My Rix SA-6 Diesel

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My plan was to get the 7500 gauges from August. Oil filled at the compressor, dry at the tower, then a fancy digital at the whips.

August does not sell 5000...

I can get 5000 much "less expensive" from Amazon. Someone in the comments even said they are glass faced...

https://www.amazon.com/Measureman-Hydraulic-Pressure-0-5000psi-Stainless/dp/B07Z9R9FN1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=32DU4LJOQMSBH&dchild=1&keywords=5000+psi+pressure+gauge&qid=1605202475&sprefix=5000+psi,aps,191&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExM0dDSVpISk1KMkYmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA3NDM3NzUzQk1YR0RVVjU1MzdYJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MDQyNTNUQ0NDWFlONE5DQTgmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&th=1

Edit: the 1st 2 gauges are just checking the health of everything and I don't need to really watch them all the time...the last is the actual fill psi.


I'm comfortable getting whatever you guys tell me to get.
 
not necessarily true on the accuracy. The 5000 psi gauges are going to be most accurate from ~2000-3000psi. The 7500's will be most accurate in the ~3000-4000psi range. Most of my bottles are filled in the 3500-4000psi range and banks to 4500-5000psi. 5000's are certainly easier to read, but I have digital gauges on the whips for that.
the mid range is where your accuracy is highest, but a 7500 psi analog gauge also has really tiny graduations where the needle is 75psi wide alone. on an SA6 you aren't going to be filling 5000psi banks very often, unless you like rebuilding it.
 
I would not get a dry gauge at all or 7500psi either, the needle jumping all over the place is annoying and useless.
 
I have some of those, they are cheap and seem fine. Expect variable accuracy +/- 150psi or so.

For the coalescers and the tower I don't think I need to be ridiculously accurate. It just needs to show a starting point so I can gauge if they differentiate from that point.

I would imagine I check the gauge at the tower to make sure holding before starting, and the gauge at the coalescers after starting to make sure I'm building the correct pressure and no funny stuff.
 
For the coalescers and the tower I don't think I need to be ridiculously accurate. It just needs to show a starting point so I can gauge if they differentiate from that point.

I would imagine I check the gauge at the tower to make sure holding before starting, and the gauge at the coalescers after starting to make sure I'm building the correct pressure and no funny stuff.
huh?
starting point?
holding before starting?
gauge at the coalescers?

You don't need any of that, you only need one gauge at the whip end.
 
huh?
starting point?
holding before starting?
gauge at the coalescers?

You don't need any of that, you only need one gauge at the whip end.

Then how do you know if there's an issue upstream, or if the tower is leaking between fills. Why do so many systems have multiple gauges throughout?

I agree the main gauge would be at the whips, the other gauges would merely be to double check the health overall. Maybe not needed....but appreciated?
 
Does anyone have any recommendations for a snorkel or an intake hose? I know I need a filter on the end, but I'm talking about the hose itself. I'd like something that coils up easily and can be put away nice and neat.

I've read some people get the taste / smell of PVC or plastic with certain hoses. I was thinking maybe a flexible hose for a pool vacuum because they are resistant to chemicals.

Any thoughts or ideas what others have done?
 

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