Most durable drysuit material for gold dredging

[GoldDredger]

Hello All!
I'm new to the drysuit game and am looking for the most durable drysuit material. I will be using the suit for gold dredging this winter so durability is my top priority.
I'm leaning towards a tri-lam or vulcanized because where I mine has a LOT of blackberry bushes and I've noticed that my neoprene waders tear more easily then my rubber ones do.
I plan on dredging this winter and during storms so that is why I'm looking for a drysuit instead of a wetsuit.
Socks or boots are a must as I don't want my feet freezing off after 8 hours of mining.
Also I have no ventilation system yet so I will only be mining on the surface with a snorkel.

I really like a Viking Pro someone on Craigslist has for $450 that has only been used one time. I'm about to pull the trigger on it but wanted to get your guys opinion on the matter.
There is also a Mobby's Scuba Drysuit - Like New Mens sz XL that I like but I have read that they went out of business or stopped selling to the US.
Someone up north has a lot of used OS system suits for $300 but description of "most are in good condition" is kinda scaring me off.
Looking for something at $400ish or under.

I would love to hear any advise you all have! Or any reasons I should stay away from the Viking Pro for my uses!
Thanks,
Tyler

 

[KD8NPB]

Make sure you do a leak test on any used drysuit before you purchase it. Plug the wrists with some pop cans, and plug the neck with a football.

Vulcanized suits are easiest to repair in the field, although trilaminates with cordura top layers off the most abrasion & puncture resistance.

 

[Doppler]

... although trilaminates with cordura top layers off the most abrasion & puncture resistance.

Not really. The most durable drysuits are neoprene and the most durable neoprene suits are made by O'Three out of the UK.

However, it appears the OP is looking for something cheap since the application it's to be used for is surface scrabbling.

In that case, I'd go for Viking!

Good luck

 

[GoldDredger]

Thank you both for the information!!

Hey KD8NPB, when you say to leak test it by plugging the wrist and neck seals. Once they are plugged do you put it underwater and look for water that leaked inside after?
Or are the pop cans and football just to test how soft the latex still it?

Thanks

 

[TravisD]

instead of trying to push a huge balloon under the surface, you can also use soapy water in a spray bottle. Search YouTunbe for drysuit leak test and you'll find many examples. Like this: DOGTV - The 'dough boy/michelin man' leak test - YouTube

Some recommend doing the inflation/testing with the suit inside out. This can help pinpoint leaks that may otherwise be masked by overlays, etc. It also lets you mark exactly where the repair is going to happen, which is generally on the inside of the suit.

 

[mala]

neoprene is the way forward.

you get what you pay for buddy.

 

[KD8NPB]

neoprene is the way forward.

you get what you pay for buddy.

Neoprene does have a tremendously long service life. I've seen some 30 year old Unisuits that are still kickin' around. Viking Pro suits seem to go about 15-20 years before the rubber tape on the seams starts to crack and leak.

Thank you both for the information!!

Hey KD8NPB, when you say to leak test it by plugging the wrist and neck seals. Once they are plugged do you put it underwater and look for water that leaked inside after?
Or are the pop cans and football just to test how soft the latex still it?

TravisD got it! Inflate it up, then spray it down with soap. Focus heavily on the zipper and seams, especially the crotch and knees.

Not really. The most durable drysuits are neoprene and the most durable neoprene suits are made by O'Three out of the UK.

However, it appears the OP is looking for something cheap since the application it's to be used for is surface scrabbling.

In that case, I'd go for Viking!

Good luck

http://www.dui-online.com/pdf/tech_myths_of_vulcanized_drysuits.pdf

There's a good chart in there of chemical resistance, puncturing, tearing, abrasion, etc.

Of course they don't mention you can field repair a Viking suit with tire cement...lol.

 

[Mr.X]

You can do like the old timers did - buy some canvas coveralls and wear that over your drysuit. This adds another durable layer over whatever type of drysuit you intend to purchase and blackberry bushes.

And as Doppler mentioned - the O'Three suits are total bruiser suits. Not cheap, but way cool.

When I did some muddy, dirty, contaminated work I used a vulcanized suit. Easy to repair, but if I put coveralls on it - really, really hard to move vs. a trilaminate or other material.

 

[GoldDredger]

Thank you all for the very helpful replies!

So is the Vulcanized rubber suit the least durable suit?(puncture and abrasion) Or is it better than Bi-laminate or Tri-laminate just not Cordura covered tri-lam?
I'll choose durability over mobility any day.
I know that most any drysuit will eventually leak under the extremely harsh conditions I will be working in so I like the idea of the vulcanized being easy to repair.

Mr. X, wearing coveralls over the drysuit is a great idea!! I will try that!

I will diffidently try the "michelin man" test before buying! I've been scouring the internet trying to find a way to inflate it without a scuba BC system? Would a normal air compressor work?

 

[Akimbo]

Drysuits are very delicate by commercial diving standards. We wear coveralls and Wellies over hot water suits to protect them. The same works for drysuits.

Definitely hook a Tee into your umbilical supply and NOT your bailout bottle to equalize the suit.