Hope Page inspired double hose mouthpiece

[Topcat414]

We have a similar design we’ve tested and been selling for about two years now at diverdowndhr.com. We’ve made some adjustments to the hope page to reduce number of parts and to change the threads so they don’t strip as easy as the HP. Also it’s been sized to fit gloved hands and allow allow hose adjustments while dive to remove hose twist real-time.

That can come in many colors and can mix and match.

We have thousands of dive on them and the lead prototype has 350 hours in fresh and salt water with zero issues. Material and 3D printing process is important. FDM is it the best approach for durability as it can unwind overtime or with stress field applied axiale to the layering. Early prototypes had some of these failures. But at higher temps and adjusted feed rates with the correct filament fdm can work acceptably. Do not use PLA, it’s a corn starch based plastic and in UV and water over time it will degrade (in 20-30 dives not in instantly).

 

[James79]

View attachment 578554 We have a similar design we’ve tested and been selling for about two years now at diverdowndhr.com. We’ve made some adjustments to the hope page to reduce number of parts and to change the threads so they don’t strip as easy as the HP. Also it’s been sized to fit clover hands and allow allow hose adjustments while dive to remove hose twist real-time.

That can come in many colors and can mix and match.

View attachment 578554

W shave thousands of dive on them and the lead prototype has 350 hours in fresh and salt water with zero issues. Material and 3D printing process is important. FDM is it the best approach for durability as it can unwind overtime or with stress field applied axiale to the layering. Early prototypes had some of these failures. But at higher temps and adjusted feed rates with the correct filament fdm can work acceptably. Do not use PLA, it’s a corn starch based plastic and in UV and water over time it will degrade (in 20-30 dives not in instantly).

Well, I knew I was re-inventing the wheel, but I didn't realize someone else had beat me to it! It is interesting how similar it ended up (same problem leads to very similar solutions). I appreciate the heads up on materials selection. I'm using ABS, and have had good success with it on things like BCD flanges.
Respectfully
James

 

[Topcat414]

My philosophy on this is a little different that Herman's /Louis on the VDH DSV. We have worked to solve different problems. My Huracan mouth piece is designed to have as few of parts and seals as possible and to make it easy adjust underwater to reduce jaw fatigue. They have attacked the issue of free flow on the surface using rebreather concepts.

If people are interested in a mouth piece we have a special going until April 15th for $175 plus $20 for silicone mushrooms (maintenance free). www.diverdowndhr.com or call us at 419-534-0714

 

[James79]

So, finally got it in the pool today.... tried 2 different methods of sealing the wagon flanges to the body (flat EVA foam seal, and BAO (Big A** O-ring)), and still had a slow seep of water into the mouthpiece. I think it is from print layer lines on the mouthpiece flange of the main body. Going to do some post processing (sanding) to smooth that area and check again. Over all, though, very use-able and promising once I get that seep nailed down.

 

[Topcat414]

if your using the FDM process you can get tighter walls if:

you increase the wall thickness a few mm's
use 100% fill and in a diagonal cross hatch
increase flow rate and temperature
slow down print speed on the shell courses.

if you use abs, you can vapor polish. Or, you can clear the outside surfaces with clear finger nail polish if it material is not ABS or does not melt with acetone. But even a clear coat spray will work.

my $0.02

 

[James79]

if your using the FDM process you can get tighter walls if:

you increase the wall thickness a few mm's
use 100% fill and in a diagonal cross hatch
increase flow rate and temperature
slow down print speed on the shell courses.

if you use abs, you can vapor polish. Or, you can clear the outside surfaces with clear finger nail polish if it material is not ABS or does not melt with acetone. But even a clear coat spray will work.

my $0.02

For functional in water pieces, I use 100% infill ABS. I have room temp. vapor smoothed before, but don't have a good setup for it at the moment. I'm going to start with sanding, and go from there.

 

[scrane]

What is the functional difference between the Hope-Page and newer DH mouthpieces incorporating input and output valves? Is it just the ability to easily adjust mouthpiece angle? Although, this in itself is an important improvement, IMO.

 

[Perryed]

Best thing about these is the ability to change the mouthpiece. The one on my DAAM is not the most mouth friendly thing.

 

[James79]

What is the functional difference between the Hope-Page and newer DH mouthpieces incorporating input and output valves? Is it just the ability to easily adjust mouthpiece angle? Although, this in itself is an important improvement, IMO.

For my project it's the angle, the mouthpiece itself (as @Perryed stated), and just the challenge of doing it! I reinvent the hell out of some wheels! lol
Respectfully,
James

 

[Topcat414]

What is the functional difference between the Hope-Page and newer DH mouthpieces incorporating input and output valves? Is it just the ability to easily adjust mouthpiece angle? Although, this in itself is an important improvement, IMO.

I completely agree with James79. The major improvement is two fold 1. Can use your own mouth piece and 2. You can adjust hose twist out and eliminate jaw fatigue.

the DSV takes away the need to turn the mouthpiece downward to stop free flow on the surface when you lean back.