Intro level strobes: YS01 vs Bonica G8-B

[Puffer Fish]

Once? I have a room full of those once things. I have to admit it does take some time to get used to the cost of strobes

This is what's going to happen.... The OP will purchase the less expensive strobe and will enjoy using it. For a while....
Soon the OP with realize that TTL is nice to have, as is a modeling light and a sealed battery compartment. Within a year the OP will decide the 430.00 isn't really that bad for a good strobe and will buy one.
It's happened to all of us at least once......

 

[AceszHigh]

Ok so now I am just gonna give in and buy a YS-01. I am looking at this set Sea & Sea YS-01 Strobe w/ Grip-Stay S, Fiber Optic SS-70025 B&H ....

Question: that 'grip stay' doesnt look like it moves. Wouldnt I want an arm, so I could center the strobe above the camera (since I'd only be using one strobe)?? With one strobe off to the side like that wouldnt the lighting be off?
There are so many 'arm components' on that website, but how do I know what will fit my housing...any recommendations for an arm, or a way to piece together an arm?

 

[cardog]

Ok so now I am just gonna give in and buy a YS-01. I am looking at this set Sea & Sea YS-01 Strobe w/ Grip-Stay S, Fiber Optic SS-70025 B&H ....

Question: that 'grip stay' doesnt look like it moves. Wouldnt I want an arm, so I could center the strobe above the camera (since I'd only be using one strobe)?? With one strobe off to the side like that wouldnt the lighting be off?
There are so many 'arm components' on that website, but how do I know what will fit my housing...any recommendations for an arm, or a way to piece together an arm?

Don't buy the grip stay. Just buy a tray and arm set from S&S or ULCs, Optical Ocean, etc.....

 

[muzikbiz22]

Ok so now I am just gonna give in and buy a YS-01. I am looking at this set Sea & Sea YS-01 Strobe w/ Grip-Stay S, Fiber Optic SS-70025 B&H ....

Question: that 'grip stay' doesnt look like it moves. Wouldnt I want an arm, so I could center the strobe above the camera (since I'd only be using one strobe)?? With one strobe off to the side like that wouldnt the lighting be off?
There are so many 'arm components' on that website, but how do I know what will fit my housing...any recommendations for an arm, or a way to piece together an arm?

Great choice on the YS-01 ! I agree with cardog (above), and go with something like the ULCS. Just my 2 cents. If I may suggest something, if you are in Boynton, zip down to Reef Photo. They will get you configured appropriately. Great guys, great service and support ! Again, just my 2 cents.

 

[AceszHigh]

Im still confused about TTL. Would a regular point & shoot camera (I have sony dsc-w290) be able to utilize this technology?

 

[cardog]

Im still confused about TTL. Would a regular point & shoot camera (I have sony dsc-w290) be able to utilize this technology?

Some do and some don't.

 

[muzikbiz22]

Im still confused about TTL. Would a regular point & shoot camera (I have sony dsc-w290) be able to utilize this technology?

All the more reason to call or visit Reef Photo near you, or any of the other reputable UWP retailers.

 

[LawrenceAlexWu]

Im still confused about TTL. Would a regular point & shoot camera (I have sony dsc-w290) be able to utilize this technology?

Hi AcezHigh...TTL is actually quite simple.

The camera handles picture exposure automatically (unless you put it into FULL MANUAL MODE - then the user controls exposure fully)...When a camera has a strobe or flash, then in order for it to still handle exposure automatically - with this addition of synthetic light - it depends on various types TTL.

If you are using strobes for macro shots, TTL can be decently reliable. As the shot gets wider & further away from macro distances, then TTL underwater becomes more & more unreliable the further the subjects are from the camera lens. Most wide angle shooters with strobes rarely bother with TTL as it is usually UNRELIABLE.

The unreliability is because the camera cannot predict issues like:
- good to bad visibility
- light absorption by the water...which is much higher than air...& is also dependent on visibility...
Can you start to see the difficulty a camera & TTL have to predict correct exposure in wide angle photography?

Hope this helps!
Alex

 

[LawrenceAlexWu]

I must be the exception then in 4 years of underwater photography I've flooded 1 camera and replaced it and decided on 2 strobes and then decided of more powerful strobes.
I've proven the proverb of it's not a matter of if you'll flood a camera, but when. Because of this although I'm a classically trained SLR user of 30 years on the surface. I prefer to use Point and shoot cameras while submerged.
Having an expensive outfit is not a requirement to taking good photographs. Knowing how to set what you have to get the most from that equipment will nearly always guarantee them. Going from good to great is training and talent. Getting to that point is a matter of experience and trial and error. The best equipment available will not help you get there it can only help you be more versatile in the conditions you can expect resonable quality shots.

Hi RRabbit...I would agree with you totally. Recently i tested 2 of these strobes & would say that for the price, they certainly do perform well...but don't take my word for it, check out the photos that came from it yourself:

Bonica Strobe Photos by Lawrence Alex Wu - 2011 - - &copy 2004-2011 AGuaPictures Productions -

Cheers, Alex Wu

 

[Furnari]

To the OP- I've also got a w290 and Sony housing and I'm trying to sort out strobe options. What are your thoughts on what you ended up with?