HOG D1, can't unscrew the environmental cap

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JohnN

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I'm giving my HOG regs a long overdue service (and yes I have a card that says I was trained to do this) and can't get the environmental cap dislodged from the diaphragm cap. I've soaked the pair for probably 2 hours in the heated ultrasonic cleaner, I've tried putting the pair in the freezer, I've even created new swear words for the procedure.

Nothing seems to work. Plan "B" is to leave the two bonded together and hope the IP is going to be close-enough without me having to make any adjustments.

The only thing I haven't tried is removing the environmental seal to expose the inside, but then plan "B" would no longer be possible.

Any sage advice out there?
 
If they are corroded together I definitely wouldnt call the reg serviced until they are dismantled and cleaned.

Just stick the body of the reg in a vice with the environmental cap sticking up. Vice doesn't have to be tight, it is just to stop the body from turning (which the din/yoke post will make sure of). Make sure you have a proper fitting C spanner. If you can't get it by hand add an extension onto the C spanner, it will come free
 
It does you no good immediately, but this is a tool in my toolbox:


1678553060805.png
 
I have had to go days of repeated cycles to release messes from lack of maintenance...
 
It does you no good immediately, but this is a tool in my toolbox:


View attachment 773952
Highly recommend something like this. Even though it's not the greatest design because it only gives you the option to use one pin.
I made several captive spanners for the regs after encountering this issue on regs that had not been properly rinsed and the envirocap removed, threads wiped, and a bit of tribolube applied to them. Mine are able to put the pins in on three sides so that if necessary I can install a pin opposite each other.
I'm not making these anymore because it's kind of a pain in the ass to do. Cut, smooth, drill, tap, etc.
I just don't want to take the time. But I made them for myself and the shop that is taking over my service business. I was surprised that someone else didn't make them this way.
I could probably charge $30 bucks a piece for the ones I made. But again, I have other things going on and I don't want to start something.
Then the key is steady even pressure on the wrench. Trying to jar it loose by smacking it with your hand or a rubber mallet will just tear the holes out. I have actually put a 24 inch crescent wrench on mine using it with steady even pressure and did no damage to the reg.
I use two of them. One to hold the diaphragm clamp clamped in a vise, and the other on the cap. If necessary with a crescent wrench on it.
I don't know if every instructor stressed the importance of rinsing and cleaning the threads, especially with saltwater use, but I did.
Some regs like the Oceanics used a plastic cap. So you didn't get the "welding" effect that corrosion achieves.
 

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If they are corroded together I definitely wouldnt call the reg serviced until they are dismantled and cleaned.

Just stick the body of the reg in a vice with the environmental cap sticking up. Vice doesn't have to be tight, it is just to stop the body from turning (which the din/yoke post will make sure of). Make sure you have a proper fitting C spanner. If you can't get it by hand add an extension onto the C spanner, it will come free
Do not put the body in the vise. That won't do any good on the HOG regs because the cap is not screwed onto the body. It's screwed onto the diaphragm clamp and the clamp is screwed onto the body.
And you never clamp a body in a vise. You install a 1st stage handle and clamp that in the vise. If the thing is really frozen, to keep the body from turning, you'd need to clamp the vise tight enough to risk damage to the body.
 
I'm giving my HOG regs a long overdue service (and yes I have a card that says I was trained to do this) and can't get the environmental cap dislodged from the diaphragm cap. I've soaked the pair for probably 2 hours in the heated ultrasonic cleaner, I've tried putting the pair in the freezer, I've even created new swear words for the procedure.

Nothing seems to work. Plan "B" is to leave the two bonded together and hope the IP is going to be close-enough without me having to make any adjustments.

The only thing I haven't tried is removing the environmental seal to expose the inside, but then plan "B" would no longer be possible.

Any sage advice out there?
I can pretty much guarantee that the IP will not be close enough to not have to make adjustments. New diaphragm and washer? Nope, I'd be shocked if it was even close to being correct.
 

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