How do you attach your tank valves to your shoulder D-rings?

[Progen]

Ah, that reminds me that I found the Stealth manual online the other day but haven't had time to go through it.

 

[DevonDiver]

View attachment 162316

Ok, this was done in a hurry with some rope, two swivel snaps and tank bands. The right tank band (not that visible in this photo) had slipped down a bit (didn't realize until after the dive) but the left one is in a comfortable height for me but how close to your body (waist) do most of you rig your tanks? As close as you can tie the knots to the swivel snaps?

The tank is well below, and removed, from your torso. Think of the center-line down the side of your torso - armpit to side of the hip. It should run along that. It looks like, at the time of the photo, the still-negative cylinder needs to be mounted higher around the belt. The connection may be a little long too (hard to see exactly from that photo.

Length of the string/line needs to correspond with the size of the bolt-snap, and then be sufficient to have the tank 'drop' down to the correct point along your body. If/when the cylinder becomes positive (ali or steel used...) it needs to drop down to a front-hip attachment and 'roll' up to that same center-line.

Here's some pictures of a student that came for training in the Stealth earlier last month:

I think the floating bungees alla stealth are also worth trying.

Out of interest - does anyone know the industrial size/designation of those Stealth bungees? I'm guessing they're commercial available for non-diving means... trying to track some down..

 

[Progen]

Actually, both of the links to the swivel snaps have slipped because they were put on in a hurry so that I could get into the pool fast. Will rig them up more securely stage tank style when I get my package in a few days time because I only have two swivel snaps now.

Because there aren't that many clear sidemount videos around, I was wondering whether there are any sidemounties who mount their tanks low. I personally prefer it close.

---------- Post added August 4th, 2013 at 05:51 PM ----------

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Length of the string/line needs to correspond with the size of the bolt-snap, and then be sufficient to have the tank 'drop' down to the correct point along your body. If/when the cylinder becomes positive (ali or steel used...) it needs to drop down to a front-hip attachment and 'roll' up to that same center-line.

...

What if the outer D-ring is as far as it'd go around my waist? I'm about 28 - 29" so don't have much space on the waist.

---------- Post added August 4th, 2013 at 05:57 PM ----------

...
Out of interest - does anyone know the industrial size/designation of those Stealth bungees? I'm guessing they're commercial available for non-diving means... trying to track some down..

If you're talking about the one with the BC, then it's 6mm according to the manual. No idea about the ones securing the tank though.

 

[DevonDiver]

What if the outer D-ring is as far as it'd go around my waist? I'm about 28 - 29" so don't have much space on the waist.

You can also look at where your clips are attached on the cylinder/s.



It's a very inter-connected relationship. There's no reason why you can't trim tanks on your center-line, regardless of waist size etc. Do check the length of your lines, do consider the size of your bolt-snaps. Experiment where you put the bolt-snaps on the 'clock-face' of the cylinder. Also, don't be constrained by using the buttplate (if supplied) etc... start the cylinder where it'll hang correctly (center-line) when negative. Move it down, so that it'll float up (center-line) when positive.

And, of course, proper length of main bungees will do an awful lot to bring the tanks up and prevent 'roll' as you move them from start location downwards...

 

[Progen]

You can also look at where your clips are attached on the cylinder/s.

Assuming that I put them on the low side, ie. with the valve knob at 6 o'clock and the clip to exit the strap at around the 1 o'clock instead of 12 o'clock mark. When the tanks get floaty, will it cause the necks to rotate or will the bungee be enough to prevent that?

 

[DevonDiver]

A proper length bungee should help prevent that - but it depends also on how your route the bungee around the cylinder valve/handle. It helps a lot if you have right/left-sided cylinders and a manifold extension/nub opposite the valve. It's harder when using regular rental cylinders, esp AL80s etc..

 

[Progen]

How I was taught was to pull the bungee and loop it around the manifold connection port. I'm currently experimenting with having the shoulder D-ring slightly around my chest instead of slightly below my shoulders. It was nice when it was below my shoulders and I could unclip the tanks and push them out comfortably but was just wondering whether there are any even better positions. Will raise the D-rings again after a few more dives if it doesn't feel right because :-

D-rings at chest level
Easier to loop around tank valves BUT
Uncomfortable when pushing out tanks
Dedicated D-ring at shoulder level for long hose 2nd stage


D-rings at shoulder level
Slightly more difficult to loop around tank valves BUT
Comfortable when tanks are out in front
Cluttered when clipping off long hose 2nd stage

The main reason why I lowered the D-rings was because I wanted to have another D-ring solely for clipping the long hose 2nd stage when not in use and perhaps to clip the double ended one when preparing the SMB for deployment.

 

[DevonDiver]

I put the shoulder D-rings just on/below my collar-bones (much lhigher than with back-mount).

 

[Progen]

I put the shoulder D-rings just on/below my collar-bones (much lhigher than with back-mount).

From the little that I know, I'd assume that would make it easier to loop around the neck valves, right? Due to there being more play in the cord around your armpit area since it's further away from the top mounting point. Where is your mounting point at the back for the cord? If it's something like the Razor 2, then I'd suppose that the angle of the bungee cord will be fairly steep which will render your D-ring rather clear. Mine's a bit cluttered for now because I have a big snap hook attached to the bungee cord. Didn't know why I put it there but I got a pair when I saw the shop having stock since you can never have enough of those.

Anyway, for the time being, I haven't settled on anything yet since I'm still hoping to do something like Lamar's ring system and give it a try before deciding what's easiest but I have a feeling I might just come back to a nice plain bungee cord. No rings. No snaps.

 

[DevonDiver]

Yes, like the Razor - a high bungee route from the upper back.

I also have the front shoulder D-rings high because it keeps deco cylinders up tighter.