Exactly.
It's not so much that I felt guilty - more that it was completely disgusting pulling out mushy dead crabs in pieces using a toothpick. Yuck!
How do you clean shells?
- Thread starter Scotttyd
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Exactly.
It's not so much that I felt guilty - more that it was completely disgusting pulling out mushy dead crabs in pieces using a toothpick. Yuck!
cmburch
Contributor
Abalone shells can also be donated in Sonoma and Mendocino after of course eating the abalone. I have heard that conch fritters are good in Florida. Scallops can be left on the substrate by propping open the shell with an abalone iron and removing the adductor with an old butter knife. Just be careful not to cut in half or CA DFG will count it as 2 scallops.
My yard has abalone shells, jade, scallop shells, oyster, mussels, and others that we eat. They line areas and are decoration in planters. It is good for the chickens (egg production), but a hiding place for slugs and snails (chickens will also eat).
I can understand landlocked divers or those that may not eat fresh shellfish or think about shells in tourist areas may have a different opinion about legal collecting for consumption or use and cleaning of invertebrates.
My yard has abalone shells, jade, scallop shells, oyster, mussels, and others that we eat. They line areas and are decoration in planters. It is good for the chickens (egg production), but a hiding place for slugs and snails (chickens will also eat).
I can understand landlocked divers or those that may not eat fresh shellfish or think about shells in tourist areas may have a different opinion about legal collecting for consumption or use and cleaning of invertebrates.
The Brandon
Registered
I am going to make this quick because when my buds see I posted to this I will receive a ration of ****.
- submerge in 50% bleach/water for 24 hours
- rinse and soak thoroughly in water
- soak in 50% or less vineager/water, watch carefully and remove when deposits are gone.
- DO NOT use Muriatic Acid
- rinse and soak thoroughly in water
- pick off large deposits with dental pick (available from diveriteexpress.com)
- resoak in vineager/water if necessary
- rinse and soak thoroughly
- coat with mileral oil
- submerge in 50% bleach/water for 24 hours
- rinse and soak thoroughly in water
- soak in 50% or less vineager/water, watch carefully and remove when deposits are gone.
- DO NOT use Muriatic Acid
- rinse and soak thoroughly in water
- pick off large deposits with dental pick (available from diveriteexpress.com)
- resoak in vineager/water if necessary
- rinse and soak thoroughly
- coat with mileral oil
just remember vinegar will dissolve the calcium in the shell - if it's a shiny shell (cowery) the shine will be gone the second the vinegar hits the shell 
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Conchology ; Conch = sea shell , ology = study
Therefore conchology is the study of sea shells; and for the last 300 to 400 years has been associated with the collection of sea shells.
It is a hobby enjoyed by many; the collecting, studying, cataloging and displaying sea shells. Many many conchology books have been written, many collections have been amassed, possibly the world's largest by the Du Ponts of the chemical family fame and fortune.
Like all professional collections value is based on condition, condition and condition with the factor of rarity as a secondary consideration. In most amateur collections value is of little importance with memories and beauty being primary. It is event that from reading the posts that all are amateur collectors.
Some thoughts to consider;
* Never ever submerge sea shells in a caustic substance such as bleach, or acids, such as muriatic or vinegar, which will destroy the natural luster and finish the specimen.
* Never ever boil or freeze the specimen. Temperature variations will create sub cutaneous (under the skin) cracking.
* I have been aware of the ant hill procedure all my life but have never personally used that method or encountered any one who has used it successfully.
* Never expose specimens to excessive light. Like all items organic and inorganic they will fade and loose their luster, and if a valuable specimen their monetary value.
* Valuable museum quality collections are generally collected live. To assure the bivales were collected live it is necessary to some how display their operculum, aka "trap door." It is acceptable to use water soluble glue to attach the operculum to the shell near the opening or glue to to a waft of cotton and replace in it's natural position closing the trap door.
Tools;
Use any and all available tools to remove marine growth. Hammers, chisels, beer can openers, nut picks, dental picks and a variety of modified garage tools are often used for growth removal.
Specimen removal;
Use a germicidal soap such as "Hexisal." Germ = disease creating organism, cidal =to kill. Hexisal maybe obtained over the counter with out a script
* Bivalve (two piece shell)
Place the shell in a bottle, fill about 1/3 with germicidal soap and 2/3s with tap water. The liquid will turn milky. Place in a protected secluded area for at least 30 days or longer, depending on the size of the shell and ambient temperature.
When opening the bottle pour the contents into a metal wire stainer to drain liquids and capture the operculum. Wash thoroughly.
