Near reg failure - all ok

[SlugLife]

When I sent in my reg I wrote up exactly what happened - and have spoken via phone - to make sure they understand just how extensive the need for cleaning may be. I also want to make sure my hoses are in good working order.

I'm no service-pro, but as a DIY person, this sounds like a standard servicing job. You generally completely disassemble the first and 2nd stage, clean all the parts, replace all o-rings, filter, etc, and put it back together.

yeah it is funny. the local dive shops will have a heart attack if you try to fill a pristine tank that is one month out of vis, but "some" of the tourist dive operations, fill their tanks 2-3 times per day, and they never seem to open them up. Visual inspection is a big money maker for the shops, takes 2-3 minutes.

They should be checked every few months if used a lot in rental by careless customers.

Also, it does NOT require a tank to be drained to get saltwater in it. All it takes is for the fill operator to not blast the valve open before filling it each time. Often a slug of saltwater sits in the opening of the valve and if present, it is injected into the tank. Once that happens several times, the potential for serious corrosion is there.

I've had numerous certified professionals tell me VIP is a giant scam. It takes 5-minutes at most, is a simple job, and should really cost something like $5. Around here they charge $20 to $25.

If it was only $5, I'd probably have my tanks checked more regularly.

Doesn't compressing air from the atmosphere into a tank create moisture in the tank? The more humidity in the air, the more water in your tank. Even if you never run your tank down to zero, moisture is still being introduced. I know with the air compressor in the vehicle maintenance shop at work I have to drain it a couple times a year and get about a gallon of water each time.

The compressor setup should have a water filter/separator before any tank. So, yes, pressurizing will cause condensation, but the water is removed before the tank, and none should ever get in the tank.

I don't think there's anything you can do to prevent this besides having an alternate air source? Correct?

Independent air-source. Which could be another dive-buddy, a pony-tank, independent doubles, or side-mount. I'm a strong advocate for always diving with redundant air. A set of inexpensive working regs, and a 19cu tank is probably idea for most recreational-diving. 13cu if you travel a lot.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Independent air-source. Which could be another dive-buddy, a pony-tank, independent doubles, or side-mount. I'm a strong advocate for always diving with redundant air. A set of inexpensive working regs, and a 19cu tank is probably idea for most recreational-diving. 13cu if you travel a lot.

Yeah, independent air source would have been better vocabulary.

 

[rx7diver]

I'm no service-pro, but as a DIY person, this sounds like a standard servicing job. You generally completely disassemble the first and 2nd stage, clean all the parts, replace all o-rings, filter, etc, and put it back together.

You know, I have never cleaned my hoses. However, I am thinking that both the IP (regulator) hose and the LP (BC) hose should be cleaned in this case, if possible. (Can hoses even be cleaned?)

And the LP inflator should be serviced, too, I think.

And I am thinking that the HP (SPG) hose should be replaced. Because it has such tiny openings, any of the oxidation powder/slurry that made its way past the 1st stage filter to inside the HP hose would be difficult/impossible to clean out, maybe.

And I wonder about the implications for the SPG and/or the AI unit.

What a mess!

rx7diver

 

[Kimela]

And I am thinking that the HP (SPG) hose should be replaced. Because it has such tiny openings, any of the oxidation powder/slurry that made its way past the 1st stage filter to inside the HP hose would be difficult/impossible to clean out, maybe.

And I wonder about the implications for the SPG and/or the AI unit.

I hadn't thought of that. Thanks for that insight.

EDIT: R thought of that and left it all attached to the first stage so they can do what they think is best. My BC inflator has been flushed so that shouldn't be an issue.

 

[Dark Wolf]

What is the recommended interval on your compressor? 5 min seems excessive (notthat I'm an expert I have no idea).

I was told 10-20 I think, I do it every 10 on the dot. I have an alarm on my phone that goes off every 10 min when I turn it on.

I have also found I end up doing it a lot less when it's drier out (which makes sense).

I am a bit anal about checking it, to be honest. I will crack and see if anything comes out then close it, so it is pretty brief most of the time.

I would have to ask Jim Shelden about the interval, to refresh my memory. My last test came back at -67°F dew point.

Absolutely agree about weather playing a role.

DW

 

[rob.mwpropane]

I am a bit anal about checking it, to be honest. I will crack and see if anything comes out then close it, so it is pretty brief most of the time.

I would have to ask Jim Shelden about the interval, to refresh my memory. My last test came back at -67°F dew point.

Absolutely agree about weather playing a role.

DW

I have gotten a pretty good feeling for when to do it based on temp / humidity. It really ends up being either 15 min in the winter or 10 in the summer. I have my phone go off to remind me.

 

[Kimela]

Independent air-source. Which could be another dive-buddy, a pony-tank, independent doubles, or side-mount. I'm a strong advocate for always diving with redundant air. A set of inexpensive working regs, and a 19cu tank is probably idea for most recreational-diving. 13cu if you travel a lot.

We got ponies 10 years or so ago. The first time we realize how difficult they were to travel with we opted not to use them. At home, diving locally, ok. But the hassle involved with air travel made it a non-starter.

 

[Marvinshirley2]

Wow. Thank you for sharing your story. I’ve not heard of this happening before, but now know to be alert to it. So glad it all turned out okay.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

yeah it is funny. the local dive shops will have a heart attack if you try to fill a pristine tank that is one month out of vis, but "some" of the tourist dive operations, fill their tanks 2-3 times per day, and they never seem to open them up. Visual inspection is a big money maker for the shops, takes 2-3 minutes.

They should be checked every few months if used a lot in rental by careless customers.

Also, it does NOT require a tank to be drained to get saltwater in it. All it takes is for the fill operator to not blast the valve open before filling it each time. Often a slug of saltwater sits in the opening of the valve and if present, it is injected into the tank. Once that happens several times, the potential for serious corrosion is there.

Not only a tad of salt water around the fill hole, but in this situation it sounds to me like the compressor was blowing a lot of moisture and filtration was very bad. Probably a long time since checking filters and not keeping up with draining. Humid environments and air compressors filling tanks plus multiple fills per day don’t get along well. Add in some complacency and you will have some corroded tanks. There was a local dive shop that almost ruined one of my brand new tanks with their crappy disgusting air compressor that blew water and oil and god knows what else!
With that level of white oxide I would bet that it had been a long time since that tank was checked. I’ll bet all of them were like that. That tank had to have an inch of powder rolling around it it to block the dip tube. That’s way more than a few drops of salt water or an empty tank could cause.
They need to be cleaned out with alumaprep33 then rinsed really well and dried. The valves need cleaning too.

 

[steinbil]

So this is when I rethink just how far away from my buddy I'm comfortable being. Might be revisiting this.

This is the most important take away, in my humble opinion. I'm regularly surprised at the amount of distance, and lack of communication, in buddy pairs. My regular dive buddies are always within a fin kick or two, and positioned for easy visual communication and heavy use of passive light communication. It really makes diving stress free, when I know I can get my buddies' attention quickly and in case of an emergency they would be in arms reach within seconds.