Replacing vs Rebuilding Tank Valves

[MrChen]

In this thread, Question - Blue Steel Faber FX Series HP 100 vs XS Scuba Faber HP 100 the discussion came up around valves being replaced or rebuilt during hydro every 5 years.

@Divin'Papaw o you order your valves, from say DGX, and then give them to your LDS to install when they do the hydro? What does that process look like?

What is the cost difference between rebuilding and buying new? Is this a cost I'm incurring every time I do a hydro and just wasn't aware of it? Or does nothing happen with my valves unless someone deems a rebuild is needed?

 

[tbone1004]

it is highly unlikely that you are getting a valve rebuild as part of your hydro cost through your LDS. Probably getting the neck o-ring changed but that's it.
The parts from DGX are going to be about $25 for the rebuild kit + the OPV, they come separately.
Brand new valve from DGX is $55, and $75 for a modular valve. If you're paying to have a valve rebuilt then I would buy new. If your labor is cheap then it may be worth rebuilding. I tend to rebuild manifolds but replace valves.

 

[BoltSnap]

Even at wholesale prices for me, if I had to rebuild a valve and replace more than an oring, it is less expensive to replace the valve with a new one especially if you consider labor costs. Manifolds are different however.

 

[Divin'Papaw]

In this thread, Question - Blue Steel Faber FX Series HP 100 vs XS Scuba Faber HP 100 the discussion came up around valves being replaced or rebuilt during hydro every 5 years.

@Divin'Papaw o you order your valves, from say DGX, and then give them to your LDS to install when they do the hydro? What does that process look like?

What is the cost difference between rebuilding and buying new? Is this a cost I'm incurring every time I do a hydro and just wasn't aware of it? Or does nothing happen with my valves unless someone deems a rebuild is needed?

If you have not been intentionally having your valves rebuilt or replaced, nothing has been done with them at hydro. No replacement of the "soft parts", no replacement of the burst assembly, nothing other than changing the tank neck o-ring at most. That may be fine for a time, but eventually your valves will become gummy, hard to turn, or start to leak. The biggest risk is the burst assembly IMO. If you don't replace them occasionally (at hydro is the general recommendation), eventually one will blow. Not a fun thing to experience.

As to the cost difference between rebuild and replace, most shops here in South FL are around $25 plus parts. The burst assembly is an additional charge. I've found that the total comes pretty darn close to the cost of a brand new valve as long as you buy them in advance when you see a sale or find some on clearance. That is what I have started doing with all of my tanks.

I buy replacement valves in advance when I see a good deal. Sometimes a year or two before I will need them. Then, before hydro, I will drain the tank, install the new valve, transfill a few hundred PSI into the tank, then take the tank in for hydro.

 

[Johnoly]

Add me to the list of (I stopped rebuilding valves@15yrs). It was so easy to rebuild{youtube it}.
But the prices of valves like @tbone1004 said, are so cheap, I now just throw the previous ones in the trash at Hydro Time,, even if they work perfectly.

As to timing of your individual valve swap mine go like this.
*) I bring the tank into my LDS for hydro and tell them don't do the valve service.
*) Leave old valve on when it goes into hydro. My shop & the hydro guy find it easier to tank lift it.
*) When it is returned to the shop, let them fill it & dive it once
*) After the dive, drain the tank, remove the valve.
*) THIS NEXT IS IMPORTANT> Look inside the tank for flash rust/water from hydro or before.
*) If it's clean, put on the new valve & new Oring. Else,,take pictures with phone to show.
*) Transfill whip it with a couple of hundred PSI
*) Bring it back to the LDS for your normal fill.

 

[MrChen]

Which websites do you guys monitor for deals on valves? What's considered a good price on a convertible valve? I see Tbone says $75 for a modular valve, I assume this is regular price.

Thanks guys.

 

[Divin'Papaw]

Which websites do you guys monitor for deals on valves? What's considered a good price on a convertible valve? I see Tbone says $75 for a modular valve, I assume this is regular price.

Thanks guys.

My two most common sources are very common sites that many of us use… DGX and LeisurePro/scuba.com. I frequently use the DGX branded valves (for HP tanks) but sometimes find Thermos on sale/clearance. I have also used the XS Scuba valves and like them as well.

You have to pay attention to the burst disk. If it’s going on aluminum tanks, you want a 5000 burst disk/safety assembly, If it’s going on a high pressure tank you want a 5250.

EDIT: I will also casually monitor a large number of sites for sales or clearance on valves. DRIS, Piranha, Northeast Scuba Supply, Divers Supply, Divers Discount, etc, etc. My most recent round of valve replacements I found on sale/clearance at both DGX and LeisurePro (at the time) last Fall/Early Winter. I always avoid buying them last minute so that I can watch for deals. I'm typically able to find valves for the $35-$55 range.

 

[OMyMyOHellYes]

Which websites do you guys monitor for deals on valves? What's considered a good price on a convertible valve? I see Tbone says $75 for a modular valve, I assume this is regular price.

Thanks guys.

DGX for Thermo (full diameter (7"+) bottles), Piranah for Blue Steel (smaller diameter ponies).

Thermo Pro DIN/K 3000 Standalone Valves (Typical Side) - Pair

Value priced as a pair! This version of the the Thermo Standalone Valve has a 5000 psi burst disk suitable for use with cylinders up to 3000 psi service pressure.

www.divegearexpress.com

I've not seen their site without the surplus valve "special" - though it used to be for singles (@ half the pair price), not pairs. Occasionally will run that for a pair @ $50 - I just stocked up on a half dozen... if you need them for a different working pressure, it's as simple as buying and installing a new burst plug. Service kit goes for $16 and burst disk for $8.

Right Side Pro Valve Blue Steel

Blue Steel Din/K valve. Remove insert to make this valve a din style Manufactured with oxygen compatible materials and lubricants Nitrox ready up to 40% Has longer extended hand wheel for easy diver turn on and off! Recessed burst disk gives added advantage against disk damage while in wrecks or...

www.piranhadivemfg.com

I like cleaning & rebuilding my own, so I'll usually do that (I don't do kits any more, I just stock a hand full of the right soft parts and an assortment of burst disks). I have the ultrasonic so I use that but it's not really required - a good soak in 50% kitchen vinegar and a toothbrush will usually do.

I only do XS/Thermo and Blue Steel just from a parts commonality/stocking standpoint. I have a box full of other brands or K valves that end up being handles for anything I take in for hydro.

If you wanted to be the quickest with the valve swap out without doing a bunch of fancy dance steps, just drain your tank, pull the old valve and stick in the new one before you take it in for hydro. Your shop won't know the difference and will probably just put a new o-ring on it and twist it in before filling it. You get your tank back with a whole new valve.

I've been in contact with both XS/Thermo and San-o-Sub/Blue Steel. Both say rebuild is spec requirement for their valves at the 5 year point. Standard, at a minimum if you choose to ignore the spec (and every single shop I initially spoke to ignores it) would be to replace the burst plug.

 

[greeniguana]

But the prices of valves like @tbone1004 said, are so cheap, I now just throw the previous ones in the trash at Hydro Time,,

You throw solid brass in the trash?

 

[MrChen]

There were two recommendations to replace the valves after the hydro and one before. What's the thought process?