My 360vr Journey

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Static is for sure easier. If you move the camera array you have to do what's called "adaptive" stitching and a bunch of horizon correction. Since I'm still just learning I figured I'd make life easier on myself and start out static. When it's time to do moving shots I'm mounting it on my SUEX XJoy 37 scooter (the Mfg is going to help me come up with a custom mount). The nice thing about that scooter is it has dial-a-speed so I can go very very slow, and having the inertia from the scooter behind the camera will keep fast wiggly movements (hard to stitch) to a minimum and also be able to do moving shots with the system in a pretty static position on the scooter (the camera not wobbling too and fro like when I handhold it) which should help the vomit-comet effect. Very good moving shots can be done, I'm just still in learning phase. (Check out the LHC video for a great example of moving/walking shots). Remember with all these, they generally only work in YouTube or YouTube app (or other 360 viewer) but will look like an equirectangular video if you play it in the forum.
 
I've been working with 360 underwater for about 2 years part time, ramping it up more in the last 6 months. You have no practical choice but to go AVP/APG tools for adaptive stitching and Metal Skybox tools in Premiere for editing 360 VR content now. I did this original one with FFMPEG and PTGUI and a template batch stitch, but it was painfully tedious and has some parallax errors that AVP would resolve.
 
I've learned that for best stitching in a smaller space you really need a 10 camera array... but for now the v1 H3pro6 will have to do....
Local dive shop in West Seattle...
Actually, the tightest spots are best done in 2-3 220 degree fisheyes on Backbone modified GoPros. Many are doing auto interiors with just two. 10 makes no sense unless you are doing stereo 360, and the parallax errors will be severe with close subjects.
 
Thanks for the info Brian! I wasn't thinking that tight a spot.. A short film I got to be a part of making is currently making the festival rounds was shot with 10 array and there were not noticeable parallax, so that was where my commentary was coming from :) I did not mean tight like cars tho, so very good to know!

Latest from the shallows at Cove 2 :)

 
a couple more from Sunday dive. Vis was pretty bad, around 10' +/-

This was also my first dive with the camera array scooter mounted and testing some lighting techniques. I will follow up on that in another post :)

Please watch in Youtube and at highest resolution for best experience!



also as an aside, if you have a HMD (Head Mounted Display) for viewing but are having a hard time finding the QR code for some of the google cardboard knockoffs... VR Headset QR Codes –
 

Back
Top Bottom