Is there any interest in a Goodman style handle for the DRIS 1000 and 500 lights?

[HenrikBP]

Drawing is on the way to you.

 

[Herb-alaska]

I would be interested in 3 or so. I have a soft sock that works but it fits loosely and the light will work its way out.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Would the handle hold the light high enough to allow it to sit without interfering with the largest dry glove ring? I am not certain of the height required but would guess at about 1.5" - 2" (perhaps someone with a dry glove ring close by can estimate better). The answer to that will likely impact my initial interest and may impact others. The light is so long, the dry glove ring is what prevents the sock from working.

View attachment 131922

 

[00wabbit]

Would the handle hold the light high enough to allow it to sit without interfering with the largest dry glove ring? I am not certain of the height required but would guess at about 1.5" - 2" (perhaps someone with a dry glove ring close by can estimate better). The answer to that will likely impact my initial interest and may impact others. The light is so long, the dry glove ring is what prevents the sock from working.

Interesting. I designed it to clamp around the knurled rings on the light handle because that will help keep it from rotating as well. You could position the light further forward probably to avoid the dry suit ring. Other wise I could maybe make a spacer to stand it up taller. I have it so the bolts to hold the light in go up through the inside of the bracket to the top to pull everything together. It wouldn't be difficult to have a spacer and a set of longer bolts to sit the light up higher. I'll go to the dive shop next week sometime and look at the drysuit rings.

I'll work on the design more this weekend and post a revised version. I am using emachine shop for the cutting. Their prices are really good if you do quantity and I can get them hard anodized mil-spec to reduce corrosion.
Even though the prices are good this is looking light is may be in the $40-50 range. I am still doing little things here and there to bring the cost down. I haven't looked at the cost for stainless steel bolts, but it shouldn't be too bad.

 

[HenrikBP]

Would the handle hold the light high enough to allow it to sit without interfering with the largest dry glove ring?

I've used Goodman handles with Viking Glove rings. My personal can light is an MB-Sub VB-50, which is shorter than the standard HID light, but a bit thicker towards the rear. I've also used Halcyon HID lights (really long) with the rings.

What happens for me with either can light is, that when I'm in trim and "delta" position with hands/arms up and in front of me, the "tail" of the light (on my left hand) would pivot "in" towards the thumb side of my forearm, and thereby clearing the Viking rings. That would also point the light forward in the direction of travel, while still leaving me plenty of "maneuver" room to point the light where I want it.

I would probably mount the Goodman handle towards the front of the light, and just let the tail go where it wants.

I used a "Red Neck" Goodman handle with a Halcyon Scout light, again with the Viking glove rings. Just like with the can lights, the "tail end" just rotates a bit, and in trim that is actually an advantage.

 

[00wabbit]

So, I made all the parts as cheap as I could. I spec'd it out with black powdercoat and all stainless steel hardware. The cost comes to $59 each for 25pcs

 

[ScubaSteve]

I do not dive a can light so I am not sure of the head size but the DRIS light is about 8" if I recall. I think that is much longer than a can light head, no?

I've used Goodman handles with Viking Glove rings. My personal can light is an MB-Sub VB-50, which is shorter than the standard HID light, but a bit thicker towards the rear. I've also used Halcyon HID lights (really long) with the rings.

What happens for me with either can light is, that when I'm in trim and "delta" position with hands/arms up and in front of me, the "tail" of the light (on my left hand) would pivot "in" towards the thumb side of my forearm, and thereby clearing the Viking rings. That would also point the light forward in the direction of travel, while still leaving me plenty of "maneuver" room to point the light where I want it.

I would probably mount the Goodman handle towards the front of the light, and just let the tail go where it wants.

I used a "Red Neck" Goodman handle with a Halcyon Scout light, again with the Viking glove rings. Just like with the can lights, the "tail end" just rotates a bit, and in trim that is actually an advantage.

 

[00wabbit]

I do not dive a can light so I am not sure of the head size but the DRIS light is about 8" if I recall. I think that is much longer than a can light head, no?

It is longer than a can, but you could position it further forward so it doesn't hit your wrist

 

[HenrikBP]

I do not dive a can light so I am not sure of the head size but the DRIS light is about 8" if I recall. I think that is much longer than a can light head, no?

I don't have an HID light to measure, but the VB-50 head is about 5" overall (3" from back of handle to the tail end). The HID lights are *much* longer, especially the Halcyon.

Here's a picture of my "Shade Tree" can light - pretty much what you're looking to do:



As you can see, the tail of the Scout light (8" overall) hits the glove ring, but the handle is big enough to lift the light a bit, and as mentioned before, the light kinda wants to go to the inside of the wrist in order to point forward. You also rarely move about with perfectly straight wrists - they'll flex down a bit. All of which buys you more space for the tail end of the light.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Seeing it helps a great deal. Thanks for the picture Henrik. You never fail to come through. I can say that I believe my SI Tech Glove-Lok rings are bigger than my Viking rings were but it probably will work just fine.