Shipwreckscanada
Contributor
Im looking into purchasing 2 new 100cf aluminum cylinders. How many dives a year should I be doing to make this purchase make sense?
looking into purchasing cylinders
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Scared Silly
Contributor
I am not a fan of 100cf Al. While neutral when empty the are heavy, 46lbs. Given you are diving colder waters I would suggest a HP100, lighter with just as good of buoyancy characteristics.
OP
Shipwreckscanada
Contributor
Is the maintenance between aluminum and steel the same?
Nice Avatar Scared Silly by the way, is it a nudibranch?
Nice Avatar Scared Silly by the way, is it a nudibranch?
mike_s
Contributor
I've got to agree.... I'm not a fan of the AL100's either. heavy.
I'd follow the suggestion of a HP100 or a LP95 perhaps if you don't want the HP100.
What's the difference in steel vs aluminum? nothing really. Just rinse them off.
At hydro time, if they don't clean/dry them in a prompt manner, they can develop "flash rust" in steel tanks.... You have to tumble the steel tanks to get rid of this. Typically this might have to be done only around hydro time or any time you get excessive moisture in the tank.
I'd follow the suggestion of a HP100 or a LP95 perhaps if you don't want the HP100.
What's the difference in steel vs aluminum? nothing really. Just rinse them off.
At hydro time, if they don't clean/dry them in a prompt manner, they can develop "flash rust" in steel tanks.... You have to tumble the steel tanks to get rid of this. Typically this might have to be done only around hydro time or any time you get excessive moisture in the tank.
idive2
Contributor
Yeah, you don't see that AL100 tank often kind of an uncommon tank. If you
have a very specific reason for wanting one that's one thing but a steel tank
would probably work out better if you are cold water diving. Also if you decided to
get rid of it there is a much greater demand for some of the more standard size
steel tanks. The part about purchasing making sense depends on what value you
put on the convenience of having your own. I dive enough to make owning them
worth the while but even if I dove less I would still own for the convenience.
have a very specific reason for wanting one that's one thing but a steel tank
would probably work out better if you are cold water diving. Also if you decided to
get rid of it there is a much greater demand for some of the more standard size
steel tanks. The part about purchasing making sense depends on what value you
put on the convenience of having your own. I dive enough to make owning them
worth the while but even if I dove less I would still own for the convenience.
It's not so much a matter of number of dives per year, it's a matter of personal convenience.
You have to ask yourself:
"Have there been times when owning my own cylinders would have been a lot more convenient?"
For instance, have you wanted to do a lot of dives on Sundays but the dive shop is closed?
OP
Shipwreckscanada
Contributor
What's the difference in steel vs aluminum? nothing really. Just rinse them off.
At hydro time, if they don't clean/dry them in a prompt manner, they can develop "flash rust" in steel tanks.... You have to tumble the steel tanks to get rid of this. Typically this might have to be done only around hydro time or any time you get excessive moisture in the tank.[/QUOTE]
I did some homework on your suggestion of going steel rather than aluminum. I’m sold on the steel. I also noticed that there can be a rust issue with steel as you made reference to. Should this influence my choice?
I also noticed that there is only a $50.00 difference between the 100cf and 120cf is the 20cf difference worth going for?
At hydro time, if they don't clean/dry them in a prompt manner, they can develop "flash rust" in steel tanks.... You have to tumble the steel tanks to get rid of this. Typically this might have to be done only around hydro time or any time you get excessive moisture in the tank.[/QUOTE]
I did some homework on your suggestion of going steel rather than aluminum. I’m sold on the steel. I also noticed that there can be a rust issue with steel as you made reference to. Should this influence my choice?
I also noticed that there is only a $50.00 difference between the 100cf and 120cf is the 20cf difference worth going for?
Scared Silly
Contributor
As said very little difference if you keep water out of them
As for the 120cf vs 100cf look at the buoyancy, dry weight, and length. The 120 is about 5 lbs heavier and 4" longer for some the length can be a factor. If you suck air like there is not tomorrow it might be a good choice. Me I would stick with the 100 as they are a nice package and if I need more I have my doubles kit.
Thanks. My avatar is a reaction - diffusion pattern that is similar to the area around the eye of the Papua Toby Puffer Fish (Canthigaster papua) found in the Western Pacific region. It was from research I did in mathematical biology and pattern formation (i.e. How does a tiger get its stripes?)
OP
Shipwreckscanada
Contributor
As said very little difference if you keep water out of them
As for the 120cf vs 100cf look at the buoyancy, dry weight, and length. The 120 is about 5 lbs heavier and 4" longer for some the length can be a factor. If you suck air like there is not tomorrow it might be a good choice. Me I would stick with the 100 as they are a nice package and if I need more I have my doubles kit.
Thanks. My avatar is a reaction - diffusion pattern that is similar to the area around the eye of the Papua Toby Puffer Fish (Canthigaster papua) found in the Western Pacific region. It was from research I did in mathematical biology and pattern formation (i.e. How does a tiger get its stripes?)
Ok, I am kind of an air hog. I need more practice to get better. So I’m sold on a 120cf steel Cylinder
I know it weighs more but I will simply remove weights from my weight pouches. I have one more question.
Are all steel cylinder manufactures created equal?
Scared Silly
Contributor
Notice I only said the cylinders weighs more but the buoyancy of the 120 is about the same as the 100. So you will have to schlep more weight to the dive site but once in the water there will be little difference between the two. That is if the cylinders are the HP 3442psi, Faber makes a MP3180+ series that is heavier and is very negatively buoyant. These are fine for cold water singles for those who need a lot of weight.
When it comes to steel the basic cylinder construction is the for all intents and purposes the same but you have two choices in coating. Worthington uses a hot dripped galvanization process, while Faber uses a galvanization plus epoxy painting. Both have their pros and cons - do a search as it does get discussed.
I like the Faber myself as I think the overall package, weight, buoyancy is better.
Some references:
Faber Cylinder Specifications
Worthington Cylinder Specifications
When it comes to steel the basic cylinder construction is the for all intents and purposes the same but you have two choices in coating. Worthington uses a hot dripped galvanization process, while Faber uses a galvanization plus epoxy painting. Both have their pros and cons - do a search as it does get discussed.
I like the Faber myself as I think the overall package, weight, buoyancy is better.
Some references:
Faber Cylinder Specifications
Worthington Cylinder Specifications
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