Just got the dc1400

[mikepeluso]

very nice, my friend has the dc1400 too.

do you have any strobe/external lighting mike?

i have the DC 1400 pro ( which comes with the external strobe).

I also posted this under the manufacture form for Sealife:
In Cozumel right now trying out my DC1400 for the first time. Just downloaded my pics from yesterday. The video is awlful when viewed on my computer. Is this because it's HD and computer isn't. If this is the case, will all video transfered to store on my computer - will the HD be lost when I again transfer to a HD CD? The pics are great by the way. Any help is appreciated.

the video wont be the best with out a light, depending on how deep you go. the farther down you are and the farther away from objects you are recording the worse the video will be.

this link is a few videos i took with the DC 1400 back in feb when i first got it. the 2 night dive videos turned out really crappy because i didnt have a light, and was trying to use another cameras light while they took a video.
with out my own light everything was very blue also. next thing on my list is a light/strobe ( light most of the time, and strobe when you take pictures). i have seen a product like that around but not sure if it will be compatible with my camera.
Coz 2012 Vid - YouTube

i have 10 videos from roatan i havent put together into one video yet.... next thing on my list of things to do..... some of the video from roatan was really ****ty tho, again with out a light i dont like the way it shoots video for the most part.

 

[Dom Perignon]

Hello SemiAquatic,

I'm curious to see how you rigged the spotter and how well it worked out.

For night dives I managed to rig my iTorch plus onto the strobe of my Sealife DC1200 with a piece of wood and a couple of silicone straps (see picture: not pretty but it works and cost next to nothing).

I capped it with a cone I plucked from a 10$ Fantasea tank light that holds a red filter (to avoid scaring away the critters). The iTorch plus does not have the auto shut off feature, but I found that if I leave the iTorch at its lowest power setting it did not affect the picture.



The filter cone can be pulled off (its held by a retaining collar) when I want to do video. That works ok but not great. The beam of the iTorch is strong so colors light good, but it's not wide enough to cover the field of view. I'm looking for a lens that could be swapped in to expand it.

I made the arm with loc-lines (thanks to useful info from another thread on SB) and a broom clamp! Yup, I prefer to spend my $ on dive trips than on expensive gear.

For those up in Canada, I found World Tools (in Ontario) had the best prices for Loc-lines. 32$ including shipping for all the parts than I needed (and extras).

Worldtools | Loc-Line Modular Hose, Ridgid & Hand Tools, Machine Shop, Marking Products, Material Handling, Electrical, Safety - Worldtools

 

[ccxx]

SeaLife is coming out with a fisheye wide angle lens for the DC1400 in September, 2012. They say the camera must be set to Macro setting in order to use the lens. I have a DC1200 with a wide angle lens but that lens will not be compatible with the DC1400 --photos wil vignette. I just bought a DC1400 with a strobe so I'm going to combine the strobe from my DC1200 set up with the new strobe for a dual strobe setup. Now I just need to figure a way to carry the video light...maybe detach it from the arm and hand carry it. You can never have too much light, especially if water is not crystal clear. A dual strobe setup will eliminate a lot of the shadowing and dark areas. I started with a DC500 (flooded it), still have a DC600 as a backup and my DC1200 as a new backup and now the DC1400 (and a closet full of film cameras....Nikonos III (which I still use), Sea&See MX10 and I just sold my Nikonos V. Can't find too many places that develop film anymore so why bother...but I still love my Nikonos III for 1:1 macro.

 

[Robert Clare]

I just got the DC1400 as well,, with strobe and Video light. I have had good success with it even at 100 ft. It really all boils down to getting close enough to your target image. the flash is only good to about 4 feet tops at 100 feet, and I try to get within 3.... as for video. You HAVE to have a light, anything under about 45 feet is going to start to look bad unless you have crystal clear water, or a light. Same thing applies with video, gotta be pretty close... 4 to 6 feet if possible I almost forgot to mention. The DC1400 has a really big limitation in it's zoom. you'll always have best success with the camera at it's widest angle.

 

[Keith.M]

I am using the 1400 without a strobe and it seems the video color is actually better than the stills. However, the video is choppy and I am not happy with that. Does anyone have any suggestions in regards to choppy video? Does anyone else experience choppy video? Thanks.

 

[Billunder]

I am using the 1400 without a strobe and it seems the video color is actually better than the stills. However, the video is choppy and I am not happy with that. Does anyone have any suggestions in regards to choppy video? Does anyone else experience choppy video? Thanks.

Hi Keith - you will need to play around with your white balance the colours will come good - The strobe will depend on the available light and clarity of water - strobe is better 2 is even better again,

The chopping in the video is possibly more to do with how you are viewing it / software - trying using moviemaker or similar to watch it. I have only seen it happen to me once and it was about the program because once I loaded it up there was no problem with it. Try putting it on Youtube and see how it is.

The DC1400 can be a struggle and very frustrating at first as are all cameras until you get use to it and find the best settings for your type of photography.

The link below is to my flickr account - it has pictures and movies

Flickr: billunder's Photostream

Good luck hope I have been a help

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ccxx - the DC1400 has a cold foot connection I you use a Tusa torch on top works great but I am sure with little effort you could rig up an attchement to take the video light. Ihave already asked Sealife to have a look at it

Cheers

 

[ccxx]

Well, I don't have to worry about rigging up the video light with 2 flash units since one of the pro flash units died last Saturday on a dive. Works above water, red light won't come on and won't flash underwater. Back to SeaLife for a lookee loo to see if they can determine the problem. I used my new DC1400 with the video light and proflash and the photos were AWESOME, even by me, the amateur photographer. The colors were amazing and I loved the supermacro. It's a matter of trying all the settings to see what does what but OMG, what an improvement even over the DC1200 that I used on the 2nd dive. Even the HD video is amazing....but it takes some practice so you don't get seasickness watching the playback. Holding it still while moving with it is a challenge. Personally, I think the DC1400 is the best camera SeaLife has made and it's my 4th SeaLife camera. Don't try to skimp on the money by not buying the video light or ProFlash...they make all the difference in the world in the quality of your photos and video. Without them, all you have are average photos. I have found that the DC1400 is best for close up shots---within 4 feet. Anything further than that will be green unless you have crystal clear water, which is not the case in the Florida Keys lately since we have had storms and hurricanes go through but close up---AWESOME. I'm still waiting for the fish eye wide angle lens from SeaLife to come out. Needless to say, I am really really pleased with my DC1400 but I use the DC1200 as a back up or when I don't have time to change batteries between dives. If only SeaLife would make a camera battery that lasts longer or maybe have a built in 2nd battery. After 100 shots in a dive, I always get back on the boat with 'low battery'. Oh well.

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