Installing a valve on drysuit?

[WASP7000]

I want to move my drysuit exhaust valve and un-move it if it doesn't work out. I've seen the port and plug for sale, but I cant find a site that sells them. Any suggestions?

Also, what's the proceedure for installing one on a bilam suit? Do I need the valve port that is glued in before you screw the valve down?

 

[WASP7000]

Took me a few days to find this, but this is the only place I have been able to find that sells these stateside. For anyone who cares


Drysuit Valve port or valve gasket:

Internal Valve Port NGR - pcs, Buy SiTech at DIVESEEKERS.com 888-SCUBA-47

Drysuit Valve port plug:
Blank Plug, Buy SiTech at DIVESEEKERS.com 888-SCUBA-47

 

[Bubbletrubble]

I can't help but think that the question behind the question is: "I'm a new drysuit diver and I'm having problems venting gas from my suit through the exhaust valve. Does anyone have any tips on doing this?" This is a very common issue among new drysuit divers. The vast majority can deal with it without changing the location of the exhaust valve.

Please describe the make/model of your drysuit.

One very common bilam drysuit is the Bare Nex-Gen. The default location of the exhaust valve is on the left upper arm. This location is perfectly fine. If you're considering moving the exhaust valve to your left wrist, I wouldn't bother making the change. Work on your technique instead.

Exhaust valves can wear out over time. If you bought your drysuit used, then you might want to consider replacing it...if the exhaust valve is indeed malfunctioning. Ask an experienced drysuit diver to help you determine this.

The fit and type of drysuit undergarment can play a role in how quickly the exhaust valve dumps. Most of the drysuit undergarments on the market have nice vent holes in the left upper arm to facilitate venting. If you are wearing baggy fleece or a sweatshirt underneath your drysuit, then that can contribute to venting difficulties.

Newer drysuit divers would probably be best served by keeping just enough air inside the drysuit to offset squeeze and using the BCD for the remainder of buoyancy control. There's also the issue of being properly weighted. Many newer drysuit divers are over-weighted and this contributes to buoyancy problems.

I'd work on addressing all of the above issues before deciding to punch another hole in my drysuit.

So am I correct about any of this?

 

[WASP7000]

Yeah I've had the valve checked out, it's functioning correctly. Here's a link to two other threads I have on the issue of the valve location. It's not just about inexperience but with the location of the valve. I've been advised by several people that have moved theirs that it is probably the route to go and makes things a lot easier.

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/exposure-suits/330108-whites-suit-wont-dump-air.html

http://www.nwdiveclub.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11772

and no, not looking for a wrist valve, I just want to relocate this valve to the proper spot on top of my arm instead of the front of my arm.

 

[Bubbletrubble]

Yeah I've had the valve checked out, it's functioning correctly. Here's a link to two other threads I have on the issue of the valve location. It's not just about inexperience but with the location of the valve. I've been advised by several people that have moved theirs that it is probably the route to go and makes things a lot easier.

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/exposure-suits/330108-whites-suit-wont-dump-air.html

Northwest Dive Club • View topic - how much $ to install a drysuit exhaust valve?

and no, not looking for a wrist valve, I just want to relocate this valve to the proper spot on top of my arm instead of the front of my arm.

Thanks for clarifying that. Hmmm. That does seem to be a peculiar orientation to position a drysuit exhaust valve. That probably would have dissuaded me from buying the used suit in the first place.

Good luck with moving that exhaust valve. Would you consider selling the drysuit to someone else and making it his problem? That might be the easiest way to proceed.

 

[WASP7000]

Well considering I got the suit, drygloves, and undergarment for a whopping $300 and it fits me (that was the hardest part in finding a suit), I think it's still a pretty good deal over buying a new $1300-$1800 suit.

And I didn't know much about drysuit valve placement when I bought it, I figured they were pretty much all in the spot they needed to be.

 

[Bubbletrubble]

I hope that you don't have to put too much money into the suit before it's dive-able.

Used drysuits can turn into money pits...very quickly. It sounds like you got a good deal, so long as the seams are in good shape and the zipper is in good condition.

 

[elan]

I want to move my drysuit exhaust valve and un-move it if it doesn't work out. I've seen the port and plug for sale, but I cant find a site that sells them. Any suggestions?

Also, what's the proceedure for installing one on a bilam suit? Do I need the valve port that is glued in before you screw the valve down?

I would higly recommend you to get a book Wetsuit and Drysuit maintenance and repair by airspeed press. The book is worth every penny I paid for it.

I was recently doing what you are doing now. The procedure is not very tricky. I will tell you what I did.

-I removed my valve and placed it into a soap water to soak.
- While it's doing it I took a hair dryer and heated the port and the material (you can skip this if you plug the old one and get the new port)
- Little by little, cutting the glue I peeled that port off while heating and cutting the glue. When I had enough grip I just heat it well and peeled it off. You have to heat it or you can damage the suit as the glue becomes softer when heated.
- I then glued the old hole (I skip this step for you)
- I put the dry suit on with the undergarment I have and took the position I hae when diving (I was laying on the floor in front of the mirror), then I took the piece of soap and marked where I want the valve to be, looking at which point is the highest when I lift the arm slightly. It turned out to be the outside of my arm between biceps and triceps.
- I cut a hole using scissors which the diameter being a bit smaller than the diameter of the port
- I cleaned the glue from the old port using Dremel tool with fine sand paper then buffed up the internal surface of the sleeve - where the port is glued on, and the port you can use just a sand paper.
- cleaned up the stuff using acetone. You can use MEK but it's not as readily available here.
- applied 3 layers of PB300 glue on the port and the internal surface of the suit. (make the marks where the port edges are before applying the glue) and let it dry after each layer. (I would highly recommend using this glue as it allows you to activate it with heat after you put everything together).
- place the port into the position and heat the material from the outside of the sleeve (this will activate the glue and both parts will stick together)
- press firmly on the material around the hole

- screw in the port tight but do not over-tighten it - it's plastic.

let it dry for 24 hours

plug in the other hole

enjoy your new valve

 

[elan]

I hope that you don't have to put too much money into the suit before it's dive-able.

Used drysuits can turn into money pits...very quickly. It sounds like you got a good deal, so long as the seams are in good shape and the zipper is in good condition.

bubble , new suits can turn into the money pits too A good example is my suit. If I was not doing it all by myself I wold have spent at least 600 in fixing different things.

I paid 150 for the materials and parts.

 

[WASP7000]

Sweet! Thanks for the step by step process elan.

One question. This suit I believe is a bilam, so when I cut that hole, will there be 2 loose layers there? and if so, do I need to put a little glue between those layers to keep them together when screwing down the valve?


The parts will be about $50-$60 for me to do it, so it's not too bad, and no leaks as of yet, zipper looks really good.