Hollis SMS 50 - Ditch the bungees?

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I have never had that problem. Wonder why. I have a hundred or so salt water AL dives with old school bungees and no issues. Could it be the type valves that allow it to happen? I never weight tanks. Maybe it is where I have the rear leash placed?

Are you re-clipping (forward) the tank tails to hold them down?

I drop the bungie over the valve knob which is (obviously) pointing laterally out from my armpit. The rear clip on the tanks was clocked about 170deg from the valve knob. As the tanks get lighter they wanted to roll up and this axial rotation oriented the valve knob up at a ~45deg angle. This allowed the bungie to intermittently slip off the tank knobs. There was really no way I could figure out to clock the tail clips so the knobs would face out when the tank was both full and empty.

I eventually decided I didn't like moving the tail clips at all (I'm lazy). And I needed more lead than I thought in a drysuit; so I added lead to the al80s to keep the tails down. The only thing which bugged me is that the lead has to be on the bottom side of the tank tail strap. Any other clocking of the lead allows the tank to roll up, go out of trim, and continue to mess with the neck bungie.

I don't dive Al80s that often so maybe in time I'd have figured out a tail clip clocking which avoid the roll up. I love the old skool neck bungies with steel tanks, they are just less nice with al80s. If you have any pictures of your tail clips and their orientation that would be swell.
 
This allowed the bungie to intermittently slip off the tank knobs....

Go for a lighter, stretchier bungee... then 'double-wrap' the valves. I tried this (worked) with a continous bungee made from dual 3mm. Basically, tie the 3mm bungee in a big loop and thread bolt-snaps at the end.

It's very pliable. You can disengage the bolt snap and actually wrap it around the tank neck, then the valve handle. It's very secure. Hard to describe the process...I'll need to make a quick video...
 
Go for a lighter, stretchier bungee... then 'double-wrap' the valves. I tried this (worked) with a continous bungee made from dual 3mm. Basically, tie the 3mm bungee in a big loop and thread bolt-snaps at the end.

It's very pliable. You can disengage the bolt snap and actually wrap it around the tank neck, then the valve handle. It's very secure. Hard to describe the process...I'll need to make a quick video...


Interested in your "wrapping approach" but I don't like screwing with stuff this much honestly.

Its not my primary warm water rig, I was just diving it because the shop lacked more doubles. Its setup for steel tanks and cold(er) water and I don't really want to disassemble and readjust the neck bungies coming and going.
 
You could do the same thing with indie bungees. Use quick-links via the 'old school' mount. Swap in heavier bungees for steel/cold water, swap in lighter bungees for AL/warm etc.

End of the day... your tanks shouldn't drop out of your bungees. If they do, then there's a configuration issue. The benefit of good initial instruction is to avoid fighting those fires - so any experimentation is about customization, not fault-rectification.

How tight/loose are the bungees?
 
The loop is about ~11" from knot to knot. Swapping in different bungie requires unknotting what is there and that stuff is pulled tight to avoid it slipping with larger steel tanks. Nevermind that I have no idea when I might use al80s in warmer water anyway.

Your extra looping sounds all well and good for you, but locally I need to be able to efficiently connect and disconnect the bungie with drygloves on to be able to walk between sumps. The current thicker loops stay on steels (which never roll up as the psi changes) just fine.
 
I found the bungees a pain; I use a short tank neck clipand did dive until I found the sweet spot for comfort and location. I do use dumptank weight pockets and attach to the tank bands as I found at the end of adive, deploying a SMB I had some issues. After that I am good to go. I thinkit's a matter of what works for the individual
 
I just got back from a sidemount class with my new Hollis SMS50, and the first thing I did was head for the hardware store to find a solution to those blessed bungees Hollis supplies. With those big bolt clips it takes an Act of God to get them around the tank valve. I even had to help my instructor get his clipped. Haven't tried it yet, but the plan is to remove both of the Hollis bungees, and run a long, continuous bungie through the harness. One end (left tank) will have a permanent loop in it I can slip over the tank valve. Probably put a slip knot in it so it can be increased in size to fit over the first stage. At the other end, I'll put another permanent loop, but make it so it ends at sholder level. Will then run a strap with buckle through this. The plan is to then simply loop the strap over the tank valve and then pull it tight. My thought is I won't loose the snugness the bungee gives, but it will sure be a lot easier to attach. Plus won't have this humongus set of hardware cluttering my tanks.

And while we're at it, does anyone know what in ##!!#***#! Hollis chose to put the attachment point for the all too short inflator hose at the wrong end of the BC bladder??? Why not at the top of the BC like everyone else, so you can dump air by simply raising the hose above shoulder level? It's impossible, without turning over on your back and somehow getting the inflator hose between your legs to dump air that way, leaving you only with the dump valve in the bottom corner. When I'm cave diving I want TWO reliable ways to dump air if need be. I wrote Hollis about this, but they won't answer.
 
I even had to help my instructor get his clipped.

Not a good sign...

...won't have this humongus set of hardware cluttering my tanks.

Not sure exactly what you're referring to? The principle is to have a pretty slick rig - do you have a picture to illustrate the problem you're having thus far??

does anyone know what in ##!!#***#! Hollis chose to put the attachment point for the all too short inflator hose at the wrong end of the BC bladder???

Because:

1) It provides optimal LP hose routing from a sidemounted tank.

2) In overhead environment diving, it provides greater physical protection of the LPI elbow from abrasion/damage.

It isn't a case that the Hollis LPI hose is too short, but there is an issue with it having a lack of flexibility (to extend for oral inflation). I recommend a swap-out towards a more pliable hose. I use the Halcyon-type (oval cross-section) hoses on all of my sidemount rigs. It works exceptionally well.

Why not at the top of the BC like everyone else,...

Actually, there are a great number of sidemount BCDs configured with low-to-high inflators. Google the 'Razor2', 'Stealth 2.0' or 'UTD Z' for more information. Of those that do offer a high-to-low inflator, most permit alternative connection (swap out with hip pull-dump).

...so you can dump air by simply raising the hose above shoulder level?

There is an assumption that the sidemount diver would be spending the majority of their time in proper horizontal trim - where a shoulder-mounted inflator would be counter-productive to stable and quick air release. Trim and positioning being critical attributes taught on most, if not all, sidemount courses.

It's impossible, without turning over on your back and somehow getting the inflator hose between your legs...

Or just roll very slightly to the side. If your instructor hasn't trained you on this, then you should consider getting further advice/rectification on your approach. (hint: he should have trained you on this...)

When I'm cave diving I want TWO reliable ways to dump air if need be.

I'll take a stab-in-the-dark here... but you're not yet cave trained are you?
 
I'm pretty sure his instructor didn't know, and still doesn't know what he/she is doing. Probably one of those that tried it for four dives and decided that they knew enough to teach it. Finding an experienced instructor would have helped you work through or avoid these problems.
 
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