Is there any interest in a Goodman style handle for the DRIS 1000 and 500 lights?

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I don't think it's a bad thing. I reached out to them. I want to get it made but i don't want to sit in my apartment and assemble hundreds of these. I already do enough assembly on my other 3 businesses :).

You do not have to assemble. Ship parts with a diagram each person can put the screws in. That will be a time and cost cutter..... Just a thought.....:D
 
You do not have to assemble. Ship parts with a diagram each person can put the screws in. That will be a time and cost cutter..... Just a thought.....:D

+1 Six screws to put it together! A trained monkey can do that, so I can certainly assemble it myself. :D
 
If I choose goodman handle I would awoid metall and too many nuts and screws. Handle should be light as possible and stable as possible .

In case of presented handle it si too complicated and it is not stable ; because it support the upper hand is too short and lamp is relative long , that mean long handle on both sides and narrow point grip.

Another point is height between of palm support and body of light which creates an additional handle.

It was constructive criticism ;-)

If I made handle for that light I would take a sheet of plastic which would be simple heat treathed in thickness like 3-5 mm .

shape in that way :

goodmann.jpg


It must be made modell of complete light in some hard wood. Then I would cut plastic sheet in right shape .

For plastic I would take probably KYDEX ( DSS made BP from that plastic - look on ebay for sheets ) and it is quite resistant on wearing .

Kydex heat treatment :http://www.kydex.com/uploads/files/kydex_tb_140-b_thermoforming_061412.pdf

Fix that plastic on wood model and heat all together with heat gun.

That goodman handle should be fit on light with disassebled tailcap from back.
 
That may be a "pretty" handle but the cost to manufacture went throught the roof just looking at it. The finished tolerances went to the birds as well. Think "low production volume".
 
This can be made in average workshop in time of half hour (probably not so nice and clean lines but useful in any way) ...cost few (cca 20€ for A3 sheet 3mm -suitable for 2 handles) , depends on material ( we also made similar in that way with acryl glass)

I have thought in DIY way ...for '' low production volume '' that means CNC milling from probably cheaper material but you can definitly get contour for little more expensive product ( product it is expensif not for machine time but because of plastic waste) ...be flexible ;-))) Important it is also milling order and order of pieces in multiple simultaneous milling.

But even milling should be cheaper than multipart assembly (also in that way every part should be treated in own way )

Than biger production means direct moulding of plastics in pics or milling pre- moulded plastic profile

I work in automotive plastic industy ;-)
 
........(probably not so nice and clean lines but useful in any way)........

So you are here claiming the OP has a bad design that people should not buy into when you are incapable of showing us what "your design" would be? Your design would be bulky and blocky with lots of square edgesaccording to the above right? Perhaps you underestimate the importance of a clean finished product to people. This is a big board and I am sure everybody would participate in your "Like my design" thread if you went and started it.


I work in automotive plastic industy ;-)

Telling me you wore a white lab coat at work would have bought you more credibility than this statement. "Knowing" plastics does nothing for your understanding of CNC Laser/Plasma/Waterjet/Turret/Brake equipment that could be/would be used to make the OP's design. FYI, being in the automotive industry does nothing for your understanding of low production volume either.
 
I don't have an "average workshop". Nor do i want to go spend $$$ on tools to make 1 thing.
 
Heh, I'd like to DIY that :D maybe ill try a ally version and a delrin version with some mods to the bolting to my preferences. The torch grip NOT only need a wrench to tighten, you'd need an allen key too. (from what I see is button head capscrews.) So, that is the part im gonna do my customisation by thickening the base and counter sinking screws which can still be slid around (kinda like a T-slot,... maybe ill get a drawing up to explain that). The top part of the fastening, some suggested wing-nut, though it may not be the best option for a tool-less operation. Im gonna try with 2 knurled nuts but will have to check with finger tightening is enough to hold a torch twist on/off without slipping. :wink: Hehe, these extra fabrication/machining process wont make it more economical though. But generally the design looks cool! especially the 3d rendering making it soooo shiny...:)
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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