nereas
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mahjong:
And I, on the other hand, would avoid anything with DUI written on it like the plague.
I need drysuit advice!
- Thread starter MaxPower
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And I, on the other hand, would avoid anything with DUI written on it like the plague.
nereas
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GONEHAWKN:
BARE suits are very popular. But make sure you get the thickest most rugged model that they offer, if you go with them. Most of their suits tend to be fragile and tear easily.
MSilvia
Contributor
I have a BARE ATR-HD, and I'm very happy with it. Not only does it not tear easily, it's damn near puncture-proof. When I installed the P-valve, I used a brand new very sharp punch with a block of hardwood as a backing. I had to hit the punch about 20 times with a heavy hammer to make a visible dent in the drysuit's leg, and another 20 times with renewed vigor to get a small fraction of the small hole to go all the way through. I ended up having to finish the hole with an exacto knife and soldiering iron. Fragile, it ain't.
If you'll be wreck diving and want a suit you don't have to worry about ripping on jagged bits of metal, that would be my recommendation.
If you'll be wreck diving and want a suit you don't have to worry about ripping on jagged bits of metal, that would be my recommendation.
dbulmer
Contributor
MaxPower,
I'm with Mark Vlahos - whatever you get make sure it fits you well.
I used to have a badly fitting suit and it was really hard work to get any decent buoyancy control from it in the 5m to 0m range. My old suit was a good quality Otter that was quite heavy to wear but would not puncture easily.
My current suit fits me better but is far less rugged yet I prefer it because it is easier to carry, easier to repair, drys out more quickly (yes DUI are superb fitting suits but they are not as rugged as some suits and at some point will need repair) and most
importantly allows me to control my buoyancy far better than my old suit did.
As a UK diver most of our diving is around wrecks and the punctures I've had have not been from wrecks but from bolts/wingnuts from my BP/W. IMHO what you need to be careful with is your choice of undersuits and thermals. In your position I'd order a 400g Thinsulate B undersuit and some Xerotherm wicking wear - those items are bloody expensive but give you the ability to dive all year round and give you some decent insulation if your suit should flood (I had a full flood about 2 weeks ago)
I'm with Mark Vlahos - whatever you get make sure it fits you well.
I used to have a badly fitting suit and it was really hard work to get any decent buoyancy control from it in the 5m to 0m range. My old suit was a good quality Otter that was quite heavy to wear but would not puncture easily.
My current suit fits me better but is far less rugged yet I prefer it because it is easier to carry, easier to repair, drys out more quickly (yes DUI are superb fitting suits but they are not as rugged as some suits and at some point will need repair) and most
importantly allows me to control my buoyancy far better than my old suit did.
As a UK diver most of our diving is around wrecks and the punctures I've had have not been from wrecks but from bolts/wingnuts from my BP/W. IMHO what you need to be careful with is your choice of undersuits and thermals. In your position I'd order a 400g Thinsulate B undersuit and some Xerotherm wicking wear - those items are bloody expensive but give you the ability to dive all year round and give you some decent insulation if your suit should flood (I had a full flood about 2 weeks ago)
PerroneFord
Contributor
If he wears a Thinsulate 400g and Xerotherm in the caves that he mentions he wants to dive, he'll overheat in very short order. I tried my 300g Thinsulate undergarment for a dive in Devils Eye at Ginnie Springs once. I left the water with my undergarment soaked with sweat.
Clearly, he is going to need something like a 200g polarfleece for the warmer waters, and something like you mentioned for diving his home waters.
Clearly, he is going to need something like a 200g polarfleece for the warmer waters, and something like you mentioned for diving his home waters.
dbulmer
Contributor
In caves sure, but he's at 25 dives how long will it be before he's ready ?ie buoyancy control and mentality? It may well be by that stage his 400g would need replacing.
Secondly the Xerotherm is a wicking layer that can be used under a wetsuit so it can be used if he tries cavern dives and does not want to carry a drysuit with him.
Secondly the Xerotherm is a wicking layer that can be used under a wetsuit so it can be used if he tries cavern dives and does not want to carry a drysuit with him.
dbulmer
Contributor
And I sweat like hell in 16C so you do have a valid point 
PerroneFord
Contributor
The problem in this area, is that the springs are the same temps as the caves. So even if the diver came to this area to do any OW diving, the problem would be the same.
Oddly enough, some UK divers were over here doing some course, and they were wearing Xerotherms ONLY under their neoprene drysuits... And these were 2-4 hour dives. None complained about being even chilly.
Oddly enough, some UK divers were over here doing some course, and they were wearing Xerotherms ONLY under their neoprene drysuits... And these were 2-4 hour dives. None complained about being even chilly.
dbulmer
Contributor
Neoprene drysuits? Presumably O3s?
I use a Trilam and you could use an Arctic Xerotherm (similar to 200g) in summer but I use the same config throughout the season. I never get that warm until we hit 16C and above. I also have less bioprene than some folks
I use a Trilam and you could use an Arctic Xerotherm (similar to 200g) in summer but I use the same config throughout the season. I never get that warm until we hit 16C and above. I also have less bioprene than some folks
I wanted a bare but I could not get the one I wanted custom uutil the end of the year so I went with a diving concepts and I can't wait to get it
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