How do you attach your tank valves to your shoulder D-rings?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Progen

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Divemaster
Messages
503
Reaction score
79
Location
Malaysia
# of dives
100 - 199
I've gone for the recreational sidemount course and yes, I'm hooked on the sidemount style. The rig we used was the UTD one without the fancy manifold system. Bungee cords were tied to the back and shoulder D-rings. I had difficulty and discomfort with the valves rubbing my armpits occasionally and when the tank bottoms were detached and pushed to the front.

I'm assuming that this is because I've gotten hold of the bungee cords too near to the shoulder D-rings in which case they've been pinched by being looped around the valves so there's very little give near to the shoulder D-rings but a lot towards the rear. Correct?

I didn't have time or opportunity to experiment with it as in with most courses and also because trim was nice so I decided to concentrate on the skills part first and then take the time to play around with different positions when I have my own rig which will probably be a Razor style one.

Are there any faster and easier ways of attaching the tank valves to the shoulder D-rings than just looping a bungee around them?
 
Two suggestions: add a triglide about 3-4 inches below your shoulder d-rings and tie your bungie under it with a knot, this helps move the cylinders down a bit and away from the D-Rings, second try moving your bottom clips up a bit, this can help move your cylinders down a little as well.
I think my UTD Z-Trim came with 3/8 bungie, I changed mine out to 1/4, makes a lot of difference. Adds some stretch when needed. You may need to loosen up/ add some length to your bungies a bit as well.

Sorry that was 4 suggestions. Sidemount and no time for experimenting on the perfect setup for you does not go together. That's part of fun and frustration of sidemount.
 
... Sidemount and no time for experimenting on the perfect setup for you does not go together. That's part of fun and frustration of sidemount.

Thanks for the suggestions. I was eager to get on with the course because I knew I wasn't going to get the UTD setup for myself and was more keen on getting into the water quickly since I'm an animal freak. :D
 
The rig we used was the UTD one without the fancy manifold system. Bungee cords were tied to the back and shoulder D-rings. I had difficulty and discomfort with the valves rubbing my armpits occasionally and when the tank bottoms were detached and pushed to the front. . . . Are there any faster and easier ways of attaching the tank valves to the shoulder D-rings than just looping a bungee around them?
It is pretty hard to imagine a 'faster', or for that matter easier, approach than simply looping the bungee around the cylinder valve.

I may be misunderstanding your question, but I have several thoughts. The discomfort you describe could be a function of the position of the shoulder D-rings on the harness. When you acquire your own equipment, you can 'tweak' that. The bungees may have been too tight, for you. I use bungees of different length depending on the cylinder, and rig (I do not use a continuous piece of bungee - some do).

Some people 'attach' the cylinder (top bolt snap) to the bungee itself, not directly to the shoulder D-ring. Others, who use a ring bungee, attach the bolt snap to the ring on a ring bungee, which is then attached to the shoulder D-ring in front ( and made secure with the bungee running to the back. Some people use a standard deco cylinder rigging kit, attach the top bolt snap to the shoulder D-ring, and use the bungee to pull the cylinder neck into the body / armpit. I use a loop of static line, with a bolt snap, loop the static line around the cylinder neck (then attach the first stage), clip the bolt snap to the D-ring, and use the bungee to pull the cylinder neck / valve into my armpit. PIC_0225.jpg

The beauty of SM is the opportunity to tweak it - it is a DIYer's playground. The goal is to create a streamlined rig, that is functional, comfortable, and accessible (the valve in particular). There are a number of options., It is probably unfortunate that you weren't in a position to focus a little more on the rig during the training. At least for me, that is an important part of teaching SM - having students try different rigs, and different configurations of different rigs, to give them an idea of what works for them.
 
I had difficulty and discomfort with the valves rubbing my armpits occasionally and when the tank bottoms were detached and pushed to the front.

