How Many of You Drysuit Divers Replace Your Own Seals?

[Cyprian]

I replaced a set of wrist seals on my TLS suit (now regulated to backup status) and it was a painless process. However, I went to zip seals on my new suit and am a happier person.

 

[Bopper]

As you said, it usually isn't a big deal (I say usually, because I'm currently struggling with one that doesn't seem to want to bond well).

Hmmm...why the problem? I've thought about creating a "success/disaster" thread that tries to document which glues go well with different materials. As I mentioned, I used DAP Weldwood for Latex/Urethane. Is your problem a glue problem or something else?

as long as you have access to a T-bottle to put the neck of the suit over, that's pretty easy,

Errr...forgive me...what's a T-bottle?

I spent 12 dollars on Aqua-Seal to put the pee valve in, but Gamble Scuba only charged me $20 bucks to install it correctly. For 8 bucks difference, I'll let the professionals screw with my suit.

Yeah when that's the math, you pretty much need to step away from the heat gun and let the experts do their thing.

From all types of glue that we tried to use with my buddy PB300 seems to be the best.

From the research I did prior to my "experiment" this glue came up A LOT as the best solution. Everyone mentioned a company called OS Systems as a distributor. But when I checked their website, I just couldn't find it on their price list even though they still mention it. I couldn't research (wait) any longer and just went to my local hardware store and bought the very cheap Weldwood cement. If I recall correctly, the drawback of the Weldwood vs the PB300 was that the Weldwood doesn't respond to heat as well, which is an advantage (with any drysuit glue) when its time to change the seals and remove them. With PB300 you just heat the glued section up (heat gun) and it becomes tacky and you can rip the seals clean off. With the Weldwood that probably won't be possible as you can try to heat it up as much as you want but the latex will probably melt before the glue becomes tacky again. I'll probably have to cut most of the old seals off and glue the new seals over the seals that remained.

BUT - As far as the bond that the Weldwood created and it's post-cured pliability, like I said I couldn't be happier. It's been less than a month with the new seals so I cant say anything about the long term prospects about durability but the short term looks promising.

I replaced a set of wrist seals on my TLS suit (now regulated to backup status) and it was a painless process. However, I went to zip seals on my new suit and am a happier person.

There's a website called SeaSkin that sells the oval SiTech ring system for less than $55 USD. I'm getting a little cocky so I just *might* have to replace my perfectly good latex seals on my Bare NexGen with a set of these.

This site also sells pairs of latex wrist seals for $8 USD. This makes screwing up very affordable.

 

[Peter_C]

I have done it all...except make a drysuit from scratch. Replaced boots, changed countless seals, moved valves and of course replaced valves, multiple zippers, installed a few pee valves, fixed numerous leaks, including using patches, installed the Neck Tite system, installed permanent wrist rings, glued new seals onto the ZIP system, changed neck seals, replaced wrist seals, reaplaced ankel seals, pressure tested for leaks...well you get the idea. I also made my own neck seal replacement jigs for both inside and outside seals (One from Melamine and one from steel). There is nothing special about repairing gear, just get out and do it!

 

[JKPAO]

And don't be afraid to do it again! If it feels good.......
See you topside! John