Light Monkey Tinkle Valve + Whites Fusion: What to do with the skin?

[TSandM]

The important part of the install is on the dry core. Cutting an appropriate-sized hole, and using rubber gasket material, will give you a good, waterproof grip on the dry core. You CAN just leave the sport skin uncut, or you can cut a small hole in it to allow you to access the cap on the p-valve. If you do the latter, be sure to cut the hole FAR smaller than you think will work. The skin stretches a great deal. I would also highly recommend either burning the hole in the first place, or doing something to reinforce the walls so the unraveling cannot continue.

 

[MikeWebb]

Just installed a light monkey "tinkle valve" (men don't tinkle BTW) yesterday onto my bullet fusion. The longest part was taking and putting the skin back on.

I removed the skin and installed the inflator and shoulder dumb. I put the dry core on, worked out where I want the valve. marked it then dressed out. Then I put a board in the leg and flattened out the core material and placed the calve end (cap removed) over the spot and drew around it. Using a new scaple knife I cut a hole well within the drawn circle then singed the edge with a soldering iron (don't know if this needed but it helped widen the hole just a little bit). I think most people use a hole punch, looks like it would be easier but I don't have one and managed fine.

I had a little gasket I cut from a blown silicon seal (happens) to suit the tinkle valve. I put the gasket over the valve body abd pushed that through the drycore hole. it was a snug fit but wide enough to allow the locking nut to clamp all the way down tight. I put the drycore back on sprayed soapy water over the valve area and inflated like balloon (funny). I stayed like that for a minute with no deflating or bubbles. Leaving the drycore on, I installed the bullet skin (.

With the suit and skin on and adjusted with some ballon inflates and extreme stretches I could see where the valve wants to sit and pop through so I marked it, and burnt a small hole with a soldering iron and stretched the skin over the valve and them screwed the cap on (don't forget the grub screw).

Job done quick and easy (about an hour all up from unscrewing apeks valves to putting the fusion boots back on and back on the hanger) I am yet to dive it but it passed the leak test and feel confident to get it wet. Job done with one gasket and no glues/adhesives etc

 

[TSandM]

I actually haven't needed to remove the skin completely from any of the four suits on which I've installed p-valves. Once the site for the valve is marked, I either undo the velcro at the ankle on that side and slide the skin up, or at worst, undo some of the Velcro at the zipper and pull the dry core up. Taking the whole skin off and putting it back on would significantly complicate the install.

 

[undrwater]

I did the install, and I tried a few of the methods described (you know, just to complicate my life). I ended up with two rubber gaskets made with an inner tube and a hole punch on either side of the dry core. The P-valve then is screwed down onto both gaskets - no adhesives. I used some of the Iron Mend as protection for the hole I punched in the outer shell.

I've dived it twice, and peed once, and no leaks as of yet. It was an interesting experience, that first pee.

I also did not remove the whole skin, just pulled up from the zipper side.