It can make a difference how you're moving the tanks into the forwards position. Depending on the valve, hose and bungee configuration there may be an optimal method, and equally, a less optimal method that twists stuff around causing pinching etc.

Experiment with different movements to swing the tanks... vertical underneath, horizontal swing around, over-arm arch etc.

It also helps if you flex/extend your arm a little to 'push' the cylinders out in front - stretching the bungees a little and moving the valves forwards of your armpit.

I'm assuming that this is because I've gotten hold of the bungee cords too near to the shoulder D-rings in which case they've been pinched by being looped around the valves so there's very little give near to the shoulder D-rings but a lot towards the rear. Correct?

Dropping the location of the bungee attachment on the harness will have a noticeable impact on the trim of your cylinders. If you move the bungees down, then the valve will locate equally downwards.

Are there any faster and easier ways of attaching the tank valves to the shoulder D-rings than just looping a bungee around them?

You could look into the DiveRite style 'Ring Bungee' method.

DirDirect :: SIDEMOUNT DIVING :: Sidemount Accessories :: Dive Rite Nomad Ring Bungee

 
maybe you should try the Stealth Sidemount style - floating loops.
This way you can pull them (loops) down or up to the position that tank valves will be even behind your armpits, it clears up the front what I call working area and you can easily pull the tank back forward if need

Check out the pics.
xDeep Stealth Siudemount  (5).jpgxDeep Stealth Siudemount  (6).jpgxDeep Stealth Siudemount  (15).jpgxDeep Stealth Siudemount  (16).jpgsidemountcavedivingxdeep.jpg
 
Hey, thanks everyone! I'll keep reading and rereading all your posts and try them out when I manage to get the plates made up.
 
20130721_221836.jpg

This is what I've ended up with so far. A UTD air bladder copy (marked on the bag as 16lbs lift) rigged to a harness that's fitted with copies of the Razor 2's plates. Still experimenting with the bungy system which explains why they're currently only secured with cable ties. Planning to do one like the Dive Rite ring system since I've managed to salvage some 1/2" webbing off two old BCDs for the neck chokers and have gotten almost enough materials to rig up two tanks.

Sure sucks in my part of the world where you get blank stares when you ask for stainless steel swivel snap hooks and rings so everything has to be ordered online.
 
It is pretty hard to imagine a 'faster', or for that matter easier, approach than simply looping the bungee around the cylinder valve.

I may be misunderstanding your question, but I have several thoughts. The discomfort you describe could be a function of the position of the shoulder D-rings on the harness. When you acquire your own equipment, you can 'tweak' that. The bungees may have been too tight, for you. I use bungees of different length depending on the cylinder, and rig (I do not use a continuous piece of bungee - some do).

Some people 'attach' the cylinder (top bolt snap) to the bungee itself, not directly to the shoulder D-ring. Others, who use a ring bungee, attach the bolt snap to the ring on a ring bungee, which is then attached to the shoulder D-ring in front ( and made secure with the bungee running to the back. Some people use a standard deco cylinder rigging kit, attach the top bolt snap to the shoulder D-ring, and use the bungee to pull the cylinder neck into the body / armpit. I use a loop of static line, with a bolt snap, loop the static line around the cylinder neck (then attach the first stage), clip the bolt snap to the D-ring, and use the bungee to pull the cylinder neck / valve into my armpit. View attachment 156898

The beauty of SM is the opportunity to tweak it - it is a DIYer's playground. The goal is to create a streamlined rig, that is functional, comfortable, and accessible (the valve in particular). There are a number of options., It is probably unfortunate that you weren't in a position to focus a little more on the rig during the training. At least for me, that is an important part of teaching SM - having students try different rigs, and different configurations of different rigs, to give them an idea of what works for them.

With your method, is the bungee connected behind you and to the d-ring or is it a loop with both ends behind you. I understand the static bungee with a bolt snap, just trying to figure out the bungee that you pull over the tank valve.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom