water and see where it is leaking, if its out the handle or din outlet its most likely the valve seat, around the neck its just the neck O-Ring. Perhaps after the hydro the neck O-Ring was damaged when it was re installed?.

Both are straight forward simple jobs and as mentioned a quick rebuild is probably all thats needed.

Mostly the valve seat becomes embedded from opening and closing or excessive tightening the handwheel, its common, especially on older tanks and its a simple 3 minute job to fix.

 

[ajduplessis]

Thx M8....but I didnt understand your answer. replace = buy a new one. no?
Didn't find the M25X2 at the site that you recommended...... is it DirDirect ?
or can you link me plz?


And Most important....it is an old tank with a unique Conical Entry / valve. not a regular one
I didn't post here instead of searching google for a regular M25X2....


Farber - doesn't have any customer service email/contact. as I wrote at the original post.
So I'm looking for whom that recognise the issue or had the same 1997 12L Farber Tank or any other solution/idea


MANY THX!

DIRZONE de home Any M25x2 thread valve will fit. You can also do a search for Leicester valves (England). Rebuild would be the obvious first fix. You cant contact Faber directly