If a residual of the flesh remains, repeat submerging the specimen for another period of time.
Univalves (one sided shell)
Supersaturate a small house-hold sponge with germicidal soap. Place the shell in the middle of the sponge. Cover and place in a secluded area. Once again depending on size of shell and the temperature, periodically add water for moisture. If necessary replace the sponge and the hexisol.
Wash through. Display
Coating of a Sea shell
There are two methods of coating a sea shell for display;
* A good rub down with a light weight mineral oil followed by a rub down to remove the residual oil. Baby oil is often used for it's initial pleasant aroma. A draw back for using oil is that it is a dust magnet therefore requires frequent dusting.
* Hair spray is often used when shells are displayed and subject to dust accumulation. Hair spray is water soluble and can be purchased in a variety of sheens from dull to super sheen.
Welcome to the world of Conchology...
Therefore conchology is the study of sea shells; and for the last 300 to 400 years has been associated with the collection of sea shells.
It is a hobby enjoyed by many; the collecting, studying, cataloging and displaying sea shells. Many many conchology books have been written, many collections have been amassed, possibly the world's largest by the Du Ponts of the chemical family fame and fortune.
Like all professional collections value is based on condition, condition and condition with the factor of rarity as a secondary consideration. In most amateur collections value is of little importance with memories and beauty being primary. It is event that from reading the posts that all are amateur collectors.
Some thoughts to consider;
* Never ever submerge sea shells in a caustic substance such as bleach, or acids, such as muriatic or vinegar, which will destroy the natural luster and finish the specimen.
* Never ever boil or freeze the specimen. Temperature variations will create sub cutaneous (under the skin) cracking.
* I have been aware of the ant hill procedure all my life but have never personally used that method or encountered any one who has used it successfully.
* Never expose specimens to excessive light. Like all items organic and inorganic they will fade and loose their luster, and if a valuable specimen their monetary value.
* Valuable museum quality collections are generally collected live. To assure the bivales were collected live it is necessary to some how display their operculum, aka "trap door." It is acceptable to use water soluble glue to attach the operculum to the shell near the opening or glue to to a waft of cotton and replace in it's natural position closing the trap door.
Tools;
Use any and all available tools to remove marine growth. Hammers, chisels, beer can openers, nut picks, dental picks and a variety of modified garage tools are often used for growth removal.
Specimen removal;
Use a germicidal soap such as "Hexisal." Germ = disease creating organism, cidal =to kill. Hexisal maybe obtained over the counter with out a script
* Bivalve (two piece shell)
Place the shell in a bottle, fill about 1/3 with germicidal soap and 2/3s with tap water. The liquid will turn milky. Place in a protected secluded area for at least 30 days or longer, depending on the size of the shell and ambient temperature.
When opening the bottle pour the contents into a metal wire stainer to drain liquids and capture the operculum. Wash thoroughly.
If a residual of the flesh remains, repeat submerging the specimen for another period of time.
Univalves (one sided shell)
Supersaturate a small house-hold sponge with germicidal soap. Place the shell in the middle of the sponge. Cover and place in a secluded area. Once again depending on size of shell and the temperature, periodically add water for moisture. If necessary replace the sponge and the hexisol.
Wash through. Display
Coating of a Sea shell
There are two methods of coating a sea shell for display;
* A good rub down with a light weight mineral oil followed by a rub down to remove the residual oil. Baby oil is often used for it's initial pleasant aroma. A draw back for using oil is that it is a dust magnet therefore requires frequent dusting.
* Hair spray is often used when shells are displayed and subject to dust accumulation. Hair spray is water soluble and can be purchased in a variety of sheens from dull to super sheen.
Welcome to the world of Conchology...
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Scotty--My soul mate!! Iv'e been a diver 3+ years but a collector for 40. Best way to clean them is simply boiling the heck out of them. If need be, use a safety pin (bent? to carefully remove the curled up remains (don't let it break & half of it remain inside). Don't worry about the response about not taking anything live. Hey, where does one thing all the perfect specimens in all those shell shops come from anyway? Go to "Shell collecting" or "Diving vs. Shell Collecting" on this forum. I get into it from every angle with the nay-sayers. I would like to read your responses. There are so few of us around these days I almost fell off my chair when I read your post!
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The dental pic works great. The one I like best came with the edges sharpened like a knife. I also use the 50/50 Clorox-water mix. When I do not have time to work on them, I put them in double plastic bags(from the grocery store), tie the top in a knot and store them in the freezer.
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