Hose Lengths (Newer Diver)

[Rainer]

I've read enough posts to convince me to go to a longer hose and necklaced octo, but I have some questions I was hoping members could help me with. First of all, I am NOT a DIR diver (did not know about this until after I started and made my first purchases). Right now I have a Ranger BCD and Zeagle ZX Flathead Vi. I dive mostly shores/OW here in New England, plus Southern California. I have no interest now in cavern diving or tech diving (though in a few years I could see myself getting interested in wreck penetrations; I would of course take the necessary courses...). I do not own a canister light, nor could I imagine myself getting one in the next few years. Now for my questions:

(1) Would I be better off with a 5' hose or should I really consider a 7' hose? My concern is what to do with the extra length of a 7' given no canister light, plus the non-interest in diving in overhead environments.

(2) Would my girlfried (who is also considering making this switch) be better off in the 5' hose? She is 5'3 and I'm even more worried about the extra length for her.

(3) In either case (5' or 7'), how is the extra length routed from the first stage (i.e. what is done with the extra hose length)? Again, I will not have a canister light and will still be using my Ranger BC.

(4) How is the necklaced octo set up? Details would be most helpful. First, what length of hose should I be using for this? The standard length of hose that I have now (whatever came with my Zeagle Envoy)? Or something longer? If so, what length? Second, what material do I make the "necklace" out of? Bungee? If so, what size do you find best? Third, how do I attach the octo to this necklace? Is the necklace just a round piece of material? How does this keep the octo from falling off? Fourth, what size should the necklace be (i.e. where do I want the octo positioned once I'm wearing the necklace)?

Sorry for so many questions! I'd really like to get this all sorted before my next set of dives.

Many thanks.

 

[H2Andy]

(1) Would I be better off with a 5' hose or should I really consider a 7' hose? My concern is what to do with the extra length of a 7' given no canister light, plus the non-interest in diving in overhead environments.

the extra two feet will be nice to have if you need it, even in OW.

it's DIR to use a canister light even in OW ... so ... that said, when i dive OW i don't use a canister light and i have no trouble routing the hose and tucking the excess "bottom" of the coil into my harness.

again, DIR calls for a canister light at all times, as far as i know.

(2) Would my girlfried (who is also considering making this switch) be better off in the 5' hose? She is 5'3 and I'm even more worried about the extra length for her.

shouldn't be a problem. see above (tuck into harness).

(3) In either case (5' or 7'), how is the extra length routed from the first stage (i.e. what is done with the extra hose length)? Again, I will not have a canister light and will still be using my Ranger BC.

route under right arm, across chest, behind neck, up to mouth. tug on the hose in front. stick excess hose onto harness belt.

(4) How is the necklaced octo set up? Details would be most helpful. First, what length of hose should I be using for this?

the hose should be short ... it should come from the left post over your shoulder and rest just under your chin. you don't want excess hose flapping in the current.

Second, what material do I make the "necklace" out of? Bungee?

that's what most people around here do. a few use surgical tubing. can't comment on the tubing, but the bungee is awesome.

Third, how do I attach the octo to this necklace? Is the necklace just a round piece of material? How does this keep the octo from falling off?

it's a simple knot. let me see if i can find a picture

well, here's the best i can do for now: the backup second stage goes into the "opening" to the left. then you tighten to secure the backup.

it's very secure. it falling off is not an issue.

Fourth, what size should the necklace be (i.e. where do I want the octo positioned once I'm wearing the necklace)?

just below your chin. some people say you should be able to bite onto the backup reg without using your hands.

 

[TSandM]

I think you get all the benefit of the long hose with an easier management in a traditional BC if you go with the 5' hose. That's what my husband has done, and what our best friends have done. The hose routes from the first stage, under your right arm, up around the back of your neck and to your mouth. It sits neatly against the body. This will work for you and your girlfriend.

A 24" hose will work for the bungied octo -- it may be a little longer than optimal, but it's the length that comes standard on most primary regulators, so you almost certainly already have it.

I made my necklace out of thin bungie cord that I bought at REI. This thread has pictures and links to various ways of rigging a necklace.

I'm sure you know that it is undesirable to use an attached snorkel with a long hose configuration, because you can pull your mask off when deploying the hose. Also, you need to be careful when you gear up to make sure that your octo hose and long horse aren't twisted around one another, which is the reason we do an modified S-drill (deployment of the long hose) either before getting in the water, or shortly thereafter, to make sure that the long hose is clear of obstructions.

Have fun with it -- I certainly think it's a better configuration than the standard one.

 

[PerroneFord]

I have a couple of the bungies, and I have some tubing. I use them interchangeably. I like the tubing because it's softer. To install, just cut off the mouthpiece zip tie, take a length of bungie and put the two ends on either side of the regulator mouthpiece, and put a new ziptie on. If you want to get fancy, put a knot in each end of the bungie to keep it from slipping out too easily.

 

[rongoodman]

I made up a loop like the picture above but used a couple of small zip-ties on each end instead of the double fisherman's knot--it's a little more streamlined. The loop is snug enough to hold the octo, but if someone does grab it, it will pull free and not snap back and hit you in the face or pull off the mouthpiece.

 

[H2Andy]

double fisherman's knot

that's what the danged thing is called ... i forgot

 

[Rainer]

Thanks for all these great responses! About the primary reg, you say to pass it under the right arm, then behind my neck, and into my mouth. Does this mean (1) under my right arm, across my chest, over my left shoulder across my neck, over my right shoulder and into my mouth, or (2) under my righ arm, over my right shoulder, across my neck, over my left shoulder and into my mouth (if the latter, wouldn't the reg be upside down?)? I'm assuming (1), but please let me know. I'm also wondering about the snorkel (TSandM's post). I had read that it should be avoided with a long hose (for the reason mentioned). That said, I often find myself using the snorkel on my shore dives (often long swims out and back). I guess I could just get rid of it and start swimming on my back (it certainly makes swimming easier), but that would mean not being able to see as much on the swin in/out. Would a pocket snorkel be an option for surface swims? Thoughts?

 

[PerroneFord]

Yes to option 1. But the hose shouldn't be as wide as your shoulders. If done properly it will be about as wide as your collarbone.

Snorkel, yes a pocket one is great. I don't use one at all, but I don't have surface swims. If I did, I'd certainly use the snorkel.

 

[Rainer]

I guess my next question then is where should I go to find a 5' hose (I think I'd prefer 5' to the 7')? Do different hoses fit different regs, or are they standardized. Again, I dive a Zeagle ZX Flathead VI (oddly, looking at the Zeagle website, a 60" hose is not listed). Would the 5' hose sold on scubatoys (for $32) work (and is this a good deal)? My LDS said they could order one, but it would be $60 (seems steep).

 

[H2Andy]

the hoses are all standard, just make sure you let them know what it's for (i.e. a regulator)

$30-ish is about right; don't forget you pay for shipping too