how to build your own (cheap) light canister...

[jonnythan]

PhotoTJ once bubbled...


OK, wise a$$, a simple more or less would do nicely. Or do you know?

Padipro, can you answer this for me?

I wasn't trying to make fun of you. Just laughing because the difference is pretty dramatic. For the same wattage you get a *dramatically* brighter light.

 

[Aquamaniac]

Here is my last effort.

Dave

 

[Padipro]

HID lights a more desierable then Halogen for several reasons.

1. The light "Color Temperature" is greater and results in a more natural looking light.

2. The light output, rated in Lumens, is far greater then for an equivalent wattage Halogen bulb.

3. The HID light requires less energy to burn, once started, then a halogen light so burn times can be up to 4 times longer with the same size battery pack.

50W HID....3200 Lumens and 5800 deg K color temp
24W HID....1850 Lumens and 5460 deg K color temp
18W HID....1150 Lumens and 6250 deg K color temp

50W Halogen....1000 Lumens and 3050 deg K color temp
35 W Halogen....700 Lumens and 3050 deg K color temp
25 W Halogen....500 Lumens and 3050 deg K color Temp

The new "Solex" Halogen bulbs have color temps of 3500K to 4700K

Some typical color temperatures are:

1500 k Candlelight

2680 k 40 W incandescent lamp

3000 k 200 W incandescent lamp

3200 k Sunrise/sunset

3400 k Tungsten lamp

3400 k 1 hour from dusk/dawn

5000-4500 k Xenon lamp/light arc

5500 k Sunny daylight around noon

5500-5600 k Electronic photo flash

6500-7500 k Overcast sky

9000-12000 k Blue sky

Scott

 

[DavidG]

Padipro & DeepScuba,
I understand the part about the ballast being the determining factor in the equasion. It's determining the wattage at the point of the arc strike that's impossible for me. But that aside, THANK YOU VERY MUCH. I was thinking of trying other fuses (3, 4, or even 5 amp and maybe even slow burns) but was hesitating because I was thinking "If I allow too much current I'd blow the lamp". And at $100 a lamp that would not be a cool thing.

I'll go buy some fuses and see if I can melt the ballast

One other thing. I know it's the in thing right now to have the illumination of the sun with us on dives but I'm actually thinking that going HID may be a mistake. There are several potential drawbacks;
1.) There is the high power draw at startup. So most users keep their light on for the whole dive. If you want to experience photophosforesence (sp) on a night dive, shutting down and re lighting the bulb will rapidly drain your batteries.
2.) Many critters will hide from that bright of a light.
3.) The bulbs can be delicate, and if you drop your light head while gearing up, it might cost you $100 for a new bulb.
4.) With the Bulb/ballast and maybe even the NiMH's, the light IS NOT CHEEP!

For me, taking my camera with on every dive, the critter thing is my issue. If it weren't for the fact that I have this LightCannon and already have the NiMH's I would go Halogen. I may be one of the few folks who starts out with a HID that converts it back to a Halogen

 

[divermasterB]

DavidG once bubbled...
Padipro & DeepScuba,
I understand the part about the ballast being the determining factor in the equasion. It's determining the wattage at the point of the arc strike that's impossible for me. But that aside, THANK YOU VERY MUCH. I was thinking of trying other fuses (3, 4, or even 5 amp and maybe even slow burns) but was hesitating because I was thinking "If I allow too much current I'd blow the lamp". And at $100 a lamp that would not be a cool thing.

One thing to keep in mind is that the fuse is simply a safety switch. It blows itself to keep other components protected. If I have something that requires a 3 amp fuse, and I put a 5 amp fuse in it, this will not change how the device operates, it simply means that in a failure (i.e. short circuit) I may not be protecting the components as much.

So, if youre light will run fine on 2 amps with a 3 amp fuse, for example. Putting a 5 amp fuse in place will not change the operation of the light.

1.) There is the high power draw at startup. So most users keep their light on for the whole dive. If you want to experience photophosforesence (sp) on a night dive, shutting down and re lighting the bulb will rapidly drain your batteries.

Try holding the light against your chest. I wouldn't advise shutting down a light at any point during a dive unless absolutely necessary. The highest probability of blowing a bulb is when you are starting it. Turning on and off the light, just increases the risk. Especially with Incandescent.

2.) Many critters will hide from that bright of a light.

3.) The bulbs can be delicate, and if you drop your light head while gearing up, it might cost you $100 for a new bulb.
4.) With the Bulb/ballast and maybe even the NiMH's, the light IS NOT CHEEP!

Sounds like you already spent the money.

For me, taking my camera with on every dive, the critter thing is my issue. If it weren't for the fact that I have this LightCannon and already have the NiMH's I would go Halogen. I may be one of the few folks who starts out with a HID that converts it back to a Halogen

Try the diffusers that came with the canon, makes a nice even light, and not as likely to scare off the critters.

 

[DavidG]

I know in fact that it is the batteries. I HAD two 2 x 3-4-3 (20 AA's) battery packs made up - 10 in series and then the two groups of 10 wired in parallel so that I get twice the available amperage while still maintaining the same voltage.
Out of frustration I tore open one and re-configured it to a 1 x 3-4-3 (10 AA's) pack. Guess what, at full charge the 10 pack works great, haven't blown a fuse yet. So I know it is the fact that NiMH's are designed to allow a very high discharge rate. That in conjunction with a design (ballast and fusing) that is for Alkaline or Nicad's (which have a lower maximum discharge capability).

As far as the fusing, my statement of using up to a 5amp fuse was within the context that I will step up the fuse rating until I find one that does not blow and then stay at that level.

Thank's everyone, I have no one to talk this thru with, but by being able to discuss this with you it has helped me not only decide on a course of action, but back it up with logical reasoning.

I'll post the results on this thread once I find the answer.

 

[DavidG]

padipro & deepscuba,
I haven't looked back in this thread to see who gave me the idea but THANK YOU BOTH! The fuse is only there to prevent a major catastrophy, not regulate the voltage, or amprage. A 3 amp fuse worked great. I'm getting 3.5 hrs (three dives) per charge. Next I'll build the canister and head with goodman style handle.

Whoever you are, you said it so that I understood - Thanks a million - Dave

 

[8buck]

Hey I have put together my light head and jb welded the end cap and siliconed it sam thing with the head unit ran a bead around the glass and the switch and jb-welded the switch in place. Did you all have this many problems sealing your head units i read padi pro had a few problems did he/you ever get them fixed

 

[whalerkyle]

Hi everyone, I just found this thread and it is FANTASTIC!!! I have a few questions for the people that have built the light.......1) The mag light lense, is it the original plastic lense? If not what is it and where do you get it? 2)Where do you get that 12 volt battery, and what aH should it be? 3) How do you charge the battery?

Thanks in advance everyone, I need a new project.


Kyle

 

[rjens]

Here is a link to an online battery store. Read back through this thread, or do a search to get more specifics on the battery that fits your needs.

Battery Station

RJ