Looking at purchasing a Boston Whaler Montauk170 or possibly new model 190
- Thread starter jbm
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mike_s
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Do a google search on "state trailer laws" and you'll find all kinds of info on how long your trailer can be, etc..
http://www.boatus.com/towing/towlaw.htm & http://www.glen-l.com/designs/trailer/trailer-laws.html are two examples of what it found.
However, most cops could care less about enforcing trailer laws, but you ahve some that have nothing better to do than to pick on someone from out of state.
For example in my state you have to have brakes for a trailer weighing 3,000 or more. Mine weighed more than that and I didn't have brakes and never got checked.
http://www.boatus.com/towing/towlaw.htm & http://www.glen-l.com/designs/trailer/trailer-laws.html are two examples of what it found.
However, most cops could care less about enforcing trailer laws, but you ahve some that have nothing better to do than to pick on someone from out of state.
For example in my state you have to have brakes for a trailer weighing 3,000 or more. Mine weighed more than that and I didn't have brakes and never got checked.
Mine is a 1995 20 cc, the new ones are to rich for my blood and the first time a tank hits the glass it will be a lot easier to forgive myself LOL. Anyway I had the boat out with 3 divers and 1 bubble watcher on the ocean with 6 foot sea and had no problem with the boat but us divers sure had a time with the surf. I am figure 4 dives comfortablle and I would max out with 5-6 divers. I have room for 12 tanks with the racks and ample deck space for gear. Also has a 265HP inboard.
Good links......Looks like I may be pushing the envelope as far as LOA goes. I'm guessing that if a person really had to, they could buy an over-lengh permit at the first scalehouse when entering the state....or, as I am more apt to do.....just try and finesse your way to your destination without attracting attention.
Thanks for the links! Now I have the phone numbers to call each state I intend to travel through.
jbm
Thanks for the links! Now I have the phone numbers to call each state I intend to travel through.
jbm
There some first-hand discussion of the Montauk 190 at
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/012074.html
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/012074.html
That website has good info especially if your looking at older boats. It is moderated by the Soup Nazi. No soup for you if your interested in the newer Whalers. Hopefully you will get to see a few and look them over before making up your mind.
I assume your aware that Boston Whalers are made from a female mold that the hull is layed up in. Then a male plug is lowered into mold containing the inner liner and deck and then foam is injected into the hull clean up to the top of the gunwale completing a monolithic structural unit of foam and glass, a single piece hull in and out. The foam is actually a structural member. There are no stringers or beams or such as that as is found in most other boats. This reults in an unsinkable and extremely solid boat. Heavier than most also as a result but not that much heavier. Newer Whalers have less wood content, improved foam and improved techniques gained from many years of practice building this way. Because the boat must stay in the mold while it cures or partially cures this results in a slower rate of production which among other things is why Whalers cost more than many other boats. There are other ways to build a quality boat, this is a proven method that virtually only Boston Whaler uses and perhaps a very few others. N
I assume your aware that Boston Whalers are made from a female mold that the hull is layed up in. Then a male plug is lowered into mold containing the inner liner and deck and then foam is injected into the hull clean up to the top of the gunwale completing a monolithic structural unit of foam and glass, a single piece hull in and out. The foam is actually a structural member. There are no stringers or beams or such as that as is found in most other boats. This reults in an unsinkable and extremely solid boat. Heavier than most also as a result but not that much heavier. Newer Whalers have less wood content, improved foam and improved techniques gained from many years of practice building this way. Because the boat must stay in the mold while it cures or partially cures this results in a slower rate of production which among other things is why Whalers cost more than many other boats. There are other ways to build a quality boat, this is a proven method that virtually only Boston Whaler uses and perhaps a very few others. N
There's plenty of info on newer whalers there, just ask in the right line (the post-classicNemrod:
forum). Just like you shouldn't ask about solo diving in the solo diving forum here, not
the DIR forum. ;-)
BTW, one thing that would make the 190 much more interesting is that it has an under-
deck gas tank, which will make for a lot more deck space. There are rumors that this
will show up in the 170 too.
