January 2008 Isla Mujeres Trip report

[scubashawn123]

Remember that I am grateful for all the fresh water opportunities to keep my diving skills up to par in low visibility swamps in this great state of Texas. Every so often it is good to break the routine and get out of the country. This vacation was incredible. I dive and my wife is a non-diver. Our idea of fun is to let me dive in the mornings. While we spend our afternoons together exploring the area, swimming at a beach and snorkeling together checking out pretty tropical fish in a warm tropical environment in pretty tropical water. WOW did we score big on this trip for all the above.

It started with the early morning flight out Saturday morning, short hop to Houston to connect to Cancun. Go through the red green light customs check in at Cancun, find an inexpensive shuttle to Puerta Juarez and walk straight to the Ferry terminal. Boy could American airports learn something from Mexico on the ease of traveling. We then landed in the Ferry terminal of Isla Mujeres. The trip over was warm, sunny and the gorgeous colors of the turquoise and dark blue waters were breathtaking. I so love the Caribbean. There was crystal clear water the trip over to Isla Mujeres by ferry. Just breathtaking in the warm sunlight.

From the time we exited customs, the shuttle ride to Puerta Juarez took about an hour. We got off the ferry with our bags and stopped for a relaxing drink on the water front to enjoy and watch the activity and talk to the locals. The friendliness of the local people was so warm and nice and lasted the entire week on the Island. Palm Trees and pretty white sand beaches surround a major portion of the Island. No crime on this little Island and no time share hassles all week from Mexican Sales people. Due to the fact this was really just a standard Mexican tourist area I found this a really nice change from other resort experiences in Mexico in my past.

After discussing where the Avalon Beach Resort was located we decided to blow off a $2 taxi ride and walk to the resort to check out the town. Of course, I was checking out the many dive shop operations on location I had researched on line before traveling. There were many choices, but basically all going to the same dive sites in the area.

We walked through a short pier to a Northern little island resort with a shallow reef system, and really nice sandy beaches. The weather was really good considering our last trip to Mexico the humidity was higher than the Austin area. This trip there was no real humidity to affect the sweat glands outside.

Check in went nice and we ended up staying in a villa on the property with a balcony on the north end of this little Island attached to the Island of Isla Mujeres. The North side of the Avalon Reef Resort is Rocky and the South end is sandy beaches. I found the on site dive shop Mundaca Divers and set up my dive for the next morning. They were a small operation with 2 small boats on the Island.

My first dive was to get to go to Media Luna Reef on the North side of Isla Mujeres. Due to swells and ocean wave action, I was told this is not frequently dove. The dive operation wanted to use this reef system for the first dive, since we had an instructor and student doing an OW certification dive. The ocean was flat the first day there and one of those amazing moments in dive travel history was about to take place in my life’s experiences.

To be continued………………………………. …………………..



Regards,

Shawn O.

 

[Zinc]

 

[k-valve]

Sounds like a great trip, Shawn!

 

[richerso]

 

[scubashawn123]

Part II


We got up the first morning after a nice relaxing sleep at the resort. You could here the sound of waves crashing at night on the North shore of the little Island resort. Breakfast buffet was part of the package and turned out to be a variety of fresh fruit, pastries, eggs cooked to order, fruit juices and a bunch of pre-made Mexican morning dishes, waffles or pancakes, variety of cereals and coffee. What a selection of tasty food choices. I was not going to lose any weight on this trip.

After my wife and I ate breakfast on the water in an open air area of the restaurant looking at the beautiful Caribbean scenery from our table I grabbed my dive bags and equipment and headed to the little resort dive shack. There I found Alex and Brandy. Alex our young local Mexican Divemaster and Brandy (a young German PADI instructor living in Cancun) getting tanks and weights and equipment ready for our dive day. The dive shack was at the end of a long pier jutting out into the bay towards the Yucatan coastline. The little Pango boat was pulling up with a local Mexican boat captain as we prepared our equipment for the morning dive.

Brandy was instructing Terry from the Midwest on her first open water dive. Alex was our Divemaster. We had another person from Sweden diving with us doing a Scuba Refresher with Alex. The dive operations expected us to carry our gear to the dive boat help load and unload daily. The boat was small (16 footer) and they did not provide water during the diving trips. Terry was extremely late and we got a late start heading to Media Luna reef system on the North side of Isla Mujeres. The water was flat, unlike the day before when we had 1 to 2 foot surf and it was sunny and warm. The boat left the pier and made a right hand turn around the Island to parallel the North shore.

