If you take the Halcyon Cinch system route, be aware that it will only work on Halcyon BPs. It's ok, I use the H-Cinch on Singles. Here's where the pain is. If you use the same Halcyon Backplate Cinch system for Doubles, you will have a problem. The Cinch hardware lifts the BP by several mm off of the Doubles and there may not be enough thread on the doubles bolt to screw the wing nut and lock the BP. You will need a bolt extender. Halcyon provides the bolt extender but only for the thin bolts. If you're renting doubles (Europe and Asia) and it comes with thicker bolts, the Halcyon bolt extender won't work. Yes you can adjust the bolt length on the doubles but it's another step.
Hogarthian Adjustable Shoulder Strap Solution
- Thread starter time2sail
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Ontwreckdiver
Contributor
Have a look at the Sub Gravity Adjustable Harness System. It's simple and all the hardware is stainless steel.
Adjustable Harness System - Subgravity
Adjustable Harness System - Subgravity
Made my own adjustable harness, somewhat similar to the high dollar cinch system. Really like it.
Wow, twice as much as the Golem Gear G2. You to get the nice d-rings on the lower adjustable shoulder-strap ends, but it doesn't look like you get the waist buckle.
Hoag
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One of the things that held me back from going the BPW route was the perception of a lack of adjustability. I was at a LDS one day and the guy there showed me how he had his set up. I bought a 2nd hand plate a wing & some webbing and set mine up like his and after some minor tweaking all I can say is that it works slick! It is not in the truest sense of the word "Hogarthian" (although, considering that my last name actually is Hogarth, I guess the argument could be made that any way I rig it would be "Hogarthian".)
Anyways, notwithstanding my name, here is how I have mine rigged. It starts at the shoulders the same way you would with any BPW.
The difference is that instead of running the main webbing through the bottom of the Back Plate, I have taken another piece of webbing about 12-18 inches long (in my case, this is the black webbing) and threaded that through the Back Plate, put a D-Ring on it and secured it with a tri-glide. I then ran my main webbing through the D-Ring from behind.
The D-Ring allows the main webbing to move freely through it and it can instantly either be snugged as tight as needed or loosened as much as needed depending on if you are getting into it (loosen it off) or getting ready to dive (pull it nice & snug).
This may not be an ideal solution for everybody, but for me, It works very well. Admittedly, it does introduce two potential points of failure that otherwise wouldn't be there, but I can get in and out of it just as fast as someone with a BCD that has shoulder clips.
I don't know if this will meet your needs or not, but I thought that I would share.
Anyways, notwithstanding my name, here is how I have mine rigged. It starts at the shoulders the same way you would with any BPW.
The difference is that instead of running the main webbing through the bottom of the Back Plate, I have taken another piece of webbing about 12-18 inches long (in my case, this is the black webbing) and threaded that through the Back Plate, put a D-Ring on it and secured it with a tri-glide. I then ran my main webbing through the D-Ring from behind.
The D-Ring allows the main webbing to move freely through it and it can instantly either be snugged as tight as needed or loosened as much as needed depending on if you are getting into it (loosen it off) or getting ready to dive (pull it nice & snug).
This may not be an ideal solution for everybody, but for me, It works very well. Admittedly, it does introduce two potential points of failure that otherwise wouldn't be there, but I can get in and out of it just as fast as someone with a BCD that has shoulder clips.
I don't know if this will meet your needs or not, but I thought that I would share.
IMHO, the ideal adjustment has enough resistance at the lower guides so the weight doesn't pull all the slack to the shoulder straps. It doesn't matter much if you always don the rig with all of the weight of the cylinders supported by a bench but really helps when standing and putting the tank(s) on.
In any case, adjusting this way is much simpler than strap length adjustment on both shoulders. The concept goes back to the 1960s backpacks.
In any case, adjusting this way is much simpler than strap length adjustment on both shoulders. The concept goes back to the 1960s backpacks.
OP
time2sail
Registered
Just as expected, there are a lot of experienced members replying with excellent tried and true solutions!
My wife (and I) have enjoyed reading the replies and really appreciate the depth of knowledge on this forum. Hoping she’ll be setting up her own account shortly in order to post “first hand” questions and responses. I know you all will welcome her just as you do every new member.
In the mean time she looks forward to trying the numerous, simple solutions presented and hopes to provide feedback from her perspective.
Thank you!
My wife (and I) have enjoyed reading the replies and really appreciate the depth of knowledge on this forum. Hoping she’ll be setting up her own account shortly in order to post “first hand” questions and responses. I know you all will welcome her just as you do every new member.
In the mean time she looks forward to trying the numerous, simple solutions presented and hopes to provide feedback from her perspective.
Thank you!
I find the adjusting, if ever needed, between different suites, simple. You just move the triglides (where the webbing go from sholderstrap to waistband) one cm or two, takes less than a minute. If you like to you can mark different setting with a colored sewing thread.
Agir Harpa, if you are afraid that the shoulder strap will be to tight, just add a triglide.
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