I'm SO confused...what compact camera(s) should I look at??

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Not having white balance, means you need a strobe - a significant cost increase.
Only if you shoot JPEG. WB'ing a raw file in post will give the same result as if you used manual WB during shooting.

And just to show that I'm an old fart: there's auto, and there's auto. Shooting in A mode - which originally was called aperture priority auto - with TTL strobe gives me at least as good control over the result as if I were shooting full manual. And it's faster. But don't get me started about "green auto"...
 
My God, there's me saying I know noting about cameras, and I'm assuming everyone realises that RAW means the data in the camera straight from the sensor. Over all this time I must have learnt something!

Yes sorry - all my early pictures where JPEG. I did save RAW files, but had no idea what to do with them, or nothing that could open them.

And yes, theres Automatic, (P i think on the Cannon), Aperture priority, Shutter Priority and Manual.
 
Speaking of high regard for older model cameras ... check out Donald Tan on IG.
The macro photos this guy gets using the Olympus C-8080 (13 year old compact 8mp camera) is friggin amazing.

There are others like some German chap called: lovetheocean_photograpahy, Eko Wahyudi and Faissl Aljarkas - all shooting G16's with unbelieveable results.

Goes to show that even though technology has come up in leaps and bounds you can still get incredible results from older point and shoots.
 
I've got a Sealife DC1400 with flashes. My wife can't seem to get used to the camera, and I want to get something different, this time for me to use. I've flooded a GoPro, and I think I would prefer to get something with one or two flashes and something I can take photos instead of video.

Lots of opinions but let me ask the missing question. Why cannot she get used to it? If complexity is the issue then a different camera may not help. For simplicity take her DC 1400, Is that with the digital pro flash? If so set the flash to auto. Now get a sealife wide angle lens. The wider one. Then you set the autofocus to near and leave it there. The lens gives you more depth of field. Now you are down to 1 setting. Setting the flash to close, medium, far. Under most conditions the medium is best unless you are shooting closeups. For far it does not matter since most things are out of range of all the settings and slight underexposures are easy to fix in software.
 
I've got a Sealife DC1400 with flashes. My wife can't seem to get used to the camera, and I want to get something different, this time for me to use. I've flooded a GoPro, and I think I would prefer to get something with one or two flashes and something I can take photos instead of video.

I'm definitely a beginner photographer, but I'd like to get something I can bring to my next Bonaire trip.

Who is the best to buy from?

I would suggest to have a look at the Sony RX-100, but the older Mk 2 version. Great image quality and last I looked, still available new for around $500. Pair with a Meikon housing for around $250 and you can get fantastic photos, if you have the savvy. Add a couple of strobes and a wet wide angle lens or some diopters for macro and you can really shoot anything.
 
I would suggest to have a look at the Sony RX-100, but the older Mk 2 version. Great image quality and last I looked, still available new for around $500. Pair with a Meikon housing for around $250 and you can get fantastic photos, if you have the savvy. Add a couple of strobes and a wet wide angle lens or some diopters for macro and you can really shoot anything.

While I haven't used it myself, it is my understanding that RX100 II, like most compact cameras, suffers from significant shutter lag due to only having contrast-detection autofocus. RX100 V is the first model in the series to add phase-detection AF, but it is significantly more expensive, although the rumored imminent introduction of RX100 VI might push the prices down a little.
 
I think it will all depend on the quality of the images you’re trying to capture.

My bro in law has a sea life with strobe. He has taken it on I’d say 2 dozen dives. Has not taken a single good pic yet.

I’m happy not having spent $1000 for something I’ll only use 2x a yr. Plus I am happy taking a few videos and pics and not being “that photographer guy” everyone hates on the boat.

Here’s a few samples of what I have captured with a cheap $150 go-pro clone with a generic Ikelite red filter (no strobe)

03_turtle_03.jpg


2016_1028_125321_002.jpg


san_fran_01.jpg
 
While I haven't used it myself, it is my understanding that RX100 II, like most compact cameras, suffers from significant shutter lag due to only having contrast-detection autofocus. RX100 V is the first model in the series to add phase-detection AF, but it is significantly more expensive, although the rumored imminent introduction of RX100 VI might push the prices down a little.

PD AF is, generally speaking (but not always), better. But, I don't get the impression that the OP is looking to drop $2 - 3K for a camera rig and I think that is what you'd be looking at for a camera with PD AF plus a housing. And, of course, it's kind of silly to spend that much on a camera and housing and not spend for the strobes you would really need to get the full benefit of the camera.

The RX-100, pre-Mark V, can take FANTASTIC photos. I have dived with a buddy who shot some award-winning photos with his. Actually, I think just about any halfway decent camera can get really good photos if you have good lighting (usually meaning good strobes) and the skill to capture the image.

Also, even my "fancy" Olympus mirrorless camera uses CD AD. It is also capable of capturing very nice images. A camera with good CD AF is still good. Probably even better than a "nicer" camera with a poor implementation of PD AF (a la some early 4/3 format cameras, I think - not the newer micro4/3).

In short, the suggestion that an RX-100 Mk 2, Mk 3, or Mk 4, is anything less than a really nice camera for u/w shooting is, in my opinion, off base.

I shoot with a Meikon housing. They are really inexpensive, but mine works well and the few reviews I've found here or on WetPixel.com all seem positive. The only time I've ever had any issue with my housing (in over a year with it now), is diving the Tarpon, off of Hatteras. I was at 135 feet or so and some of the buttons were being pressed and held down by the water pressure. But, the housing is only rated for 132', so I'm not too upset about it. At least it has never leaked!

If you want to judge for yourself whether CD AF is any good, I posted some photos from my outing in June here:

Wreck Shark Shootout 2017

I feel like it's only my skill, not my camera's AF system that is holding me back.

Like I said before, an RX-100 Mk 2 with a Meikon housing, for around $750 total, is a really hard package to beat for someone who wants to try u/w photography but it not yet ready to drop the big bucks.

Used is also a legit consideration. I only have my Olympus mirrorless camera because I found it on Craigslist for $400 with the kit lens plus a decent longer lens...
 
I'm not disputing that RX100 series cameras take great images, but the shutter lag, particularly when trying to shoot a moving subject, can be infuriating. I dipped my toes into UW photography with a rented Panasonic DMC-FX35, and compared to that, my Sony A6300 is simply a joy to shoot - and it didn't cost me that much more than your quoted number of $750; I paid $837 for the camera with kit lens and $251 for the Meikon/SeaFrogs housing.
 
I think it will all depend on the quality of the images you’re trying to capture.
My bro in law has a sea life with strobe. He has taken it on I’d say 2 dozen dives. Has not taken a single good pic yet.

I am not saying that anyone should get a sealife. But your comment may say more about your brothers photo taking then it does about the sealife camera. I shoot a sealife DC 1200 with digital pro flash in often not very good conditions since I use it a lot for fish ID later. Sometimes the pictures turn out good enough for me to share with some folks and I am fussy about what I share.

If a gun always misses the target it may be the shooter and not just the gun.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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