I was suited up in my shorty, and enjoying the blue water colors, looking down you could see the coral formations against the white sand backdrop. When Alex and Brandy shouted out “look over there”. I could see a pod of wild dolphins on the horizon going up and down as they seemed to be getting closer to the boat. Before you knew it they were all around the dive boat. Zipping under the boat, several jumping with the bow of the boat. The captain stopped the boat. Out of instinct everyone grabbed there fins and mask and with the lead of the Divemaster we all jumped in the water the with wild dolphin pod. I have been diving with dolphins showing up before, but not any that played or stuck around. I just floated on the surface watching this incredible show of nature. As I watched them jump and zip around us. I counted 10 dolphins. Two full grown, seeming to be baby sitting 8 children of various smaller sizes. Some of these were the smallest dolphins I have seen with a length of only 2 ½ - 3 feet in length. The dolphins wanted us to chase them. So we did, and one of the dolphin characters kept jumping out of the water in front of us about 100 feet away and smacking its tale on the flat ocean surface. As if to be saying to us, “See me”. It happened all to fast and before you knew it we were quite a distance from the pod. After kicking and losing ground we re-boarded the little boat. About the time we were all sharing our exhilaration back on the boat, the dolphin pod surrounded our boat again as if to tease us, back in the water and off they went the chase was on. Pretty soon they were far off in the distance and we collected the dive group back on the boat. We were the only ones out on the water this morning at our location and the freedom of being in blue water with a close encounter of the dolphin kind was wonderful. Alex and Brandy joked that this would be an additional charge for the dive day.

We then motored further down the rocky coastline to a place where the Divemaster and Captain located the chain of coral on this shallow reef that they decided we were going diving. Pretty close to shore they gave us the signal to suit up and we all clamored to put on our gear in the little boat, kicking each other with fins and handing off tank configurations to each other while banging gear against each other. When ready to go, you put your butt on the edge of the boat, hang the weight of your tank over the edge and together we all did back rolls into the crystal blue water. With visibility beyond where the eye could see, the coral formations were like rock outcroppings set against the backdrop of the white sand bottom.

Tropical fish of all colors and sizes abounded. With my diving experiences I have seen untouched reef systems and coral damage after hurricanes. I could tell that this reef system on the North shore was rebounding after one of those hurricane type events and it was coming back just fine, with the pretty colors, variety of local fish and coral formations. The local Divemaster leading us took us in a big circle around this reef system. Everything was kicked back and fun. I felt and tasted the saltwater as the dive progressed. I had made a miscalculation by putting sun block on my face this morning. Needless to say my mask leaked. No one is perfect and I did not make this mistake again. A current could be felt in one direction underwater, but not too strong that we did not make headway from one coral formation to another. It just took a little longer to travel against the current. This was shallow at 25 feet, water temperature 81 degrees and dive lasted almost an hour. The cost for a 2 tank reef dive $45. During the dive two of the dolphins came back at lightening speed buzzed the dive group by shooting right through the middle. I mentally noted this was my most spectacular dolphin encounter in the wild to date and was only the first dive of the week. As the bright sun beat down on us the dive boat cut through the flat blue water heading back the way we came. In cramped quarters wet diver’s swapped tanks for our second reef dive of the day off Isla Mujeres.


Part III To be continued………………………………………………………………………

 

[scubashawn123]

Part III .....

Part III

After setting our gear up in the boat for this second dive of the first day, the wind was starting to pick up on the west side of the Island. We had some chop across the water and a little surface wave action starting to kick up. You could see the resort just to the East of us and we were heading for a blue patch of water west of us with the Cancun coastline far off in the distance. Patches of ocean would go from dark blue to light blue as far as the eye could see. I did not write down the name of this reef probably due to the fact that I could not pronounce it. My nickname is swift ocean current reef. During our short 2 minute dive briefing Alex informed us to beware of the intense current at this location. He warned us to keep up with him. He would have a float attached to a guide reel he had pulled out to attach to one of his D rings. The dive boat would follow the float. He said the dive plan was for all of us to go in the water together, go down together, stay together, he would zig and zag the reef to keep us from being blown off the reef by this ocean current. We would drift to one side and kick hard to zag to the other side of the reef formation. The divers lined up on both side rails of the little boat and we all rolled backwards into the water together. The ocean current was intense cutting across the reef at a diagonal swath pushing us down the reef formation. The kicking started and did not end for 45 minutes; it did not take long to be on the far North side of this reef. This is the strongest current I can remember diving.

