HP Tanks - Never DIR?

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salty,

Good point about diving wet with steel tanks. For me, though, I dive dry year round, so unless I'm going to start mixing my own gas, I guess I'll stick with the hps.
 
If you are weighted properly you should be able to maintain 10 ft with near empty tanks and no air in the bc or suit(if diving dry). This goes for dry or wet.

Correct so far.

If diving wet you need enough weight to over come the boyency of the tanks and your suit. At the end of the dive this should be around 5-10 pounds for the suit and 4 pounds if diving double steel tanks.

Not unless you're diving helium.

The weight of the air (or Nitrox) in an AL80 is approximately 5lbs. For a pair of double 100s, the weight of the AIR is 10lbs.

It weighs 10lbs no matter if you have it in aluminum tanks, fiberglass tanks, or STEEL tanks! It makes ABSOLUTELY ZERO DIFFERENCE WHAT THE CONTAINER IS MADE OUT OF!

The weight required to sink the SUIT is also an invarient. The type of tank you dive has no bearing on the suit's buoyancy! The ONLY bearing on the suit's buoyancy shift is the suit's construction (not just its thickness, but the specifics of how much gas is in the neoprene, etc)

So is the weight required to sink YOU (which is typically a few lbs; if you're extraordinarily muscular, you may even be negative, but this is uncommon. If you're obese you will require more weight - possibly significant weight. Most "average" people need anywhere from 2-6lbs to sink THEM.)

OK so far no problem, now lets check the start of the dive. You hop in with 15 pounds on your waist and 20 on your back due to the weight of your tanks. At 100 feet your suit has compressed and has no redundent lift. So you add air to your wing and find out there is a hole and it wont hold air. Now you have to swim up 20 pounds because your weight belt is off(ditched because no one is swiming up 35 pounds from 100ft). Back at 40 feet you cant slow down because you sucked down half you tank because it was so hard to swim up that weight and your CO2 retention is at its peek. So your too light to maintain depth and you pop to the surface. Sounds like a sucky day to me.

The material the tank is made of is IRRELAVENT to this discussion.

Let's take the hypothetical diver with an AL80 on his back. EMPTY, that tank is +5. With a couple hundred lbs of air its +4 (which is what we do our weight check with, since if its COMPLETELY empty you want to be on the surface, for obvious reasons)

The diver is inherently +2, and he wears a full 3 mil wetsuit that is +9.

He thus requires 9 + 2 + 5 or 15lbs of total negative ballast to be able to stay below the surface at the end of the dive.

This diver puts on a steel backplate and STA, which is -9. He then puts on a weight belt with 6lbs of lead, and is now -15. This is a balanced rig and he now can go diving.

Now, said diver gets to the bottom. His wetsuit, which started out as +9, is now +1. He also has 5lbs of gas in the tank (he breathed one on the way down), so he is -13 overall. He goes to add 13lbs of buoyancy to the wing and finds that the elbow has detached, making it useless. He is still -13, and now must swim up a -13 lb kit. As he begins to ascend the suit regains 8lbs, and when he reaches the surface he is -4 (he breathed another lb of air on the way up.) He ditches his belt ON THE SURFACE and is now +2, and safe.

Now let's run the numbers for HP steel 80s.

The diver takes an Aluminum BP + STA. It is -6. He has on the same wetsuit, which is +9, and he's +2. The tank is -1 empty, and -7 full (same amount of mass for the gas).

The diver therefore needs 4lbs of lead to sink. He goes diving, and at the bottom the same thing happens. He is -6 for the tank (he breathed one on the way down), +1 for the suit, -6 for his BP + STA, and -4 for the lead. He is therefore -15 and has to swim that up, which is awfully close to -13, isn't it? When he reaches the surface, he is +3 (BP+STA+suit) - 5 for the tank (breathed one more on the way up) or -2 - he ditches and is +2, which is perfectly fine.

Now let's say you wear DOUBLES - either AL80s OR HP Steels.

With Double AL80s, you have +10 for the tanks empty, +9 for the suit, -9 for the plate and STA, and +2 for you. That's 11lbs of lead that you must carry.

You get to the bottom, and are -1 for the tanks, +1 for the suit, +2 for you, -9 for the plate and -11 for the lead. He's therefore -18, which is pretty un-good! If he gets back to the surface, and ditches, he can still be very close to positive or neutral though.

With Double HP80s, you have -2 for the tanks empty, +9 for the suit, -6 for the BP + sta, and +2 for you. You thus must carry 3lbs of lead.

