My first canister light project.
- Thread starter ktomlinson
- Start date
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beekeeper5
Contributor
Can you show us the after pictures?
OP
The after pics look just like the other pics, I just have a different lens in the light head now. The new lens is a larger diameter and makes a more even seal on the oring.
Reef_Haven
Contributor
A very fun read,
thanks for posting your experience.
I'm modding a PT shockwave with this drop-in.
DealExtreme: $32.81 5*Cree R2 1200-Lumen White Light Drop-in LED Module (52.7mm*42mm/8.4V Max)
Should be here in a few days.
A can light is next on my list.
Any idea of the actual lumen output on your SSCP7? Many of the reviews suggest it may be closer to 500 lumens.
I've modded the CREE R2 in an SL-4 light and been impressed, any problems with the 5*R2 I should be aware of?
thanks for posting your experience.
I'm modding a PT shockwave with this drop-in.
DealExtreme: $32.81 5*Cree R2 1200-Lumen White Light Drop-in LED Module (52.7mm*42mm/8.4V Max)
Should be here in a few days.
A can light is next on my list.
Any idea of the actual lumen output on your SSCP7? Many of the reviews suggest it may be closer to 500 lumens.
I've modded the CREE R2 in an SL-4 light and been impressed, any problems with the 5*R2 I should be aware of?
The P7 is manufacturer-rated at 900 lumens... The thing is, manufacturer-rated means under perfect conditions, right temp, no reflector in a special testing device. Once you take into account the losses due to reflector, lens, long running time, etc you will lose lumens. Happens to all LEDs. Most 10W HIDs were putting out 500 lumens. I believe the P7 to put out about 700 realistically, but don't have a way to prove it. So, it is still a very good LED.
OP
I have now sanded the JB weld smooth and have painted the lights with epoxy spray paint (says it is rust, corrosion, chemical resistant). It's used for painting stuff like springs under trucks etc. You don't have to use primer, and it sticks to a wide variety of materials, including aluminum. I gave it 4 thin coats of paint.
You can see that one light head is from a C cell maglight and the other is a D cell. I was able to buy a handle for the D cell, but made a handle for the C cell. I cut a PVC coupling down to length, then cut a section of it out and then used a torch to slowly heat it, and then stretched it to size. It actually holds a lot tighter than the one I bought. To attach the canister to the BC I used a pipe clamp, I just bent a section to allow the clip to install. Here are a few pictures with the paint job.
You can see that one light head is from a C cell maglight and the other is a D cell. I was able to buy a handle for the D cell, but made a handle for the C cell. I cut a PVC coupling down to length, then cut a section of it out and then used a torch to slowly heat it, and then stretched it to size. It actually holds a lot tighter than the one I bought. To attach the canister to the BC I used a pipe clamp, I just bent a section to allow the clip to install. Here are a few pictures with the paint job.
OP
Keep us updated on how that project goes. I would be interested in how it turns out for you because I have a shockwave and a shockwave II that I am interesting in modding. Do you know how you are going to go about the mod yet?
Reef_Haven
Contributor
I think I'll actually try to fit it to a UK Sunlight C-4, very similar to the PT Miniwave.
jjblomquist has already made a couple of these mods. He gave me a few tips.
I'm going to power it with 2 of these. DealExtreme: $7.88 TrustFire Protected 18650 Lithium Battery (2500mAh 2-Pack Blue)
Wire a mini toggle switch inside the case to be activated by the thumb switch already on the light. Center the drop-in with the lense with a pvc pipe fitting section, and add the appropriate battery connections.
Hope to get close to 2 hrs run time. We'll see.
At least the waterproofing part is already done for me.
OP
Does he have pictures of mods anywhere online? I would be interested in seeing them if he does.
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