Alex drops down and hands off his guide reel to Brandy. When I notice Alex has lost his tank. Yes the Divemaster, using a Caribbean style BC with only one strap, lost his tank.
With the strong current and the dive group getting pretty split up, Alex took a couple minutes to reassemble his gear underwater. We were spread out now with Brandy leading about 100 feet away zagging against the current and going over the top of the reef formation. Alex after getting his tank adjusted underwater went back to Brandy and got the guide reel with float and took the lead. Brandy headed backwards in current towards here student struggling in the current bringing up the rear.

The reef max depth 22 feet, water temperature 81 degrees, great visibility, lots of pretty coral formations with tropical fish. The highlight was a big turtle that came lazily by the group while we all kicked hard to keep up with Alex. The turtle must have been cracking up at the spread out group finning hard to stay on this reef against the cross current. Very interesting dive lasted 45 minutes and we were heading back to the resort on day one.

The plan for day two was a dive trip to the Anaya Mexican Battleship wreck. I spent the rest of the day enjoying the sun and sand and fine food with my wife. I bought a cigar to smoke, had a beer and tequila and wondered what tomorrow on the wreck would have in store for the divers.


Stay tuned for Part IV…………………………………………………………

 

[scubashawn123]

Part IV ………..the final chapter of the trip report ..........................


The sun was out, humidity low; it was warm with a nice blowing wind out of the North. The water was choppy today, the North shore was back to having surf conditions on the rock beach line and the sport fishing boats were splashing quite a lot of bow spray as they headed out for their day of fun. The fifty foot fishing boats moving up and down in the swells. We met up at the dive shack (locals would argue it was their form of a dive shop) and the local Divemaster Alex started asking questions about diving in Texas. It was real nice to be the focus of a young diver who had not dove outside this area. He was fascinated by the Texas Swamp divers stories I shared about cold fresh water, dark, deep and mostly low visibility. I described the different places I have dove around the state and our special local diving in the Austin area. He was amazed that we would dive so frequently in the state of Texas.

As we started to leave the pier for the wreck dive, the wind and waves splashed salt water over the bow and I enjoyed the hour trip remembering similar boat trips. I was letting the water and wind splash on me as the Captain would try to quarter the waves as best he could in our little boat. We headed south and took a detour into the canal. The opening of this canal is littered with boats from the last hurricane. A scene right out of a movie. Fifty foot fishing boats resting sideways on the reefs, rusting away, sailboats and other boats sticking part way out of the water. Our trip down the Canal was a trip for gas. What a smell at the marina boat dock. This smell brought on a sense of nausea on me for a few minutes. I powered through the experience and before you know it we were on our way. Heading back out the canal to open blue water with 2 -4 foot swells, wind, white caps and did I mention the sunshine. We turned south again. I could see the Cancun skyline to the West and the Island of Isla Mujeres to my East. This was to take us south of Cancun to a mooring ball off the coast. We were in Open Ocean. You could see post card perfect clouds starting to form in the horizon against the blue sky.

I of course having been trained in diving made a mental inventory of the situation. Small boat. Language barrier with the Captain. No marine radio, no first aid kit, no life jackets, no cell phones, no DAN O2 kit. I found this adventurous off the coast like this.

We had two local Mexican Divemasters today. Alex the lead and Griko who was to bring up the rear, obviously assigned not to lose a diver. Everyone was excited. The dive briefing was short. We were instructed to take hold of a bow line in the water that we were to pull ourselves to the mooring line. When all divers were lined up on the mooring line Alex would signal our decent. We were to pull ourselves, not kick from the surface down to the ship. This side of the ship was protected from the strong current and depending on conditions Alex would lead the group around the ship. Their warning was if you get blown off the line it would be a real mess getting you back. Just don’t get blown off the line. Then they mentioned last month that two divers are still missing in Cozumel. I did not get any names or information to substantiate this claim.

We entered the water one by one today individually pulling ourselves over to the mooring line buoy. Once I entered the water I think I was 2nd from the front as we bobbed up and down in the swells adding to the excitement of the days dive. Alex signaled and we started down. I looked down and could not see the wreck or bottom, it was just blue sea. As I started my decent I followed the directions pulling myself against a current, but not an intense current as described earlier. About 20 feet into the decent the whole ocean opened up into a panoramic view of the ocean bottom. The mooring line down to mid-ships of the starboard side of the wreck, big fish everywhere, and to my delight a big five foot wing span spotted eagle ray soaring in the current to my right, several other eagle rays in the sand on the bottom. The ship sits at 93 feet on a port list in the white sand on the bottom.

