Hi Kiwibird! I have the same question as Ghost.. I'm very new to this, but very excited to try my GPH3B next week (cold waters, around 15-20 meters, headstrap..). Having read the thread, it is still not clear to me what the best option is for a bit deeper waters, 1080 x 30fps or 760 x 60fps..
I see 1080 * 60 is mentioned a few times, but I don't have this option..?
Whilst I'm here..
- Do you usually slow down the pace of the video in the editing tool..? I have Edius already, anyone used this?
- For whitebalance.. what's the deal here. As mentioned, I will mostly dive in colder and medio deep (10-20 meters).. What are the options for changing the white balance? Do I have to use protune?..
Look forward to hearing from the more experienced ones!!
Howdy..!
I'm currently playing with both my 'old' GoPro2 and my friends GoPro3BE to see if its worth me upgrading...
We both have PolarPro Red Filters...
Below is from my own usage (and what I've read)
If you valve your spare time, don't bother with RAW or Protune and go straight for a filter (be it a nice SRP one or a cheap(er) PolarPro).
If you do use RAW/Protune - Everything has to be run through the CineForm program first before you can start editing with your desired editing program.
The results I get straight out my GoPro2 (with filter) I'm well happy with, compared to when I had tested the cameras side by side (with the GoPro3 set to Protune / RAW without a filter) - The GoPro3 also produces excellent footage with a filter with Protune OFF.
Protune footage has no noise compression applied, so it may look looks worse (and flatter) out the camera, than non-protune footage, but if you have the time with the CineForm program, it will produce better results.
Protune will eat up a lot more SD space (due to the high bandwidth) - so in the long run taking up more storage..
60fps vs 30fps.... 60fps DOES look better - but what is your target media? Vimeo / Youtube?
These are only 30FPS (max) anyway, so even though 60fps looks great on your PC, someone viewing it online will only see 30fps. (So why waste the space, both on your SD card and also when you copy it to your PC...?)
Also, 30fps - the sensor is getting twice as much light per frame than filming at 60fps, so underwater you are giving your sensor a bit more of a chance to grab as much of the ambient light as possible.
Back to filters... a common misconception is that a Red filter will ADD the red back in, this is incorrect... all its doing is REMOVING Green and Blue, to try and balance the RGB values... this, you will have problems with, if you start heading to past 30m as the sensor already struggling to suck up all the available light, and you go and stick a filter on it, to stop even more... my eariler videos from 30-40m are awful as I left the filter on, yes the colours are better, but the video is very dark (and noisy) as the sensor is trying to compensate for the lack of light, so increasing the Gain (ISO).
My favourite setting is to record in 1080p30, with a Filter and AutoWB and once I've finished 'editign' upload to 720p30, as if I've done any stabilisation on the 1080 footage or cropping, the loss of clarity will be minimised once its reduced to 720p30.
Sorry for the rambling! Hope I make sense!