Chuck
There is a downside to a Boston Whaler in my opinion and it is the repairability of a significant damage. Now, please know, I am not talking about the typical bumps and bangs that any boat must endure in use or even some of those that make your teeth gnash and face grimmice. No, I am talking about a significant whamo with a solid object affecting a large area of the hull. If the hull is significantly deflected the foam will crush inward. When the glass springs back it could leave a void even if the outer hull appears to be relatively undamaged. This is called delamination in the aircraft industry. Now the hull is not suported by the foam which by design in a Boston Whaler is structural!!!!!!! The unsuppored hull section can then fail--sooner or later. Now the good new is even if it fails, you will NOT SINK. But, your going to have a booboo in your pretty boat. Well can it be fixed, maybe. Well, any boat would fail if it hit a solid object HARD and I emphasize HARD , yes and it might even sink so I guess it is even steven but I think it easier to repair a conventioanl glass hull to which access to both sides can be easily achieved. Now, again, I am not talking about a small bump or a small area being damaged even if punched through, I am talking about something significant that would affect a large area of the underlying foam, square feet, not square inches.
Has this proven to be a problem in the real world with Boston Whalers--NO. Does it rarely happen--YES. Most will say that the overall solidity and strength and unsinkable nature of a Boston Whaler makes up for it. I think so, resale over the years seems to prove it. There is no prefect boat, in fact, there is no perfect anything, just compromises. N
Has this proven to be a problem in the real world with Boston Whalers--NO. Does it rarely happen--YES. Most will say that the overall solidity and strength and unsinkable nature of a Boston Whaler makes up for it. I think so, resale over the years seems to prove it. There is no prefect boat, in fact, there is no perfect anything, just compromises. N
It's quite repairable. See http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/whalerRepair.html
Voids can be found by tapping -- they will sound quite hollow.
Voids can be found by tapping -- they will sound quite hollow.
Chuck, so that Conquest with the open hull and about 3X6 feet of glass peeled away exposing the foam and water getting into the foam and all those folks on the Soup Nazi site are all--uh--wet? Just how would you ever insure the water was removed from the foam--uh--the water that got into it as you made way back to dock with a significant portion of the outer hull peeled away? Now, most boats would sink, not a Boston Whaler, no way--but ---repairable---if you say so. I don't want it, soaked with water. You can fix almost anything, do you want to is the question. Sorry, but we dissagree on this one. The excerpt below is from the artical linked to above. You will NOTE that the words are clearly included----ABOVE THE WATERLINE. Please see that and then know that I am talking about a large area of damage below the waterline that would allow significant intrusion of water into the foam.
"Since the hull of a Boston Whaler is constructed in a unique and patented way, the factory has provided special instructions for making repairs to this structure. In this article, XXXXXXXX and I demonstrate the factory-recommend method to repair damage to a Boston Whaler. Because of the prominent chine line of the hull, the damage shown here is likely to be among the most common above-the-waterline damage situations on a Whaler."
I actually read stuff and small details like "above the waterline" catch my attention. Now you may please offer an artical for below the waterline repairs if you like but I don't think I want a saturated Whaler, no thanks. You guys fuss over water in the hull, I think that Conquest has some water in the hull and I don't think your gonna get it out of there easily. If I am wrong then great.
No soup for you!
To he fellow that started this thread, do you need to worry about this--no---unless your buying a used boat, if so then you better get it from a reputable place and get a survey--that goes for ALL BOATS. Lot's of damaged boats on the market after the storms. N
"Since the hull of a Boston Whaler is constructed in a unique and patented way, the factory has provided special instructions for making repairs to this structure. In this article, XXXXXXXX and I demonstrate the factory-recommend method to repair damage to a Boston Whaler. Because of the prominent chine line of the hull, the damage shown here is likely to be among the most common above-the-waterline damage situations on a Whaler."
I actually read stuff and small details like "above the waterline" catch my attention. Now you may please offer an artical for below the waterline repairs if you like but I don't think I want a saturated Whaler, no thanks. You guys fuss over water in the hull, I think that Conquest has some water in the hull and I don't think your gonna get it out of there easily. If I am wrong then great.
No soup for you!
To he fellow that started this thread, do you need to worry about this--no---unless your buying a used boat, if so then you better get it from a reputable place and get a survey--that goes for ALL BOATS. Lot's of damaged boats on the market after the storms. N
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