How to remove stripped frozen DIN Insert?

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ScubaSarus

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I just coverted my reg to DIN. Only my steel with an OMS valve the DIN insert was frozen in the valve. The hex wrench completely stripped the female hex in the insert and now it is perfectly round.

I have options.

1) Keep using it a yoke and keep changing my reg back and forth.
2) Get a new valve (dive shops suggestion $100).
3) Or try and remove insert like I used to do with broken automobile bolts.

My plan would be to drill a slot or larger hole as close to the threads as possible then us a hammer and solid chisel to bang in the insert since there is a lip I could catch to reduce the OD of the insert. Once reduced its an easy turn. I used to do this on broken bolts after drilling the out. The metal has to be soft or the threads would have stripped so easy.

Also I know I need to be careful about damaging the internal DIN O-Ring seat area.

Any other ideas?
 
You can try to remove the insert with a "counter threaded tool" (I don't know how it's called in english), but dont use a hammer. Just use torque as much as you can, and either the insert opens, or the tool gets busted. In that case you best to buy a new valve.
 
Pull the valve and soak it for a week in F/W. Then attack it with hot water, ice, and that easy-out. Soak the valve in hot water for 5 minutes. Then drop a piece of ice on the insert and let the thermal expansion/contraction work to break up the corrosion and salt deposits. After a few cycles of that, give the easy-out a try. If it doesn't give up with reasonable force, go back to the hot/cold treatments. Or let it soak for another week and then try again. Patience will prevail with this one.
 
awap has a plan there, I like it

and a note on those "Easy-Out" get the straight ones, not the ones that cork screw, the reverse cork screw ones seem always to go deeper and deeper into the hole, wedging, and usually break off at that point and now your ****d becuse you now have a piece of hardened metal plugging the hole
 
First let me suggest removing the valve first. Slivers of previous insert will no doubt require complete cleaning. After the valve is out use an Easy-out to remove the insert. Clean everything - then clean everyting again. However, a new valve is a simple answer if working with tools like these are a challenge.
Easy_Out_Tool.gif
Get the one that fits the hole.

Dave
 
I think I'd try an easy-out, much as I despise them. I've had good luck with them on frozen and stripped faucet seats, which are in many ways similar.

Impact is often very effective in loosening things in this sort of instance. Try carefully hammering on the insert, using a large drift or similar improvised tool, to avoid damaging the valve - you are not trying to smash it loose, but rather jar it enough to break it free. Soaking it in a 50/50 vinegar/water solution may help too, but the valve will have to be cleaned and relubed after (as it should be anyhow!).
 
Just one more question. Im assuming its not safe to think the compressed air can blow out the metal chips and the valve definitly needs servicing.

I was actually going to eye dropper on the vinegar but notice I have some 30% gycolic acic that can be used if applied very lightly.
 
Easy-Out .. this is what I was talking about when I said straight one ... http://toolprice.com/product/1220C

I've had the other ones , with a reverse twist go deep into the hole and break off

More apt to happen too if you use one too small and goes too deep inside, not to mention that it's expanding the plug that your trying to remove
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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