I've been with Ocean Doctor and we're taking another group in December (it's full). Lots of misinformation here but, as usual, Wookie's right on target.
Ocean Doctor is run by Dr. David Guggenheim, an actual scientist (marine biologist). He has the license through the US Treasury Department to conduct trips under the people-to-people, cultural/educational allowance--and his trips are truly educational. David's been working with other marine biologists in the Gardens for years and he's nearing 100 trips to Cuba. He's well-known in the scientific community there and has been an integral part of the studies they're conducting in the marine reserve. We met with multiple scientists while we were in Havana, toured some museums, traveled to a very interesting self-sustaining town in the jungle and, at every turn, were exposed to and spoke with Cuban citizens. It's a wonderful and very eye-opening trip; I had no idea how environmentally-focused the Cubans are. It's a beautiful country populated by very friendly, highly-educated people who are proud of their rich heritage. And, thanks to their government, virtually all of them are extremely poor.
We did spend five days in the Gardens doing two dives per day. It's stunning and I've not seen anything that even approaches its beauty in the Caribbean. Simple as that. We stayed on the Tortuga, which is a "floating hotel" and dove from a tender. Their other boats that have been mentioned as being permanently moored must have loooooooonnnnnggg anchor rodes as they pick you up in Jucaro and motor out to the Gardens. We'll be aboard Avalon II which, when I was there before, was undergoing a complete overhaul and refit--down to stripped metal. Oh, we had several scientists on board with us and, every evening, were provided a presentation and Q&A about various aspects of their work, including and environmental economist--who knew?
Booking a trip is a process and yes, payments must be made directly to the license holder--in this case, Ocean Doctor (a 501(c)(3) organization). It took David years to get his license, it has to be renewed regularly and there are no guarantees that will happen.
Despite rumors to the contrary, US law regarding travel to Cuba has not changed one iota. Rules are strict (you are required to keep a record of every cent you spend while there, for instance), itineraries are not flexible and it is, at times, rather adventurous.
Just wanted to clear the air re: Ocean Doctor and legal travel to Cuba by US Citizens. It's a far cry from a way to skirt any laws and simply go diving in Cuba--it's every bit the cultural and educational experience it's billed to be.
