My daughter's equip. should I service it??
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Here is a regulator check list put together by Couv, Mattboy, Awap, and myself.
I (we) hope this helps.
Regulator checklist and inspection: Here are a few checks that everyone is capable of doing.
1. Inspect for external corrosion or physical damage to any parts including hoses. Pay particular attention to the hose to fitting interface for any signs of damage.
2. Inspect the first stage inlet filter for discoloration, particulate matter or any other signs of water intrusion.
3. Check each hose connection to see that it is at least hand tight. It is an essential check after service or reassembly and a good check to make occasionally after that.
4. Next, watertight checks are also very easy to perform and check the integrity of the second stage housing. Connect the regulator to a tank and without turning on the air (or if you have a good tight dust cap you can use that instead) draw a breath on the second stage and hold it for a few seconds. Do not draw too hard as it will collapse the exhaust valves and cause a leak. Does the regulator hold vacuum? If so, then it is probably watertight.
5. Check for air leaks by putting regulator on a tank and with the pressure on, first listen to any leaks, but the definite answer comes by submerging all parts of the regulator in a water tub or similar container. Check the first stage, the second stages, the pressure gauge, and all the hoses with special attention to all the fittings. Check around any hose connections as well as all around the first stage and out the mouthpiece of all second stages for small bubbles.
6. Intermediate pressure check. Get a scuba regulator intermediate pressure gauge: Intermediate Pressure Gauge Plugs Into The BCD Quick Disconnect Hose from LeisurePro.com
Find out what the IP range should be for your regulator (most are ~ 135 +/- 10 psi.) Connect your regulator to a tank and open the tank valve. Connect the IP gauge to the LP inflator hose, and lightly press the purge a few times to "cycle" the regulator.
The intermediate pressure should dip whenever the air is flowing, and immediately return to the acceptable range and remain steady. If it tends to climb (creep) that indicates there is a problem with the first stage that must be corrected. It's not a bad idea to leave the regulator pressurized with the IP gauge connected for several minutes to check for slow IP creep.
7. Another check is the cracking pressure of each second stage. Partially fill your kitchen sink and immerse the pressurized regulator with the mouthpiece up. Air should begin to flow before the regulator gets more than 1 1/2 inches deep. If the mouthpiece is submerged before the regulator starts to flow, the cracking pressure is probably too high.
8. A tiny bit more advanced, remove second stage diaphragm cover to inspect for any corrosion, damage, sand or any other contaminants. Clean sand and contaminants as necessary. On some regulators it is very easy to open and inspect second stages, but not all. It is a good idea to learn how to open your second stage to clean it. Note: If you do not feel comfortable opening up your second stage, this step can be omitted.
These simple checks can be done by anyone. They should be done prior to any dive trip, not to mention when new out of the box or after shop service.
Check early, check often.
Some very good sources of information:
Vance Harlow's (Oxyhacker on Scuba Board and elsewhere) "SCUBA Regulator Maintenance Repair." SCUBA REGULATOR MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR by Vance Harlow
The Scuba Tools book, "Regulator Savvy" Scuba Tools
I (we) hope this helps.
Regulator checklist and inspection: Here are a few checks that everyone is capable of doing.
1. Inspect for external corrosion or physical damage to any parts including hoses. Pay particular attention to the hose to fitting interface for any signs of damage.
2. Inspect the first stage inlet filter for discoloration, particulate matter or any other signs of water intrusion.
3. Check each hose connection to see that it is at least hand tight. It is an essential check after service or reassembly and a good check to make occasionally after that.
4. Next, watertight checks are also very easy to perform and check the integrity of the second stage housing. Connect the regulator to a tank and without turning on the air (or if you have a good tight dust cap you can use that instead) draw a breath on the second stage and hold it for a few seconds. Do not draw too hard as it will collapse the exhaust valves and cause a leak. Does the regulator hold vacuum? If so, then it is probably watertight.
5. Check for air leaks by putting regulator on a tank and with the pressure on, first listen to any leaks, but the definite answer comes by submerging all parts of the regulator in a water tub or similar container. Check the first stage, the second stages, the pressure gauge, and all the hoses with special attention to all the fittings. Check around any hose connections as well as all around the first stage and out the mouthpiece of all second stages for small bubbles.
6. Intermediate pressure check. Get a scuba regulator intermediate pressure gauge: Intermediate Pressure Gauge Plugs Into The BCD Quick Disconnect Hose from LeisurePro.com
Find out what the IP range should be for your regulator (most are ~ 135 +/- 10 psi.) Connect your regulator to a tank and open the tank valve. Connect the IP gauge to the LP inflator hose, and lightly press the purge a few times to "cycle" the regulator.
The intermediate pressure should dip whenever the air is flowing, and immediately return to the acceptable range and remain steady. If it tends to climb (creep) that indicates there is a problem with the first stage that must be corrected. It's not a bad idea to leave the regulator pressurized with the IP gauge connected for several minutes to check for slow IP creep.
7. Another check is the cracking pressure of each second stage. Partially fill your kitchen sink and immerse the pressurized regulator with the mouthpiece up. Air should begin to flow before the regulator gets more than 1 1/2 inches deep. If the mouthpiece is submerged before the regulator starts to flow, the cracking pressure is probably too high.
8. A tiny bit more advanced, remove second stage diaphragm cover to inspect for any corrosion, damage, sand or any other contaminants. Clean sand and contaminants as necessary. On some regulators it is very easy to open and inspect second stages, but not all. It is a good idea to learn how to open your second stage to clean it. Note: If you do not feel comfortable opening up your second stage, this step can be omitted.
These simple checks can be done by anyone. They should be done prior to any dive trip, not to mention when new out of the box or after shop service.
Check early, check often.
Some very good sources of information:
Vance Harlow's (Oxyhacker on Scuba Board and elsewhere) "SCUBA Regulator Maintenance Repair." SCUBA REGULATOR MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR by Vance Harlow
The Scuba Tools book, "Regulator Savvy" Scuba Tools
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