Is there a >3,000 psi compressed air piping system?

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I use swegelok. I stopped swearing so much. Not for anything over -8, that all goes in the very expensive machine. I have a 377 as well, but with the heavy wall, it just wants to push the tubing out of the die.

Sigh, you and @tbone1004 . My cheap, cheap heart does not want to spend that type of money, but there’s a reason I haven’t replaced the flaring tool yet…

Fine, I’ll quit being cheap. I think that sailed when I bought the compressor in the first place. Boats are not the only holes that you throw money into.
 
Sigh, you and @tbone1004 . My cheap, cheap heart does not want to spend that type of money, but there’s a reason I haven’t replaced the flaring tool yet…

Fine, I’ll quit being cheap. I think that sailed when I bought the compressor in the first place. Boats are not the only holes that you throw money into.
You haven't made enough friends down at the refinery. Or over at the Navy. I was told to dumpster a pallet of -08 swagelok, as we had a nifty new flaring tool. I was happily able to do exactly that, right into the dumpster, yessiree. The refinery in Texas throws away all of the stale dated swagelok. Stale dated swagelok? Really? I only deal in -08 and -04 stainless tubing, so I gave away all of the -06 and -10, but I probably have 10,000 or more tees, adapters, unions, etc. Most are silver plated. When I'm spending my own treasure on Swagelok, it sure ain't the silver plated kind.

Anyone who remembers the Spree remembers that the exposed plumbing in the outdoor head was all -08 stainless, in Swagelok, and the bends were perfect.
 
I have never been successful flaring .035 wall with a hand flaring tool. I use a $6500 machine that flares #4 to #32 .035 wall. Does someone make a hand flares that will do that?
I have a Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool and got a set of the 37° dies for it. Never tried the .035 stainless (just learning about this stuff) but have done a bunch of different lines. It is a hand pump hydraulic tool. Stuff that was a massive pain to flare by hand is a cakewalk with the hydraulic flaring tool. It can also do other things like push-lock fittings, bubble flare, and all the stuff not used in high pressure compressed air systems.
 
I have a Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool and got a set of the 37° dies for it. Never tried the .035 stainless (just learning about this stuff) but have done a bunch of different lines. It is a hand pump hydraulic tool. Stuff that was a massive pain to flare by hand is a cakewalk with the hydraulic flaring tool. It can also do other things like push-lock fittings, bubble flare, and all the stuff not used in high pressure compressed air systems.
I have that same tool. I use it daily. Where did you source the 37 degree dies? You have a link?
\
Nevermind, I found it.
I never looked for it before. Ordered.
 
I have a Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool and got a set of the 37° dies for it.

Yeah, it’s on my list. But the whole reason I’m using JIC is because I’m cheap. Buying a $300 tool doesn’t make JIC very cheap, now does it?

But seeing as it is the cost of 20 or so swage lock, it’s probably a pretty good investment.

Maybe I’ll just go steal @Tracy ‘s. If only Livonia were a little closer, or I wasn’t so lazy. :)
 
You’ll never find it cheaper than this. Buck a foot. I’d buy it myself if I didn’t already have 2 coils.

316L Stainless Steel Tubing Coil - 1/4" OD x .035" wall x 100' length | eBay

If you look carefully at the offer from the seller two considerations you need to make that he clearly states:

1. The tube offered is seamed ie it is a welded tube (and not seamless)

2. The specification given is A-269 (and not including A-213)

A-269 is only the Practices for Detecting Susceptibility to Intergranular Attack in Austenitic Stainless Steels

A-213 is the Standard Specification for Seamless Ferritic and Austenitic Alloy-Steel Boiler, Superheater, and Heat-Exchanger Tubes.

Now IMHO seamless A213 tube is better for high pressure gas applications and welded tube is more for sanitary applications and hydraulic use. Nothwithstanding that trying to flare the ends on welded tube is more difficult due to the face hardening seam running down the length of the welded tube being much harder at the seam than the softer seamless tube. With the risk of cracking the tube in thin wall applications which is a bit of a pain having bent the tube to place prior to flaring.

