MK5 Springs + 300 bar fitting

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I wish VDH would do a run of DIN adapters for the MK-5.

If you are really interested in diving MK5s DIN, try awap's brass washer work-around. He's been using it for years. The DIN retainer does not seal at the end in the MK5, so the brass washer is just there to take up some space at the end of the retainer and allow you to torque it successfully without putting any strain on the reg body.

Or just keep looking around ebay, eventually you'll find one.
 
I would start by searching for any posts about it. Awap's posts are still on SB, they're just listed as redacted.
 
From The Master:
Scubapro Din Adapters - Mk5

and From Master Awap via email:

The problem with the universal retainer in a Mk5 is it is just a bit too short. That results in the o-ring being damaged by the body threads and some binding on the saddle when you try to tighten to the specified torque. I simply added a brass washer between the body and the end of the retainer and the problem was solved. It needs about 1mm of added length so start with one washer and torque to 22 ft-lb. If the o-ring stays in good shape then check that the saddle does not bind. If there is damage or binding, add another washer. I also used a Mk 20/25 saddle on one Mk5 but ground some of the plastic off that was causing too much contact with the body.

From the Tiger:
Scubapro Din Adapters - Mk5
 
From The Master:
Scubapro Din Adapters - Mk5

and From Master Awap via email:

The problem with the universal retainer in a Mk5 is it is just a bit too short. That results in the o-ring being damaged by the body threads and some binding on the saddle when you try to tighten to the specified torque. I simply added a brass washer between the body and the end of the retainer and the problem was solved. It needs about 1mm of added length so start with one washer and torque to 22 ft-lb. If the o-ring stays in good shape then check that the saddle does not bind. If there is damage or binding, add another washer. I also used a Mk 20/25 saddle on one Mk5 but ground some of the plastic off that was causing too much contact with the body.

From the Tiger:
Scubapro Din Adapters - Mk5

Do you perhaps know the washer diameter?
 
I tried the SAE number 10 washer trick and it was smaller than the diameter of the DIN.

Should the washer be as wide as the hole?
 
I looked into making some but the price would have been too high and the profit margin way slimmer than I was comfort with. Maybe someone else would have different results?
 
I asked raftingtigger, who also had succes using SS Washers to fit the universal Scubapro Din Fittings.

It's supposed to me a 12mm outer diameter washer in 1 mm with Stainless steel. The Inner diameter doesn't matter since we won't be sealing on the washer. Two might be needed. I will try it tomorrow and update if it worked.
 
I will try it tomorrow and update if it worked.
With pictures please!
 
Since I am currently doing something pretty 'silly' I fear this will take atleast one or two more week before I can try it.

I am currently diving a 50 cuft alu tank which I sling sidemount and use it with the old mk5+ balanced adjustable. It's inspired by the way some people monkey dive but except with buoyancy control and no scooter. I do this mainly for dives where I'm just going through ponds picking up trash or watch the fishies between 2-10 meters. I use a boltsnap on a bungee purely for easy water entries, as soon as I hit the water I use normal bungee. For the trim this works so surprisingly well, I just put one kg of lead in the fenzy pocket, and wear 2kg each side on the belt with a sliding o-ring (stole that idea from the xdeep harnasses) for when the alu gets really floaty. It feels very free and pleasant to dive.
60050020_10216946487445833_505524604291252224_n.jpg


Now while I have been doing this, I started getting a really really slow leak from the ambient chamber.
The horror, the horror I thought, Don't tell me I scratched up the one place in the mk5 that you cant scratch up (where the internal O-ring resides that the piston moves by). So I decided to take it apart, and the o-ring was clearly dead, then for me to discover I have no more mk5 kits lying around.
60613773_334335230459841_5751300820998029312_n.jpg

Turns out these are quite hard to source in Belgium so I had to order it via Brian from VDH.
Which means it could take anywhere between 2-3 weeks before I can try it.

But couv, I promise, when I finally get to it, it will be with a nice report with multiple pictures!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom