My Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro with their Sonic Pad...

[The Chairman]

I bought this printer over a year ago and it's had spotty success. I had a problem with my Tevo Tornado that I finally traced down to OctoPrint, Marlin, and the board interface. I installed the Sonic Pad, ran it's program on my printer and all I got was dots on my little screen. DOTS!!! I did this, adjusted that, scratched my head and finally saw a video where they told me that this was normal. Jeez Louise. I was really stressing on that. I discarded that little display, reloaded the printer and voila! That's French for lookee here! I really, really like Klipper over Marlin, and out of the box, it's noticeably faster with a better finish. Not perfect, so today I thought I would give their g-sensor a try. I printed two g-sensor mounts. One is for the hot end and the other is for the bed. I took care to set the printing of the bed mount towards the front, so as to avoid any printhead collisions. I also used 3/4 of a can of White Rain to glue that puppy down. I took pains to carefully drill and tap the hot end sensor to accept M3 screws. Yeah. That didn't really work. On the first try, I found the sensor hanging loose.

We're gonna neeed a bigger bolt!​

No use in going further, so I rebooted the Sonic Pad and used longer cap headed bolts and nuts on the bottom. Stage one was successful, so I set up for the second and final stage of this calibration.

Screwed, glued, and taped for solid performance!

I guess we'll see how much better she performs in the coming days!

 

[The Chairman]

OK, the base is far, far nicer, and is now as smooth as a baby's but with no sanding. But I'm still getting bigger lines the higher up I go, and they're mostly on the Y axis. I need to check screws and if they are tight, then I need tower braces!

So, calibrating with the g-sensor works. I'll run that again after I brace the tower.

Here are the files I used:

Creality Sonic Pad - G-Sensor Bed Mount (clip on) by CrazyB86
Creality - Sonic Pad - Sensor Bracket by csantos07​

 

[The Chairman]

I also went through and tightened the tower bolts. Two of them were loose. This is a spool holder I designed and printed. Absolutely no artifacts and it's printed at standard (2.0), not fine(1.2).

 

[davehicks]

Thanks for the inspiration to look into the SonicPad. It looks like a great upgrade to my Ender 3 S1. The wireless printing and potential for speed improvements look amazing. I just put in a order for one. Any tips on using it effectively would be appreciated.

 

[The Chairman]

You'll be restarting firmware and the device many, many times. You'll get through and it will be awesome.

 

[The Chairman]

This printer is still rocking, while I still have an issue with extruding on the bigger one.

Anyway, I've always been impressed with people who print multiple parts together that can articulate. I really wanted to learn how, and my first attempt without benefit of Googling it, turned out fused. I know it didn't have enough clearance, but I don't know how much I should use? The project is a hinged lid for a small well on my mower where I keep my phone. I added a charger and have had a piece of corrugated plastic over it which is really deteriorating. Lots of ways I could skin this cat, but I decided to use a solid pin. After I watched a YouTube on the process, I realized I could have used nubs instead, but If I add some more clearances, I think I can make the uni-pin approach work. So, my second try come out working nicely on my first try.

It cleaned up nicely, and the knob took a 4M flat head screw to attach to the lid as designed. One problem I'm having is excessive strings. I think I have something set to create this. It looks like a spider web! I had enable retraction, so I'll go back and revisit that. Oh yeah, I designed it on Oneshape: Onshape In any event, I'm quite happy with the solid feel and smoothness of it as it does its thing. I'll probably copy this over to another file, shorten the lid side and add three holes to make it into an actual hinge. FWIW, it's bent at the pin for two reasons. One, it gives the part more stability as it gets taller. Two, It's an easier fit onto the build plate when I import it into Cura. If it's all flat, I have to make it diagonal on the plate.

 

[The Chairman]

I forgot to mention that I learned that clearances should be at least twice your layer height. I had originally intended this to use 0.18mm layer height, so I made my clearances 0.40mm. When it came time to slice, I changed the layer height to 0.12mm, so I really had plenty of room. Also, the hinge pin is solid with the bottom piece and I could have made it solid on the top as well. Here is the Onshape rendition of the print on its side.

 

[happy-diver]

Hey, why don't you print me a ScubaBoard Mug, and some stickers, imagine the takers

 

[The Chairman]

I almost have the mug issue solved... almost.

 

[happy-diver]

Absolutely magnificent Boss!

Hey did I tell you I also moved to cave country, but also with an ocean out the front

and you can even see the dent from my discombobulated tib --- fib compound episode

and I'll bet you can still remember the agony

But we're