Coils are also a pain as they look crap when fitted along a bulhead or wall. while 3 or 6 metre 10 or 20 foot lenghs of straight tube look professional when bent and clamped properly.

Its just a consideration.
 
If you look carefully at the offer from the seller two considerations you need to make that he clearly states:

1. The tube offered is seamed ie it is a welded tube (and not seamless)

2. The specification given is A-269 (and not including A-213)

A-269 is only the Practices for Detecting Susceptibility to Intergranular Attack in Austenitic Stainless Steels
Now IMHO seamless tube is better for high pressure gas applications and welded tube is more for sanitary applications and hydraulic use. Nothwithstanding that trying to flare the ends on welded tube is more difficult due to the face hardening seam running down the length of the welded tube being much harder at the seam than the softer seamless tube. With the risk of cracking the tube in thin wall applications which is a bit of a pain having bent the tube to place prior to flaring.

Coils are also a pain as they look crap when fitted along a bulhead or wall. while 3 or 6 metre 10 or 20 foot lenghs of straight tube look professional when bent and clamped properly.

Its just a consideration.
Agree with all, but he is on an island in the middle of the pacific and while shipping 20 foot sticks is not impossible, it is very difficult. Where you and I might go down to the tubing shop and buy all of the sticks we want, he has to have it shipped US mail to an APO which is the equivalent to Royal Mail. That's why I suggest Swagelok and coil tubing. It's shippable.

IIRC from classes 35 years ago, austenitic stainless is subject to chloride stress corrosion under very limited conditions, including high heat and pressure (and the presence of chlorides, of course). He will have the chlorides and the pressure, but the only heat he will have to contend with is adiabatic, which isn't too bad if he watches his charging rates.
 
Just go Swagelock. Remember, he is on an army base where hand made or one-offs may not be accepted. They probably have 1/4 stainless tubing in stock, and if not ear marked for another project can be purchased. I'm surprised the army does not make them fill in a containment box, in which case filling tanks on the rack is a moot point. I was a member of that club in the mid 90's and remember the tank house well.
 
Agree with all, but he is on an island in the middle of the pacific and while shipping 20 foot sticks is not impossible, it is very difficult. Where you and I might go down to the tubing shop and buy all of the sticks we want, he has to have it shipped US mail to an APO which is the equivalent to Royal Mail. That's why I suggest Swagelok and coil tubing. It's shippable.

IIRC from classes 35 years ago, austenitic stainless is subject to chloride stress corrosion under very limited conditions, including high heat and pressure (and the presence of chlorides, of course). He will have the chlorides and the pressure, but the only heat he will have to contend with is adiabatic, which isn't too bad if he watches his charging rates.

OK I see the shipping problem in that case why not use SAE 100 R7 or SAE 100R8 flexible High pressure 5000 psi hose, you can get up to a 70 meter length coil in a small cardboard carton ive even taken commercia flights with it in hand carry . Say a 3/16" or even 1/4" bore and use a hand swaging tool for the end fittings, You can even get then in No4 JIC (7/18x18 UNF) with the 37 degree cone the OP seems to require and save having to make all the prolamatic flares on hard tube.

Neat and quick to install with a 4:1 safety factor and a 20,000 psi rated burst pressure. If you dont have a hand swaging tool its also possible to use a "Lenz" end fitting a left handed thread on a collet you connect using two "crecent" wrenches (adjustable spanners for any of us lot reading ) and you can get them with the JIC or NPT end connections fitted.
Even easier to install on a vessel and any 3 or 4 foot lengths of hose left over you can make up charging whips for a manifod to fill the cylinder An A clamp or DIN connection at the end with a small line on / off valve and a gauge maybe a non return valve on each if your filling mix. .



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https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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