Thanks for the tip I changed diode to BAT85 (replacement for BAT42) but it didn't help
I'm slowly out of options, circuit seems to be simple and I think that I made no mistake. Only difference now is that I'm using 74HC132N instead 74AC132N but I don't know the difference between them.
Thing that wonders me is that red diode is not going down when green diode blinks - how should it work?
It shouldn't matter do you use HC or AC version because they are both high speed, low voltage CMOS Schmidt NAND gates, with working voltage of 2-6V.
What you might have is a bad chip or component, or a failure in wiring/orientation of a certain component - check the circuit and the IC separatelly if you can, or replace it with another one.
BTW green led should light up when the dongle is activated by the driver and red should go on and green off when you connect the Puck.
Then, during the communication, both blink in accordance to data being transmitted.
---------- Post added March 20th, 2014 at 01:06 PM ----------
I made mine a few days ago, and as always, the mechanical part was the biggest pain in the....beehind...
I used a crocodile-type contact clip for AV meter, the largest I could find (it opens up enough to grip over a car battery poles) and then had to do some drilling and filing of the "teeth" it has in order to avoid it scratching my Puck Pro's casing.
On the tip of it (one side) I glued a piece of spongy insulator (3mm thick, quite sticky, has very tiny holes, and feels quite rubbery, reminds me of a neopren which can be used as well).
For the other tip of the clip, where the contacts are, I used a plastic cap for DVI cable. I drilled two holes in it and put two gold-plated, V-shaped springy contacts from an old battery charger that died. Then I filled it all with "liquid plastic" keeping the contacts in place with thin, long screw.
While the plastic was solidifying, I drilled a 2mm hole in the tip of the clip and put a small screw for metal that has a steep angle of it's thread, that would allow me to screw it into the "liquid" plastic when it's cool.
Afterwards, I used SMD blower to heat all of the plastic and re-melt it to a point so that the screw and the contacts are both nicely surrounded with the "liquid" plastic. Left it to cool completely and prepared the cable, which then I pulled through the hole on the back of the clip and wired it to the contacts, watching what end goes where, since it is important not to confuse data pin with ground on the Puck.
The electronics I made on a 2x3cm PCB board of my design, using regular components (didn't have all of them as SMD and couldn't be bothered to go hunting for them in electronics shops around the town). It connects to USB2serial board with short 6-wire ribbon cable and before putting it all in the case, I've tested everything with Mares's software - worked nice.
Because USB2serial board has the USB connector wired, both boards are kind of clunky and big so I decided to use regular USB cable and wire it over the USB connector on the USB2serial board. That allowed me to shorten the data cable and have a long USB cable, using at the same time the case for the electronics as I see fit.
In the end, I've put both boards, insulated with some tape, in a smallest box I could find, in which I've drilled four holes - one for USB cable, one for data cable that goes to the Puck and two for LEDs. Glued the electronics inside, put some insulating sponge inside the box and closed.
Final test with Mares's software and Subsurface - works like a charm.
I'll post the pics of the clip soon, because mechanics IS the most problematic part as always for us DIY-ers...
