Investing in gear and trim

[Colliam7]

What do you think of this gear set and how should I improve it?

Overall, I think your gear selections are quite good, and I would have trouble arguing against any of your choices, with perhaps one exception (regulator). Like several others I would suggest an Apeks DST or DS4 first stage, with two XTX50 second stages, as a better regulator selection. You really are not planning to dive in conditions severe enough to require the touted benefits of the MTX-R, so you would be paying a premium price for something you really don't need. Go with a solid DST or DS4, with twin XTX50 second stages, and apply the difference to a metal backplate NOW, rather than renting BCDs un til you can buy a plate.

As for your question about a dive knife, since I use only EMT shears, and a 1 inch folding Buck Knife as a back-up, I am possibly not the best person to answer a question about a dive knife. If I use a dive knife / tool, a short, blunt-tip Wenoka meets my needs just fine.

Of the two lights you mention, I think the 720R is a better approach on the basis of size - it is at least 3" shorter than the 720. But, I think you may pay a bit of a premium for the rechargeable dive light. I have not found a need for a rechargeable light expect in my canister light. I have a Big Blue CF450 which I really like, because it uses batteries AND it has a 'real' on-off switch (magnetic) rather than a 'twist on - twist off' switch, and it is relatively short - fits in a Goodman glove on my hand. Now, I acknowledge that my choices reflect my personal preference, and the ScubaPro light is nice, just not my cuppa.

As such, was planning to buy the Dive rite xt fins, instead of scubapro jetfins - less weight on feet and maybe move 4 lbs to tank pocket, when using a wetsuit, drysuit. Does this make sense or should I take another approach? (without buying a weight integrated BCD).

It makes sense, to move as much weight as possible to a position adjacent to your physiologic center of lift - your thorax. To some extent, the answer to your question does depend on your inherent physiologic buoyancy / trim characteristics, to which we do not have access - only you know if you are 'heavy legged', 'light legged', etc.

 

[David Novo]

Overall, akes sense, to move as much weight as possible to a position adjacent to your physiologic center of lift - your thorax. To some extent, the answer to your question does depend on your inherent physiologic buoyancy / trim characteristics, to which we do not have access - only you know if you are 'heavy legged', 'light legged', etc.

I am currently heavy legged, struggling with torso up, legs down, probably due to all the weight on waist.

Thank you all for the tips: taking the Apeks XTX 50 for sure, as well as two back weight pockets instead of one. Big Blue diving lights seem to be more expensive to get than scubapro in here.

 

[outofofficebrb]

I am currently heavy legged, struggling with torso up, legs down, probably due to all the weight on waist.

Thank you all for the tips: taking the Apeks XTX 50 for sure, as well as two back weight pockets instead of one. Big Blue diving lights seem to be more expensive to get than scubapro in here.

Try moving some weights to your trim pockets. When I’m diving a steel 100 I find this happens too and have to redistribute to trim pockets but when I am diving an AL I don’t need any in trim. Also, boots might help buoyancy on your legs due to neoprene...

 

[Colliam7]

I am currently heavy legged, struggling with torso up, legs down, probably due to all the weight on waist.

I agree, probably a reflection of where your weights are (waist), compared to where your center of lift is (chest / thorax).

I would definitely encourage you to look seriously at a metal (SS) backplate. That alone allows you to move weight a) off your waist and b) up to an area adjacent to your center of lift. You can also move weights to trim pockets on a BCD. Unfortunately. in many cases, the trim pockets are relatively low on the back of the BCD, so the actual benefit gained is limited. Think of it in terms of arm and moment. In this case, the arm is the distance from your waist to the center of the trim pocket (and the moment is that arm multiplied by the weight). Ideally, you want to increase the arm - move the weight higher, in order to increase the moment, and NOT increase the moment simply by adding weight. An additional option is to put 1-2 small weight pockets on the cylinder cam band, in order to increase that arm distance. Some divers go so far as to thread a couple of 2lb weights onto the shoulder straps of their BCD (if the strap allows that) close to their shoulder.

Now, keep in mind that these approaches don't generally produce 'ditch-able' weight. But, with a properly balanced rig, even with no ditch-able weight, you should be able to swim to the surface with a failed BCD. Ideally, what you are doing is repositioning a portion of your waist weight. If, simply for the sake of calculation, you are wearing 10 lb on your waist, then reposition 6lb to a position higher on your torso and you may well see quite a positive change in your trim. Even if you reposition 8/10 lbs, if you are properly weighted, ditching just 2 lb on your waist will produce positive buoyancy.

 

[outofofficebrb]

What @Colliam7 said about weights - I started with 1/3 in trim and 2/3 in integrated and went from there. That’s how i figured out my needs for different tanks. Also double check that your tank - is it too low? You can switch it up based on what looks/feels right. Good luck!

 

[David Novo]

I would definitely encourage you to look seriously at a metal (SS) backplate. That alone allows you to move weight a) off your waist and b) up to an area adjacent to your center of lift. You can also move weights to trim pockets on a BCD.

Bulkier pieces are quite off the table for the time being, but I will for sure consider the plate in the medium term. For now, I will try to move 2kg from waist to tank trim pockets and keep 6kg in waist

Also, boots might help buoyancy on your legs due to neoprene...

Meaning boots with a bit of neoprene (5-6.5 mm) could help...

 

[MargaritaMike]

It's amazing how much you can learn from this site. I have been doing it wrong for over 20 years!

Cheers - MM

 

[outofofficebrb]

Bulkier pieces are quite off the table for the time being, but I will for sure consider the plate in the medium term. For now, I will try to move 2kg from waist to tank trim pockets and keep 6kg in waist



Meaning boots with a bit of neoprene (5-6.5 mm) could help...

Yes! Exactly. I have thicker boots. I have worn them in 45F to 85F. I’ve never felt like I’ve had to take them off because my feet got too hot but YMMV.

 

[Neal Yang]

Reg- if you want apeks, buy the XTX50-DST combo and get a matching XTX50 for the octopus. Since considering bp/w in the future, set it up for primary donate, plenty of threads on that on here to look up. Deep6 regs also worth looking at
Knife-simple z-knives are fine
fins, I'd get the Deep6 fins. They travel better than the XT's because they're shorter and have a more comfortable foot pocket

Hi. A bit of an old thread to revive, but I wanna ask, is there a reason to get the matching XTX50 octopus instead of going for the cheaper XTX40 for the octopus?

 

[tbone1004]

Hi. A bit of an old thread to revive, but I wanna ask, is there a reason to get the matching XTX50 octopus instead of going for the cheaper XTX40 for the octopus?

If you are going with an XTX50 and XTX40, the 40 should be the primary. This allows you to de-tune the secondary to minimize freeflow risk, but when put in use, can be tuned for optimal breathing by turning the knob. The cost between the 40 and 50 is less than $20 IIRC and if you end up with a 40, you can easily add the adjustment knob later, but for $20 you may as well get it from the beginning.