The wreck was cut open all over obviously cleaned and sunk for divers in Mexico. I took the path less traveled and entered the wreck checking out all the fish hiding in this oasis on a sandy bottom. I could still see the dive group through the openings and really no serious obstructions. What a blast. When I came out a side hole after exploring stairs and cargo holds to my surprise another picture perfect moment.

Looking up from the top deck and towards the bridge tower area were four eagle rays flying in formation above us and the wreck. What a sight to behold it almost took my breath away. I watched and kept my eye on the Divemaster and group checking out big groupers hanging out. I explored more of the wreck cabin areas and ended up at the mooring line with Griko (other Divemaster). We were both smiling from the experience as we looked at each other and compared gauges; we stayed on the wreck for a while longer while our dive partners were in various positions ascending the mooring line to the small boat. I could not see the surface from the bottom. Just a long mooring line bending in the tranquil current of Mexico. The Anaya had left me with more diving memories. Griko who did not speak but broken English and me with no Spanish had not really talked. That look into his eyes of the enjoyment of the dive in the ocean reminded me how diving does not need language to communicate the experience of joy underwater. I saw that childlike look of wonder, amazement and happiness for a split second on the bottom.

As I headed up the mooring line I looked down at the site and all the fish that call it home. Almost like a light switch when the view of the wreck disappeared in the blue and surface came into view, the up down action of the swells were easily dealt with on my safety stop due to the current not trying to blow me off the line. As if going from tranquil to rough surfacing was like a light switch going off. The noise, wind, surf, swells, current. Going up and going down as I waited my turn on the line to make it to the boat ladder.

At the ladder in the water we were required to remove our equipment, hand it to the Captain, toss our fins into the boat and then crawl on board. Having used no sea sickness meds, I was getting a little nauseated by the time the boat broke the mooring and started to head to a reef system for the second dive of the day south of Cancun. I like being underway in the wind. The second dive was about 45 minutes north, timing our surface interval like clock work. Another beautiful reef, stronger currents and of course lobsters hiding in the cracks of the reef. The highlight was the mooring line with about a dozen barracuda hanging out waiting for us to ascend. They were unafraid of divers and I almost could reach out and touch them at the base of the mooring.

The weather was getting worse on the ride back. A tropical storm was brewing. It put the next days diving in question. Sure enough with rain, lightening, swells, wind and surf no boats were allowed out the following day.

My wife and I enjoyed downtown Isla Mujeres taking in the shopping, fresh seafood, fine dining, great cigars and good spirits. Just another wonderful day in Mexico.

By the next day my sinuses were pounding. I decided on an afternoon single tank dive to Manchones Reef a must see if going to Isla Mujeres or Cancun. This is the reef system everyone talks about. We still had swells and current, but I liked the coral holes we got to swim through throughout this underwater park. By the end of this day my head cold was raging and I became a land lubber until we flew home.

There is more to do than time to do it. Blue Caribbean Sea with lots of wrecks and reefs to see. I did not get to do the Cenotes diving trip so I have no doubt I will be back for more when time and money permits. I still feel like I am on Island time and my head bobs back and forth with the memories of the ocean swells.

The End of this modest trip report.

Regards,

Shawn O’Shea

 

[Zinc]

Thanks Shawn, what a great writeup.

While Isla Mujeres is as far north on the Yucatan you can get, if you ever experience this in Cozumel or Playa del Carmen:

The weather was getting worse on the ride back. A tropical storm was brewing. It put the next days diving in question. Sure enough with rain, lightening, swells, wind and surf no boats were allowed out the following day.

That's when you try and book a cenote tour for the next day. You may set up in the jungle while raining, but other than surface runoff affecting the top, once your in the water's like gin

 

[Mack Diver]

Great Report Shawn.

I think your boss should send you back to do a feature for the travel & leisure dept. You're a natural. I'll volunteer to go along and add the color commentary.

 

[scubashawn123]

Great Report Shawn.

I think your boss should send you back to do a feature for the travel & leisure dept. You're a natural. I'll volunteer to go along and add the color commentary.

Sounds like a plan