It finally happened - my CCR tried to kill me

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Whilst I have had more than my fair share hardware failures with 13 probes replaced under warranty in the first three years, I have found the rMS hardware over the past three years to be solid.

What do you think the cause of the failures are?

They live in a pretty toxic environment; does the metal get eaten by the damp lime? Mine are looking quite 'rough' after a few months. Wonder if it's worth getting a couple of replacement probes "in stock" just in case?
 
What do you think the cause of the failures are?
The bonding in the first edition of the probes was unable to handle the ambient temperatures generated in the scrubber.


Wonder if it's worth getting a couple of replacement probes "in stock" just in case?

If I was using the first generation of probes (I think pre 2016) I would as its not a matter of if but when.
 
The bonding in the first edition of the probes was unable to handle the ambient temperatures generated in the scrubber.

If I was using the first generation of probes (I think pre 2016) I would as its not a matter of if but when.

So the second generation of probes are reliable?
 
So the second generation of probes are reliable?

I dont have access to failure rates of the new probes by all rEvo users, but from my own experience I would say that the temp probe failure rate has improved greatly.
 
I don't understand the first sentence.

My first sentence was, "My Build checklist occurs after the tanks and scrubber cover are on."

I was responding to where you said earlier:

4) You have your own SOP to build the unit. Paul Raymaeker wrote a build list for a reason.

This statement implies that Paul has a list to follow that dictates that the scrubber cover should be installed before the cylinders are attached.

I have the latest engraved checklist cards from rEvo. There is a Build checklist and a Pre-jump checklist. The Build checklist does not specify the order that the scrubber cover and cylinders are installed. The Build checklist is one that you go through after the scrubber cover and cylinders are installed.

That is what my sentence meant.

I don't know what list you are referring to that Paul Raymaeker has made that specifies that the scrubber cover should be installed before the cylinders are attached. My training only included the 2 checklists that I do follow (at least, as best I can recall). Do you possibly have a link to the list you are talking about?

I meant that the wet matable cable is much more reliable than a Fisher connection, and that the on chip digitization of the signal would exclude that the cable was responsible, so a priori you should have concluded that something inside the canister (chip, or most likely cells) was acting up. What I don't understand then, is how you could hope that some would reliably and durably provide trustworthy information.

When I started getting wonky sensor readings, I recognized them as a sign of (most likely) moisture in the sensors. I have had that before. In the past, it has generally only been 1 sensor, though. I have said it before and I'll repeat it here. I never suspected an actual flood (versus high humidity) that was messing with the sensors. That was my own inexperience and a good lesson learned. In my mind, it passed a negative test done that morning, before getting on the boat. And, I was not hearing ANY gurgling in the loop - which I have had many times in the past when I get a relatively small amount of moisture in the loop. Now I know. Even a flood (versus normal humidity/condensation) in the inhale lung will not result in gurgling.

If 5 sensors are reading 1.3ppO2 and then suddenly 3 of them start reading 0.5 or 2.5, and 2 of them continue to read 1.3, I take that as a strong indicator that the 2 showing 1.3 are correct. ppO2 doesn't change from 1.3 to 0.5 or 2.5 in a sudden, abrupt fashion. Being at 20' and flushing with O2, then seeing the sensors go up to 1.5-ish, then gradually come down again is further confirmation that those 2 sensors were still reading correctly. Particularly when those 2 sensors are connected via an analog connection, straight to the NERD, with no splitters or other devices connected (to those 2 sensors).

I don't understand how you can seem to know rEvos so well and not understand that.
 
So the second generation of probes are reliable?

I don't know what generation number the current probes are. But, the general consensus of anecdotal surveying of rEvo owners that I've seen is that the current rMS probes are much more robust than the original ones.

My previous rEvo (a Mini) had old probes in it. They each individually failed in the first few months I had the unit. I replaced them with new ones and had no further issues with them in the year I continued to dive it before I got my Micro and sold the Mini. However, I don't consider that to be saying much. I think even the very original ones would last through my usage in that 1 year without problems.

The newer ones do look slightly different.

If yours are looking crusty, use some diluted white vinegar to clean them up. You should be able to get them back to looking like new.
 
This statement implies that Paul has a list to follow that dictates that the scrubber cover should be installed before the cylinders are attached.

I have the latest engraved checklist cards from rEvo. There is a Build checklist and a Pre-jump checklist. The Build checklist does not specify the order that the scrubber cover and cylinders are installed. The Build checklist is one that you go through after the scrubber cover and cylinders are installed.

The attached checklist document from the rEvo website (Downloads) implies that the cylinders should be attached before the cover. The attached rEvo user manual also implies the same thing (page 25).

I personally and purposefully don't do it in that order. I always get the unit completely sealed before attaching tanks. But, that is just what I have found works for me.

It is a complete SWAG, but I'm guessing that the logic behind Paul's build order is that you have less of a chance of dislodging the cover if you attach the tanks before you put the cover on.

- brett
 

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The attached checklist document from the rEvo website (Downloads) implies that the cylinders should be attached before the cover. The attached rEvo user manual also implies the same thing (page 25).

I personally and purposefully don't do it in that order. I always get the unit completely sealed before attaching tanks. But, that is just what I have found works for me.

It is a complete SWAG, but I'm guessing that the logic behind Paul's build order is that you have less of a chance of dislodging the cover if you attach the tanks before you put the cover on.

- brett

Thank you for those. I use the Closed and Pre-jump checklists. I had not seen the Build checklist before. I note that the checklists I have are ver 0.5, and that PDF indicates those are ver 0.4. But, I don't think that really changes anything about the Build checklist.

As you, I purposefully put the tanks on first and will continue to do so. In fact, if I had not ignored the sign, putting the cover on last would have told me that I had a problem with my build. It didn't go on right because the O2 cylinder was interfering. Next time, I will realize that that means the O2 cylinder is not mounted correctly and fix it. If I had put the scrubber cover on first, the O2 cylinder would still have pressed against it (assuming I put it on wrong, as I did), but I don't know that I would even notice that, in that situation, as the cylinders are always fiddly to get on. The scrubber cover is normally not fiddly at all, so that is something I would (and DID) notice. I just didn't react to that observation correctly.
 
Thank you for those. I use the Closed and Pre-jump checklists. I had not seen the Build checklist before. I note that the checklists I have are ver 0.5, and that PDF indicates those are ver 0.4. But, I don't think that really changes anything about the Build checklist.

As you, I purposefully put the tanks on first and will continue to do so. In fact, if I had not ignored the sign, putting the cover on last would have told me that I had a problem with my build. It didn't go on right because the O2 cylinder was interfering. Next time, I will realize that that means the O2 cylinder is not mounted correctly and fix it. If I had put the scrubber cover on first, the O2 cylinder would still have pressed against it (assuming I put it on wrong, as I did), but I don't know that I would even notice that, in that situation, as the cylinders are always fiddly to get on. The scrubber cover is normally not fiddly at all, so that is something I would (and DID) notice. I just didn't react to that observation correctly.

Just to be really clear, I personally put the tanks on AFTER I put the scrubber cover on. I do the pos/neg tests after I attach the tanks but before I open or pressurize either the Dil or the O2.

- brett
 
Just to be really clear, I personally put the tanks on AFTER I put the scrubber cover on. I do the pos/neg tests after I attach the tanks but before I open or pressurize either the Dil or the O2.

- brett

Understood. I think I might start doing those tests at the start, as well. Save myself all the gas used in the checklist only to find I've got a leak somewhere and have to do it all over again after I've resolved the leak.

I think I would still do the negative test again, at the time the list says (the end of the Closed check).
 

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