Neat Little Tricks Are Good to Know

[SC_Hoaty]

You would have to tie each weight to the line individually. In the case of soft weights the size of the part you tie to could change causing the loss of that weight. With hard weights any rough edge on the weights could cut the line. You would also be pulling on the weights in a straight line making them less effective then a belt that could dig itself into a soft bottom.

I guess I was thinking to pull the integrated weight pouches, and tie the reel off to them. Most have a handle or other structure to grab when you go to drop the weights, and that I would tie the reel off on that. I agree it is two items to tie off versus one with a belt, but then the belt needs to be re-buckled so the weights don't slip off.

 

[Rich Keller]

I guess I was thinking to pull the integrated weight pouches, and tie the reel off to them. Most have a handle or other structure to grab when you go to drop the weights, and that I would tie the reel off on that. I agree it is two items to tie off versus one with a belt, but then the belt needs to be re-buckled so the weights don't slip off.

Yes you would want to re-buckle the belt when you do this. If it is not too deep you could also go back to the bottom and tie off the reel if there were something down there that you could tie off to.

 

[Hatul]

One more trick: to get rid or keep away stink from diving boots, instead of dunking in Sink-the Stink, just spray a bit of cat stain odor remover inside the boot. These have enzymes and other ingredients that break down the odor. Any type will do but my favorite is Out! Cat Stain and Odor Remover from Amazon.

Amazon.com: OUT! Pet Stain and Odor Remover, 32 Ounce: Pet Supplies

 

[tlarcombe]

In your scuba spares kit with o-rings, fin straps et-al, carry at least one HP and one LP regulator plug. As happened to me on a recent dive my BC LPI hose split because of a bumpy RIB ride to the dive site. One tiny LP plug and 3 mins later I could still guide the dive (inflating orally).

Note: HP is more problematic - but if you dive with a buddy whose SAC is much the same as yours and the profile is the same, its disconcerting but not impossible - invariably I complete a dive with much more (>2x) air than the people I am guiding (I am a DM in a seasonal tourist driven dive centre). However, the construction of the HP hose is much more resilient than the LP hoses and this failure is much less common.

The second tip is when you descend from a boat, make a mental note of the depth of the anchor. If you cannot find the boat at the end of the dive (acres of seagrass here - which all looks identical in every direction) so long as you know the rough direction of the boat, you hit the contour at the depth of the anchor and turn left or right accordingly and navigate by depth.

 

[Hatul]

In your scuba spares kit with o-rings, fin straps et-al, carry at least one HP and one LP regulator plug. As happened to me on a recent dive my BC LPI hose split because of a bumpy RIB ride to the dive site. One tiny LP plug and 3 mins later I could still guide the dive (inflating orally).

Note: HP is more problematic - but if you dive with a buddy whose SAC is much the same as yours and the profile is the same, its disconcerting but not impossible - invariably I complete a dive with much more (>2x) air than the people I am guiding (I am a DM in a seasonal tourist driven dive centre). However, the construction of the HP hose is much more resilient than the LP hoses and this failure is much less common.

The second tip is when you descend from a boat, make a mental note of the depth of the anchor. If you cannot find the boat at the end of the dive (acres of seagrass here - which all looks identical in every direction) so long as you know the rough direction of the boat, you hit the contour at the depth of the anchor and turn left or right accordingly and navigate by depth.

Using depth is one marker for navigating, I use that as well in shore dives. It's not foolproof but it helps. Besides the compass, also use the sand pattern on the bottom which runs perpendicular to wave direction and usually parallel to shore.

---------- Post Merged at 12:16 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 12:16 PM ----------

In your scuba spares kit with o-rings, fin straps et-al, carry at least one HP and one LP regulator plug. As happened to me on a recent dive my BC LPI hose split because of a bumpy RIB ride to the dive site. One tiny LP plug and 3 mins later I could still guide the dive (inflating orally).

Note: HP is more problematic - but if you dive with a buddy whose SAC is much the same as yours and the profile is the same, its disconcerting but not impossible - invariably I complete a dive with much more (>2x) air than the people I am guiding (I am a DM in a seasonal tourist driven dive centre). However, the construction of the HP hose is much more resilient than the LP hoses and this failure is much less common.

The second tip is when you descend from a boat, make a mental note of the depth of the anchor. If you cannot find the boat at the end of the dive (acres of seagrass here - which all looks identical in every direction) so long as you know the rough direction of the boat, you hit the contour at the depth of the anchor and turn left or right accordingly and navigate by depth.

Using depth is one marker for navigating, I use that as well in shore dives. It's not foolproof but it helps. Besides the compass, also use the sand pattern on the bottom which runs perpendicular to wave direction and usually parallel to shore.

 

[tlarcombe]

In your scuba spares kit with o-rings, fin straps et-al, carry at least one HP and one LP regulator plug. As happened to me on a recent dive my BC LPI hose split because of a bumpy RIB ride to the dive site. One tiny LP plug and 3 mins later I could still guide the dive (inflating orally).

By some act of providence I was asked to re-set a permanent mooring (it had been dragged by another boats anchor) for a yacht yesterday - just one day after making this post. It was an easy job although very heavy work - the anchor was about 80kg attached to 50m or chain weighing in at about 30kg per metre.

Completely disregarding my own tips I just loaded my gear into the car and went to dive. While carrying my tank and BC on my shoulder I slipped on the slipway (it was slippery - doh!) going over backwards. There was no visible damage to my gear - so I opened the tank valve, did a full check, then went to dive. After a couple of descents to 15m and back to the surface to check with the skipper on locations my octo hose burst. It was easy enough to reach over my shoulder and close the valve without losing too much air, but because I didn't have a low pressure plug or another reg set with me I had one hour round trip (swim/walk/drive) to go get another tank and regs.

Isn't irony a bitch!