Looking for opinions on new dry suit

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I agree the giant Aqualung logo of the 2018 model year bullets are a bit gaudy but it is only on one shoulder panel and a fist size one on the back that gets covered by a backplate/bcd for most of the time the suit is being worn.

The new models are air-core which are somewhat breathable when not submerged. Perhaps, if the air temp is not too hot, after a dive, put some some air in the suit and wear it for a bit will help the perspiration vapor pass through the breathable membrane....I will have to test this out with mine...currently the air and water temp here are such that I can get away with thin fleece pants with a columbia fleece pullover with a polypro shirt underneath and thick wool socks. When I tested my suit with a the Fusion Thermal undersuit I bought, the inside of the undersuit was dry but the outside of it was quite damp and so was the inside of my bullet.

To dry, I hang my suit from the ceiling in the garage using one of those hangars that support the suit by the ankles (I have fusion boots velcro'ed to my suit)...the flap with the neck seal hangs low to the ground when unzipped...I then take a floor fan like the one depicted below (36cm diameter) angled upwards and it sort of fits perfectly in the opening of the suit and blows a good amount of air throughout the suit. It well but I need to design some kind of conduit that drapes over the fan and inserts into the chest of the suit so I don't need to hold the suit in place over the fan. I think some fabric and a wide cardboard tube like those used to pour cement for fence posts might work. Currently it still works if I am not holding the suit opening over the fan but it works much better when I do.

41WNG79DRDL.jpg

Do you use a BC jacket or a BP/W? I am using a BP/W with a simple hogarthian harness and my straps don't affect the neck ring at all that I can tell. I don't spend a lot of time standing idly in my rig due to upper back and neck problems but recently dove a quarry where each group had a specific entry time and had to stand around suited up at the waters edge on a dock for nearly 30 minutes...I did not notice the neck ring at all....ymmv of course.

I believe that the changeable neck system is big change to get used to for anyone switching from a suit with standard latex seals glued in.

The only things I don't like about my bullet, after a bit over 2 months of diving it, is how long it takes for the neoprene over skin to dry and the mesh duffel bag that aqualung included is ridiculously small and cumbersome to use to stow the suit in after a dive.... I don't like laying my suit on the ground to roll up to fit in the bag so I re-purposed one of these that I had lying around:

BPK1029-USGI-Pilots-Kit-Bag-Main_2d742c75-b3cc-48f3-9f7d-bc4f0657896f_300x_crop_bottom.jpg


Sorry your suit is not working out for you, perhaps in time it will redeem itself.

-Z
 
Simple practical advice from a twenty-year SoCal drysuit Diver. . .

This is the best drysuit post-dive maintenance "dryer" solution that I've been using for the past fifteen years (forced option heated-air fan "wader" type dryer):

DryGuy - WADER ADAPTOR

As for a new Drysuit, get a either lightweight fast drying flexible trilaminate like a DUI TLS350 or Flex Extreme and layer with choice of thermal undergarments (or as wanted, premium heated thermal undergarments if you win the lottery), or heavy duty CLX450 or CF200 if you're going into wrecks or reaching into rocky holes for lobster hunting. All should be front-entry, self-donning, shoulder to hip zipper with telescoping torso and optional Zip Seals & P-valve.

A telescoping torso gives you the option of using DUI Zip-seal dry gloves using this self-donning technique:

Or alternatively, consider aftermarket hard-ring dry glove systems like Kubi for easier convenience of putting on, better durability and less prone to "weeping" leakage over time and usage than DUI's Zip-Seal System.

Hi,

I'm looking for opinions on a new dry suit. I have been diving with a Bare Nex Gen Pro for many years now, and it is time to upgrade. Although it has been a great suit, it has always been a little small for me which limits mobility and it has a back entry zipper, which I haven't ever been a big fan of. It's time for something that finally fits me properly and is easy to get into and out of.

Almost all of my diving does, and will take place in the cold waters of the Great Lakes. I'm just shy of 6' 1" and 225 lbs.

I have been eyeballing the Whites Fusion dry suits, but as with all things, opinions seems to vary. I am very open to all suggestions and opinions. I'd obviously like something that is rugged enough for the Great Lakes deep, dark, and cold waters.

My budget for a new suit is $2,000 or (preferably) less.

Thanks for any help that you can give.

Chad

Best off-the-rack, non-custom/non-tailored fit and most economical model offer IMHO (with optional added P-valve):
https://www.techdivinglimited.com/OMS-SAN-DIEGO-DRY-SUIT-p/ds-oms-sandiego.htm
 
After watching people dive with zipseals, I am happy with my choice of Kubi.
the ability to put them on last, have normal fingers until just before jump time, love it.
 
After trying several types of dryglove systems with mixed success I now use simple pullover gloves which provide much greater dexterity and cost just a few dollars when I need to replace. Had no leakage since going with the pullover gloves and in cold Great Lakes waters that is a great plus.
 
After trying several types of dryglove systems with mixed success I now use simple pullover gloves which provide much greater dexterity and cost just a few dollars when I need to replace. Had no leakage since going with the pullover gloves and in cold Great Lakes waters that is a great plus.

Greater dexterity than what?

I have Kubi rings. The gloves for them are readily available at around $2/pair and give excellent dexterity. I wouldn't really want them to be any thinner.

And they are super easy to don and doff with no help.
 
After trying several types of dryglove systems with mixed success I now use simple pullover gloves which provide much greater dexterity and cost just a few dollars when I need to replace. Had no leakage since going with the pullover gloves and in cold Great Lakes waters that is a great plus.
That's the most economical dry glove solution -however you have to get used to "dryglove hand squeeze" if you don't manage to equalize the glove air space (i.g. shock cord under the wrist seal, etc).
 
Greater dexterity than what?

I have Kubi rings. The gloves for them are readily available at around $2/pair and give excellent dexterity. I wouldn't really want them to be any thinner.

And they are super easy to don and doff with no help.
Greater dexterity than the blue smurfs that are so common. As to getting them on I have a system that makes them self donning with no help. It cost me $3.00 to make the device which compares very favourably to the Kubi system.
 
That's the most economical dry glove solution -however you have to get used to "dryglove hand squeeze" if you don't manage to equalize the glove air space (i.g. shock cord under the wrist seal, etc).
I use the wrist loops from the underwear, I am not talking about the gloves with seals attached but gloves that go over the rings used for the replaceable wrist seal system.
 
That's the most economical dry glove solution -however you have to get used to "dryglove hand squeeze" if you don't manage to equalize the glove air space (i.g. shock cord under the wrist seal, etc).

I always wonder about this. I went to 200 feet in my drysuit, with wrist seals in place and Kubi dry gloves on. And nothing to break the seal at the wrist. Stayed dry. Never noticed any feeling of squeeze on my hands.
 
Glove squeeze starts around 60' for me, is noticeable by 100' but has never been troublesome. Have not squeezed them deeper. Adding the vent does take off the squeeze and adds to the comfort. Never had cold hands either way (only used into the 50s). I try to add the vents if going below 60' but if I leave them out it isn't that big of a deal.

But where I have almost gotten into trouble is if I burp some air into the glove. Get one hand a little high and the bubble goes up the arm. The wrist seal is an effective check valve. I have surfaced with a highly inflated glove that would be very close to non-functional if any more air had entered. I could always pop the bubble (break the seal or if really despirate get the knife and poke a hole in it). Not ideal. But something that you should be aware of if you don't vent the wrist seals with dry gloves.

The two times I holed a glove, I was unvented. So that worked out nice.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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