Nanight lights?

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Well I did some inspections meanwhile some pros , some cons ,....

Main con is thermal transfer from cooling disc to enclosure without thermal grease . I fix that
 
Yes I talk about C3 .



Have you ever heard something like '' Power is nothing without controll'' (Pirelli ;-)) but it is very true.
Led die should be smaller to get better beam pattern and tighter focus -( real 5 degrees)

I done minimal progres , switching my job , etc.... I did not open light

Mostly it is small problem I can not use existing driver because of 12V led , second point is size an place for driver

1. on first picture i have done simple fix to return switch button instead of flip flap it ;-)

2. I put some thick rubber WC gasket to limit beam and also protect lamp from shocks looks really
fine for 5€

3. battery tank and headlamp end , have same cap moulded delrin . From pictue you can think how
many space you have inside ( mine driver should be a little cooled because it have thermal
protection )

4. It looks PCB driver or cooling plate seat size on the top of bottom cap so you have to think how to fix all things inside

How much did the rubber gasket modification narrow the halo / corona around the spot?
I have the same lighthead on 19Ah batterypack and i do enjoy it but mostly on settings 1 and 2 due to wide halo beam and silty waters
 
How much did the rubber gasket modification narrow the halo / corona around the spot?

Rubber gasket do it's job OK , but it could be some cm longer ( now is 25 mm ) and also protect glass and head from scratches or unexpected shocks
 
View attachment 635938

Well I did some inspections meanwhile some pros , some cons ,....

Main con is thermal transfer from cooling disc to enclosure without thermal grease . I fix that

Oh Man! You have waaaaaay too much thermal paste on there. I work with thermal control of microchips and also have a C3. My C3 has a snug fit between the cooling body and the outer body. I can hear them scratch together when I twist open the head, and it really shouldn't need any thermal grease, since they surfaces are pressed together quite hard.
Also that amount of silicon grease is excessive. It will only attract dirt. You should only have enough to make the o-rings shiny. Not this much.
 
@ slicon grease
all threads are inside enclosure and no dirt can reach threads, the excess is easily wiped off. The joint is not intended for permanent opening and the grease does not disturb or damage.

@ thermal grease
this is tricky joint from teo reasons :
- the joint is guided by two helices with a fairly large tolerance and not along the central axis
- we connect two cones, nowhere did I notice precise surface treatment - turning which should be on both bodies
(positive (insert) and negative (housing)) ; you can't know the fit ;a small irregularity and contact will fit into just a few
points that will not leave a precise fit ( i know word in my language but not in english because i'm not turner.
- the negative cone (housing) is painted inside ;probably with epoxy paint
- this is not computer processor and heatsink
- there is no headache from the surplus of grease but from it's lack.

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The first positive sign after the procedure is that when the full power is on, the warm band on the head housing is now felt more intensive. I didn't feel that heat before.
 
On my C3 head, I can clearly see that the anodisation has been scratched evenly all around the surface that touches the cooling body. This coincide with my idea that the fit is quite snug.
On both the head and the cooling body you can clearly see the lathe/turning patterns, I don't believe any other method to create these would be easier actually.
 
The contact surface is matte, the non-contact surface is shiny, but you decide for yourself

Behind parabola is not sharp picture because I only look for driver place and need free depth, but contact heat sink surface is not the same for sure

Instead of turning you can grind or mill material .

The housing is probably a die cast
 

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The contact surface is matte, the non-contact surface is shiny, but you decide for yourself

Behind parabola is not sharp picture because I only look for driver place and need free depth, but contact heat sink surface is not the same for sure

Instead of turning you can grind or mill material .

The housing is probably a die cast

The housing is not die cast, there are obvious turning marks in mine.
If you have different texture on the contact and non contact surface of your housing, it's apparent that they press against each other. On my head, the cooling plate has even scratched off the anodisation all around, so its pretty obvious that there is good contact.
 
I'm not sure about your post what you want to say but it looks my and yours heads are obvious processed different :coffee:
I just asked their support, and all houses are turned with a lathe. Nothing is die cast. My point is that this gives high precision.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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