You get to the bottom, and are -12 for the tanks, +1 for the suit, +2 for you, -6 for the plate and -3 for the lead. You are therefore still -18 at the bottom! Heh, wait a second! Wasn't the argument that HP steels are MORE negative? No they're not!

Now if you swim them up, you could have trouble though. You get back to the surface and are -11 for the tanks, +9 for the suit, +2 for you, -6 for the plate and you ditch the lead. You're still -6! Oh oh! But the good news is that -6 isn't all that bad, really, and further, you DO have 10lbs of gas in there - so as you breathe it while finning upward to stay at or near the surface, you will (before the gas runs out) become +4. Whew!

Why take the chance?

What chance? You are almost exactly as negative with steels as aluminums, all things considered. You are taking no additional risk, EXCEPT possibly at the surface after you swim up the kit. In an extreme case you could DITCH the kit and float like a cork, or simply breathe it down until it becomes positive on-balance.

The diver who uses a steel plate with the HP steelies doesn't need a weight belt at all (or if he does, its only a pound or two.) Yet he is NO MORE NEGATIVE AT DEPTH than the diver WITH the belt (the balance works out the same!) The only possible risk is that he cannot ditch the belt at the surface to insure positive buoyancy - the upside is that he can't ACCIDENTALLY drop the belt at 100'!

That is why it is a bad idea to wear steel with a wet suit.

Only if you can't do the math.

The mass of the air in the tanks is not dependant on what contains them. If you cannot swim the kit up from depth with full tanks, due to the weight of the gas contained in them, then you should carry a redundant means of buoyancy, whether its a drysuit or something else.

The reason for the claim that you should not dive steelies when wet is based upon low pressure steel tanks, which are commonly -6 or -7 EMPTY! With a -6 BP+STA, that's -13 or so with NO gas, which exceeds the buoyancy of the suit plus the diver at the surface. THAT is a dangerous combination. Put TWO of those on a diver and he's a stone in the water.

The issue is NOT the material the tank is made of - it is the EMPTY buoyancy of the tank, and thus what must be compensated for (either negative or positive) by the rest of the kit.

With a drysuit having tanks that are -14 and a -9 STA+BP is kinda nice, as you might easily be +20 with the suit and underwear! Thus, you wind up needing a REASONABLE amount of weight to sink you, whereas otherwise you end up walking around looking like a lead foundary and might even need TWO weight belts to hold it all :)
 
The statement by Salty that a wet suit has lost all buoyancy at 100 feet is not true. They retain about 1/3-1/2 of their buoyancy at that depth, depending on rubber blend and age of the suit. Some types of rubber have even less compression and buoyancy variation. Having said that, I do believe that diving certain types of doubled steel tanks, HP and LP could be unwise at deeper depths. However, Using a wetsuit or no suit, I dived double 72's for years with no problem.

About this redundancy thing. The whole idea of the BC was to allow a safety margin for buoyant ascent as well as provide a means of trim control during routine maneuvers. Now, DIR is saying that the BC is not enough, it needs a backup in the form of a buoyant tank or barring that, additional lift? Well, maybe the extra bag was Genesis' input to counter DIR's requirement but the thought is similar. Redundant everything to counter some perceived safety issue. I really think DIR is all about 'publish or perish' and have a steady need for 'issues', no matter how thin.
 
is that you need to be able to swim your kit up from the maximum depth you can (or will, under any conceivable means) reach on a given dive, with a punctured (or otherwise unusable) primary lift device, and WITHOUT ditching weight.

If you can do that then whatever you're diving is fine.

If you cannot do that, then you need some form of redundancy for your lift so that you will be able to do so.

Ditching weight at depth is not an option. It will reliably produce a run-away uncontrollable ascent and for that reason is IMHO an unacceptable procedure.
 
Ditching weight and uncontrollable ascent is an argument for using negatively buoyant (steel) tanks. In this regard, for diving wet at sport diving depths I prefer to use a fairly heavy Faber HP tank. However, even if forced to make a rapid ascent it doen't mean the end of the world unless the DC obligation is large. Normally, nothing will happen but, as a precaution, the diver should be prepared to make a round trip with a spare tank.

The automobile air bag is a good example of redundancy. Now, I have to use a seat belt to protect myself from the air bag. Similarly, by promoting steel plates with double tanks, DIR creates a problem in order to solve it.
 
I have both AL and Steel plates, and use each as is appropriate...

Not a big deal.

My usual "singles" rig is a steel BP and STA. Why? Because with an HP tank I need no (or less, depending on what exposure I'm diving) weight, and with an AL80 my weight is still manageable.

For doubles the AL plate may be a better choice wet. Dry the steel helps with the positive buoyancy and keeps the belt manageable.
 

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